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Just build your track and only open it to your family and closest friends. Make sure the property grounds are guarded and there is only one point of entry/exit. At that point, you should use "no tresspassing" and "ride at own risk owner assumes no liability" signs. These signs may be your only real chance of winning a battle in...

I think that's one thing we have better than you guys in socal. sure you guys have lots of nice tracks, but you have to pay every time to go ride them. I have 5 tracks within 30 minutes of me that are on friends' property. None of us charge anyone to ride. Instead we swap track days and anyone...

RANDYS.... Once you get out of Cali, it's all interstate! We made the trip from our location to Riverside in about 24 hours. We had 3 drivers so we only stopped for food and gas. Pretty boring drive until we hit the Rockies and actually had some nice scenery to look at.

View Larger Map Driving Directions This is our track. The large track is our natural terrain MX track. The full loop is 3.1 miles. We have some cuts in it because we usually section it off into 1/3's, this way we can ride one section until it's beat while we are prepping the next section and then just switch to...

I've used that method a couple of times in extreme cases...and yes it does work good when all else fails. The idea behind it is the pressure the nut applies through the threaded rod pulls the SA bolt. You are effectively increasing your force because that side is pulling and your hammer swing is pushing.

Buy an OEM service manual. It gives you a very good time table of when and how to service all parts. You will want it in the long run.

craftsman units work good. best bang for the buck for the do it yourself mechanic. I have been using one for the last 7 years w/o any problems.

You will need to puller to get it off even if you can remove the nut. you can try using a bridge bearing puller by putting the fingers on the backside of the magnetio and pushing on the crank end.

I would rather see a company like suzuki offer factory support to 2 or 3 satelite teams and pull out their factory rig and stop doing what they are doing now. If they really want to talk about throwing money down the drain why would they haul around a factory rig with only Metty who they know will probably not...

It's weird that the valves have such large gaps. Usually when valve stuff starts to wear they tighten up. I've seen alot of bikes that have no clearance on the intake valves and the owner has to bump start the bike to get it going. It sounds like the previous owner (or mechanic) just did a poor job of shimming...

Yea it sure would suck to have to put down the pressure washer wand and do a little bit of hand scrubbing

That particular cylinder is pretty good stock. I've done 2. The first one I did, I removed material on the exhaust port and also in the webbing. I matched the case webbing (I guess some people call this case ports) to the cylinder. I polished everything smooth on the exhaust port. The webbings were left with a slight "dimple" finish...

I know of Jerry and Junior. I do all my work myself though so i can't personally vouch for what they do. I've not heard many bad things about them. They are good local builders with prices to match. It is probably burning oil because you have worn piston rings or your valve seals are bad. You might consider taking...

http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/detail.ex?sku=3199321&ucst=t

For the life of me I can't remember the name of the stuff I used was. Errrrr....thats probably going to bug me all day now.

So knowing that it burns oil, are you checking the oil level and adding oil after every ride? If you run the engine oil low, it will cause the enginer to run hotter than normal. but in 35 degree weather, the engine should never be hot if your cooling system is working properly. The puffs of white smoke tell me...

Solid bike all around. Not a magazine shootout winner but performs well. Engines are bulletproof if they've been cared for. Good suspension. Give it a good look over when you get it and do some maintence if it needs it. Check the valves and do a compression test.

I think you're to the point where you need to get it into a large shop press and start doing some real pushing on it. It seems like nothing else has worked and you've tried almost every trick in the book. My only other suggestion is to try a commercial grade rust dissolver. I can't remember a specific name, but...