Any ever get their suspension done and notice no difference?

I'm a firm believer in the placebo effect playing a big role in the average riders perception of revalved suspension.

If you're having a specific problem with your suspension then I believe that you can make it better working with a suspension tuner. If you're just having it revalved but don't really have a direction you want to go other than "better" or "plusher", I feel like it can be a huge waste of money.

The 07 Rmz250 had decent valving stock but had light fork springs. So, if anything you would notice it riding higher in the travel and possibly a better ride. Depends on speed and terrain. Depending on the year of the RM250, it had a really good shock setting from 05-08. The fork similar to the RMZ of that time but some years used a steel spring tube. I prefer the RMZ cartridge from 07-12. I like race tech gold valves in these forks over the stock mid valve. It is limited in stock design because of the spring and check plate, which basically limits it to 20 and 17mm shims. The gold valve will make it like a kyb or current showa design. If you never adjusted suspension it’s not really fair to say there wasn’t a change, as there isn’t a relative comparison other than when the suspension was sent off. The two bikes you mentioned were not bad bikes in stock setting. Many KTM’s you can difference as their settings and design can be improved upon easily. I feel Hondas from present, all the way back to the 2000’s were really chassis sensitive based on the suspension settings. Rider and terrain can be subjective of suspension performance.

I agree. I was just talking to a friend about this. On my current bike ('21 YZ250F) I really don't have an issue with it at all. I tried a few different settings (my suspension guy did it at the races when I first got it.) I got it where I liked it and I honestly don't know what more I would ask for. I don't think a re-valve would do anything positive, but I could be wrong. Regardless, I would be afraid to spend the money to try it. Seems like a gamble. 

That being said, I've had plenty of bikes where I did feel a night/day difference. But I have to be able to identify what I don't like. Getting my '17 FC350 done was night/day. Another bike I really struggled with was my '10 YZ250F. Once that was dialed in (I had a lot done to that bike) it went from almost un-rideable to 1 of my favorite bikes (chassis-wise.) Everyone is different. Some guys feel every little thing and are particular. I am like that. Other guys don't and they can hop on anything and just ride. I can't. So maybe you are just 1 of those dudes, rmracer289? If so, I envy that, in a way lol.

You sound a lot like me (although im sure im much slower) - as long as the bars and levers are in a position I like - I can't tell any difference in "settings". I've rode with a flat a few times before I realized it was actually flat, I know someone could completely mess around with my suspension and I would have no idea.

If you aren't good enough to notice much of difference between clicker settings its going to be a waste, especially if you dont have any specific issues you are trying to resolve and can articulate that to a competent suspension tuner. 

Heavier springs requires more damping, lighter springs require less damping so if you are going more than a rate or two up or down on your spring weights because you are lighter or heavier than average then a revalve can bring your clicker settings back into the middle of the adjustment range VS trying to run the clickers very open or very closed and not having enough adjustment to work within the sweet spot. 

The correct spring rates and SETTING YOUR DAMN SAG will have the biggest effect on anything. 

I've never had it be the same, but I have had it get worse than it was. 

Wanna see a huge difference?  Send your stuff out to FCR in East Palestine Ohio.  The difference you'll see is amazing! 

The difference is that they'll refuse to send your stuff back to you and you'll be without any suspension...anyone will be able to distinguish THAT diffference. 

https://www.facebook.com/jake.wright.31521/posts/pfbid022bm5JAnmQFBvorU…

I think another user on here (Paging Yeti) had an issue with another pro action dealer. They straight up lied to his face about the work they did, then a local tuner tore it apart and showed him exactly what the problem was. I've never used any of these big name companies, but I've heard nothing but good things about Factory Connection. I'm sure if you explain to them what it is you want done they will happily do it. But to answer your question, no. I've had bikes that were valved better than others stock but I've never NOT been stoked after getting a valving change. Best modification you can do to any bike especially if you race in my opinion. 

I had a guy well known in socal do my 2002 cr250 stuff and I hardly noticed a difference from stock ...I was disappointed 

MX-Tech. Jeremy's great and very knowledgeable. But I've had a bike or 2 come back that weren't lucky kit's or Blackjacks that I couldn't tell a difference. Had to have them worked over again. If I was gonna complain it would be about the fact that they give no guidance, clicker or sag settings for their setups. Literally they tell you just set the clickers at the middle and work it out from their. I didn't just spend 1k-2k on suspension work to get it back and be told here u go figure it out from here.

I had an '18 KTM 150xcw that I raced enduro/hare scramble.  I rode MX track for fun because most of the CO hare scrambles use the local MX track and so you'd better be familiar with your bike.  Stock, that bike was extremely unpredictable in the air... one time it would be nose high, the next time nose down.  I was riding it back to back with a '16 KX250f and '05 KX125, neither of which gave me the least bit of trouble.  Sent the suspension off to Kreft and my first ride was on a MX track.  It was a dramatic difference.  Bike was level in the air and handled everything just great. After the first lap, I was jumping everything I was jumping on the two MX bikes. 

After awhile, I started noticing some quirks like sloppy steering and I even posted about here and got some good advice.  I should've messed with the rear more, esp the high speed compression but I just moved on to a different bike (my son's '19 150sx which handles FAR better for me).   I felt like the PDS suspension was very critical of spring rate and being a smaller shock may have faded faster because I noticed that the handling got worse toward the end of a long enduro. Whatever. 

So.... in that case, suspension work made a significant difference.  But all my other bikes are stock. 

I had stiffer springs installed (no revalve) and then set my sag (could finally get it where I wanted it) and left every clicker setting the same. The bike was practically unridable . I had to add rebound damping front and back and go 5 clucks softer on compression on the forks, - otherwise the were too stiff and the front would push, I added a tooth to the rear sprocket too, which will move the back tire forward, reducing weight on the front, Now it's better than before the spring change, I suspect that if you got new valving and springs done at the same time the valving compensated for the spring change, leaving it similar to before but with both ends riding slightly higher but with the overall balance basically the same, I find it's the balance that affects handling so that's what you notice - especially if the suspension was working fairly well to begin with, I'm slow and can definitely notice when the chassis balance is off, 

On dirt, it isnt easy to tell, unless you really know what you are doing, but we have done Supermoto stuff and its night and day , even set up can gain you 2 secs a lap easily. 

Unless you specifically have a problem, you should probably just do a rebuild refresh on the stock stuff and ride it. I’m not saying you’re lying or anything but I have no idea how you have any holdup on stock settings racing 250b at 200+ pounds. 

Sounds like you need to do some testing to see how different changes effect the bike.  Id go out and start with one adjustment at a time, lets say compression.  Turn it all the way in, counting how many clicks so you know where it was to start, then ride it.  Then turn it all the way out and ride it.  Do the same for rebound and high/low speeds to see how much of a difference you can feel.  Then you can get an idea of what minor adjustments can do on different parts of the track.

Man, I can do anything to my suspension and it's like, "yeah, i guess it's good."

But 2 lbs of difference in the tires, or a new brand, or a freshie, and I can hear either angels singing or demons grunting.

When you got your suspension revalved, did you tell the tuner that you are a B/C rider? Chances are, the stock valving was probably good enough for your skill level and the "new" setting wasn't much different. I always suggest people go up a skill level with valving settings and "grow into" the stiffer setup.

I used to always go with my perceived skill level when doing revalves, and kinda felt the same way you most of the time. It never made a drastic difference. Then i decided to just go with a setup valved for a pro and it was a game changer for me. Initially pretty stiff, but once i got used to it, i found the confidence to ride faster, plow into sections harder, hit bigger jumps, etc. I've had C class guys ride my bike and tell me "wow, this suspension is AMAZING".

You have to deal with honest people. I used to do suspension and have torn apart many "revalved" forks that the nut had the stock peening on the shaft. Use some company with a good reputation and send them back if they are not what you wanted. Even better if you have a good local guy that knows you. You will more often than not get the best setup knowing the person working on your stuff. Things have really evolved since I did suspension and I use a local guy (Fastlap) and get good setups. 

Well "no action suspension" isn't a very good source to try, from MY experience..

Placebo if you are a weekend warrior usually. I can notice a difference between stock and revalved/sprung stuff at Baja half way through the day when braking bumps are 3 ft deep. But on a practice day that hardly has any chop? No chance. 
 

Suspension nowadays truly doesn’t need to be done for 90% of guys. 

Don't short change yourself, you absolutely shredded the B class on the RM125.

Just grab a regular Motion Pro sag scale, save the money from the motool one, but youll need a second person to read it for you.

Agreed. Especially if ur 180lbs. Local intermediate level.

Try fcr. Lol

Did you ever notice your buddies suspension always feels plusher than yours? 

Yes. 

No.