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Valves lengthen as they wear, decreasing clearance. The one at .18 is the least of your worries, it is wearing towards .17, not .19. I would leave things alone until one is below a minimum clearance.

The opinions of others in this thread are not wrong, only you can decide what is right for you. My .02: Every new bike I had felt slower on the track than it did in my yard, and even slower once I got used to it- subconsciously putting my weight where it needed to be and using the throttle in...

Those of you with clearance issues, is there an aversion to running a narrow X ring such as the DID ERVT which I think replaced the VT2? (Other than price). I ask because I am considering going this route with steel sprockets after always having run non-sealed with aluminum. I have a CRF 450 and if there are clearance issues...

You don't have to lay it all the way down, just lean it over until fuel starts coming out of the carb drain hoses- once you get to around 45 degrees you should be able to see it, just hold it there until it stops. Whatever side you are standing on, just lean it towards you. Make sure the gas...

Try turning the fuel off, then lean the bike over at an angle until you see fuel draining out of the hoses. It will take around ten seconds for all of the fuel below the fuel switch to drain out. Kick it a few times to push anything out of the top. Then turn the fuel back on and go...

YouTube search "dirt bike front axle alignment." There is an order in which you have to tighten everything down, compressing the forks a few times while one side is still floating on the axle, to make sure the forks are straight up and down. If you do not follow this process, you may be bringing the bottom of the forks...

I'm assuming yz250 2 stroke. Which yamalube are you using? They make all different viscosities/applications, you just want to make sure it is one best suited for your transmission. Maxima MTL is a proven one for two stroke bottom ends if you want to try something else in attempt to isolate the issue, but the correct yamalube is not your...

It surprises me that an aftermarket company hasn't made a switch that mimics the functionality of the stock one but with a more robust waterproof casing, direct replacement plug in as the stock does. It seems like they would sell a few.

If you have the resources, my recommendation would be to just replace everything. I had something similar happen but with a brake. I tried replacing just the seals first, got it to hold pressure in the shop, but it blew under racing conditions. Then tried a few more parts- seals, piston, same thing, eventually lost pressure. It wasn't until I...

The edge of the brake pad that points to the rear of the bike gets dulled by being the first point of contact that the spinning rotor, and any debris on it, makes with the brake pad. The front of the brake pad remains sharp due to just being the point where the rotor exits the pad. This results in...

The most accurate way would be to remove the bottom shock bolt and pick the rear wheel up (ratchet strap around subframe to lift rear wheel helps) so that the rear axle and swingarm bolt are straight across from each other. This is the point at which your chain is most extended. Set it moderately tight at this point, reinstall...

If you bent your fender, that can give the illusion that everything else is out of line. I've done the same thing, lined everything else back up but because the fender was tweaked it made the whole front end look off. Plastic is hard to get straight once it is bent, usually takes heat and nearly impossible to get perfect...

Do yourself a favor and run your eyes along your exhaust from the cylinder back, make sure no wires/hoses/etc are too close to it to make sure the burning smell isn't anything that it is not supposed to be. It is not a bad idea to zip tie wires up and away. If something was accidentally routed incorrectly and gets...

Check all motor mounts and make sure they are torqued to spec. If loose, that might be a cause. An inexpensive thing to try would be drilling into a soft metal stock to make washers to be placed between the mounts which I've heard some guys use to absorb vibration. More expensive would be handlebar inserts, and then having the...

KTMs come stock with lock-on grips, where the right side grip is molded to the tube. If you want to keep going with lock on grips, then yes, the right side grip/throttle tube is replaced as one unit. If you want to go with the non-lock on style, motion pro or a number of others probably make a throttle tube...

Nothing is wrong. Your bike will not roll like it is in neutral when in gear with clutch. Until hot oil gets in between the plates, usually from riding a few laps on a track at full whack, the plates might stick to each other and cause a stall at low rpm, i.e. when putting it into gear from neutral...

From the manual for my 08: "Install the cover by tightening the six cover bolts in a crisscross pattern in two or three steps to the specified torque: 7 ft lb/10nm/1 kgf/m.