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Now I don’t feel so bad about paying 12$ for a gallon of K1 kerosene

Please don't do this, you're much better off changing the mounts themselves to actually get a measurable difference. A bolted joint should be just that, a bolted joint, not a slip joint that will act inconsistently and potentially cause premature wear. You're not going to change the stiffness of the bolt by playing with torque specs, tension in a bolted joint like that should be within the elastic range of the bolt material, so where you are along the slope of that line is irrelevant from a stiffness standpoint. If you want, come up with a design for the hangers...

Despite what Keefer and many others will say, there's no change in feel to be had from using a different torque setting on your engine mounts (or most anywhere else). You would have to go excessively tight to the point where the bolt breaks (obviously no good) or excessively loose to the point where things start slipping and sliding (and that's really bad too). If you're just changing the torque 15% in one direction or another, there's simply no physical change happening to the bike. The engine mount is still stuck to the motor/frame and not moving, just like it...

When you use the GV kit does that come with a recommended mid/reb setting from RT or just GV settings to run with the stock mid? I know with the right settings in all circuits the GV can work well, as can the PA valve body and other valves both aftermarket and stock. I explain to people that ask about aftermarket valves that if you're unhappy with a GV it's not because the GV doesn't work, it's because the settings aren't working for your application. The same goes for if you're super happy with them, the tuner nailed the settings...

You are referring to the diaphragm? I'll take a closer look at that, too. Makes sense. The plug was black but not oily. Usually runs dark brown. I did start the bike up with one or two kicks immediately after with what felt like low compression but heard an intermittent rattle (the valve) so shut it down right away. Wasn't sure if he broke a piston or ring; all of that is good though. Thank you!

what's your weight in gear ? I have a 22 MC250 and run a 5.2 for 210 lb w/o gear spring conversion in the forks so nothing to compare with

It will be harsh in both rear and front with 98mm sag. Easier to get armpump. Works on flat and smooth tracks, SX style surface. Fork height compensation don't help much/any with that part. Bike will also tend to kick sideways over uneven jumpfaces 108 will be plush in front and rear, even on third line or further up. Can go way faster over braking bumps. Also with right amount of HSC it will be rock solid over broken down track segments like jumpfaces with both deep ruts and kickers. But you will lose front tire pressure and you will...

I’m no expert but I would put the forks back to the normal position and test the suspension at different sag settings. Go back to 105, test then put in 3 turns stiffer test, 3 turns softer. No need to measure. You will find the sweet spot easily. Then measure. Who cares about fender scrub?

Depending on your line of work as an engineer, you know how sometimes a little mistake can propagate. Hold it where you have it and slowly take some tension out of the spring until you like it, all parameters held constant. It’s probably just a mistake on their end, no big deal. definitely doesn’t mean they’re totally useless from here on out…

According to Motorsport’s OEM parts listing gasgas and KTM are the same. Husky is different tho. Also I had to pick the 250 as Motorsport doesn’t have a 350 listed for the gasgas

That's a lot of bullshit from RT. I would not trust them with anything after hearing that explanation. 104-105 on Austrian bikes. 35-40 static depending if you prefer a soft or stiffer rear spring. Anything under 103 sag is unrideable.