All

I thought procircuit had a shorty for that bike. Check and see if you have oil leaking around the cc pressure sensor. I don’t think they seal great. That might cause it to run odd.

The clamping surface loss isn't a big deal so much as the movement up of the pinch bolt to a lower strength portion of the stem. It's doable and people have ridden that way without issue, but it's not ideal. I've seen stems break because of it, but that's a pro level rider too. I wouldn't do it personally, it's not worth it just to get the new bearing seal. The old seal setup works fine, just don't spray the pressure washer directly at it (which is good practice for any seal, really).

Looks to be the OEM solid conversion kit (I've never actually see in, oddly enough). The bar mount sits in the recess in the clamps and the bolt goes up through that lower bushing and into the bar mount. This converts it to solid instead of rubber. No upper bushing is used. You can just remove that lower piece and install the rubber cones as normal (as you probably already know as you've done it on the right side already).

This is tough to say without seeing your real situation, but I bet you could easily get it a lot better maybe not perfect but better than 1/2”. Hopefully you have a truing stand, if it were me personally I would pull the tire off and basically loosen all the spokes and make sure they aren’t giving you a false sense of being tight, from dirt buildup or corrosion. And then just baisically start from scratch it will be much easier to see your adjustments when all the spokes have just a slight amount of tension on them vs being...

That's about at the point where I would change it if I was at home in the garage, however if I was at the track I'd have no problem running it. If you use good filters, good oil, and oil it properly, you shouldn't have any dirt pass through regardless of how dirty the outside gets. That filter looks like it meets all those things. You're doing it right.

LOL....one says toward the front the other says toward the back......and you saying this with the chan on top or bottom rotation? The reality is the open end should be facing the back when the chain is rotating. If its on the wrong way the open end can snag on the chain guide and pop it off.

You can weld 6061-T6 and it will age to the T4 condition over time (a few weeks), which is fairly strong. If it's not in a critical spot, then I wouldn't worry about it. But if you're anodizing it, you need to be careful. Brazing rod wouldn't work as it won't take the anodize (I think it's zinc). You'd have to weld it. And if you weld it, the weld will anodize a different color (or just darker/lighter) than the base material. Using 5356 filler rod instead of 4043 is supposed to minimize the difference, but you're still going to...

Yes, the Vortex comes from Vortex with their maps loaded but the dealers like Twisted and XPR will load their custom maps for an additional charge. When I bought mine from XPR a few months ago, he told me he is going to begin only selling them only with his maps because the rate of people sending them back for his maps after not being happy with the standard Vortex maps was fairly high. Now as far as how "custom" these maps are, I think people oversell that point a little. At least based on my experience with XPR. He...