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You're not wrong, us mortals will never be able to extract 100% of a dirt bike, and that probably goes for anything built after 1995, but I think that that's actually an argument for things like E start. If I can't use 100% of the bikes power, I at least want some creature comforts as a reason to buy anew bike.
Sounds like a pain in the azz. I can see it now , you haven’t reset your codes or maps in 3 months. And the bike won’t start or it runs like crap. In the 2st days someone will tell ya your running rich which is obvious of a lean pop so you don’t blow it up. I wonder if they hv codes for -58 with wind chill . Because newer chev pu just shutoff going down the rd.
I think when you find a map that your happy with, you just stay with it
I think most people commenting on vitalmx don't ride much.
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It's honestly not very hard to use. It's certainly quicker and easier than jetting a carb. Also, the parameters make it so you can never have it "wrong" to the point of the bike running poorly or blowing up. I think it's more that people just don't think about it once they are at the track or care about tuning it in the first place. Or in my case, I messed with it the first couple months of owning the bike, until I found 2 maps that I liked, then mostly left them loaded in.
I would place a lot of the low usage on the design of the app.
Most folks have no idea what those numbers mean. Even if you find a map from someone like Keefer to try, it's hard to put it in. And you can't really intuitively adjust it to your liking. It also was not trivial to get to connect. I just put the Keefer free feeling map in there and left it. It made a slight difference. I did also like how it showed the hours on the bike.
I think Kawasaki or KTM has it where you work more with parameters that folks know, like engine braking and throttle response.
If the Yamaha app connected easier, and had nice sliders like the KTM app, I bet more people would use it.
On my Honda, I have not really tested out the different maps. I spend most of the fiddling on suspension clickers, fork height, sag, and tires.
Nailed it
I agree except it is possible to make the bike run poorly.
Technology for technogies sake.
THIS. I applaud Yamaha for keeping it simple on that model.
I wish the automotive industry would start producing minimal suvs, pickups etc. again. The price, complications and such are out of hand.
For me
When i ride my YZ250f so always feel like i need more power - adjust maps ! ! nope still a anemic 250 no matter what map lol
When i ride my new YZ450f - always has more power than i can handle - adjust map - still too much lol.
So..........maybe not a map problem ! We have behind the bars problem ??Do they have an app for this :-)
Seems the reality is tuning should be left to the folks that know how to do it. Folks that don't seem not to be inclined. The apps do more for marketing than they help the masses.
I think the '23 and up 450 and 24+ 250f Yamahas have those sliders now.
The new models have sliders and appear to be easier to use.
However, here's a quick tutorial on the 18-22 version.
Connect
To connect you need to allow WiFi and Bluetooth from your smartphone, the password is the number on the back of the CCU (black module located behind the left number plate). [When you open the app it automatically it shows instructions on how to do this].
The adjustments you will make are dependent on Throttle Position (as a percentage) and RPM.
Find TH% and RPM
While riding, if you notice an area you would like change the power, make a mental note of the throttle position.
It is easy to estimate your throttle position, 5%, 15%, 50% etc. But more difficult to estimate your RPM.
You can use the digital tach, return to the same throttle position, and see your RPM.
Adjusting
You have 2 options, Fuel and Ignition, you can only open 1 at a time.
Open Fuel or Ignition.
Click on Position to adjust the numbers on the outside of the chart, Throttle position Left Side Vertical, and RPM is across the bottom.
Click on Value to adjust your amount (of either Fuel or Ignition) at any of the TH% and RPM Points. (Example below, bottom left corner is 20% throttle open at 2000 RPM)
Install the Map
The arrow up (top right corner) will send the Map to your bike. Arrow down will download the map on your bike and save it in the app.
Which direction to change?
all 0's = stock
In general;
+ or - Fuel = Torque
+ or - Ignition = Responsiveness
It is possible to make the bike run poorly. For example I tested All + Fuel with All - ignition, it felt like an XR600 but had some hesitation and backfiring.
It's also possible to increase the power delivery to make the bike very difficult to ride.
Yamaha's stated you can't adjust it in a way that would damage the engine.
Sounds like Honda knows something the others don't - most people don't/won't use the feature!
Rather than 'Fuel' and 'Ignition', why don't they have adjustable scales for what the rider wants to adjust? Throttle response, mid-range, low-end, etc. Nobody cares how the ECU gives you the engine feel what you want.
Dirtbikes are my escape from the phone, I think a lot of people agree
Proof once again that modern bikes are WAY more advanced than the majority of riders actually need and it's making them too expensive.
Pit Row
I agree!
Also, adjusting Ignition/Fuel +1, +2, +3 means what in the real world? Never explained.
Does adjusting a10% throttle change 9% or 11%? Never explained, although it does feel like it smooths the manipulation over a range.
It appears Yamaha engineers came up with something cool and the marketing team delivered a luke warm customer interface.
I thought it was a BS marketing ploy but my mind has been changed.
After taking time to learn the tool it has helped me enjoy my bike more, hopefully others can benefit from my hours of dicking around with it.
When you can get new 450s for 6-7K, they aren't too expensive. That's cheaper than a mountain bike
And the simplest and cheapest one remains the worst seller, by far.
Want vs Need. Doing marketings job for them....
No e-start makes it a clear loser. I recently said in another thread that as bikes outpace our own abilities, creature comforts play a bigger part in the buying decision. I can't ride any bike to its full potential, thus I want things like E start else I should just buy a 99 CR
Such an amazing bike, they are making the Norden 901s look even more abysmal.
Here's an angle nobody has mentioned: do modern riders even know what jetting is?
Since the advent of fuel-injected motocross bikes in 2007, an entire generation of riders has grown up without ever having to adjust a carb. Maybe the tuner app doesn't make sense to them.
To get an idea, just go to facebook markplace and search YZ250F. A large number of people who buy brand new bikes dont do shit other than put gas in it and ride it in their field or a track a couple times. If you look for newer bikes for sale, theres like two segments, the hardcore race/ex race guys who have suspension, etc. and there is the bone stock ones that literally have never been touched other than oil and maybe air filter.
I basically found a mellow and hard map I liked when I got my 250f and just have ran those 2 maps the entire time.
"I want it simple and cheap, but also to have expensive, complicated features"
I never said simple, and they're all relatively cheap.
Everyone cares about this on paper, so their bike can be "the best" and check all the theoretical boxes but I'm not surprised one bit.
The RMZ gets blasted for being "old tech" and you have been able to modify it's maps via WIFI for half a decade.
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