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Makes sense.
Makes sense of a lot around here really. #patriots
Rotella is not a miracle oil, it's not the oil it was 5 years ago, it's just cheap and that's what matters the most here.
No motorcycle oils but this site is pretty detailed and what I looked at showed that the car oils out there are what they claim to be. There are some pretty obscure oils out there.
Regarding Amsoil, a friend of mine has a KTM with 220 hours on it. He decided to have the motor opened up and refreshed. His mechanic called to confirm that the motor had never been opened up. He thought there was a problem but his mechanic said the thing looked new inside. YMMV. I still would rather change oil every 6-8 hours than spend Amsoil prices.
ETA,
https://pqia.org/
Pit Row
Ask me how I know.
Shell and Valvoline did not.
The additive package in Rotella looks as good as ever. CK-4 specifies increased shear and high temp stability. What’s not to like?
This website has all the details. Feel free to look up the different oils for yourself: https://pqia.org/
And great things come to he who hustle!
Other oils might certainly perform as well, but never had the rating confirmed by testing.
Another thing to think about when buying truck oils, automotive oils, etc, is that we have wet clutches. Look for the ANSI label on the back and don't get anything farther down the alphabet than "SK." (SL, SN, etc.) Moto Tribology can correct me here, but I believe that's the acceptable level of friction modifiers. Anything higher than SK may cause your clutch to slip.
For example, see this page:
https://www.oilspecifications.org/articles/api-sn.php
The first column shows SN rated oils 30wt and under needing to have under 800ppm phosphorus. The center column labeled “other” is where the 40wt and above weights would fall. The max phosphorus value there is “NR”. Meaning there’s basically no upper limit.
Just one example of the heavier oils not needing to abide by the latest emissions regulations.
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