Chains. Please educate me

Froggy76
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5/14/2018 3:03am Edited Date/Time 7/29/2021 10:25am
Hi all and thank you for reading.
My apologies if this sounds like a dumb question but how do chains alter the performance of a bike.
I keep seeing questions about “ best chains” or read that the factory chain is crap and should be replaced.....

Can someone explain how and why a aftermarket chain is better than stock...

Cheers
|
kb228
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5/14/2018 4:41am
DID & RK chains are better than stock. Theyre stronger and last longer. Brands like primary drive arent all that great but they work if youre on a budget.

As far as performance of a bike.. a chain thats too tight will affect suspension function and cause shifting problems. Worst case it snaps and knocks a hole in your engine case.

On streetbikes, we usually go to a thinner chain and sprockets to reduce weight. For example i went from a 530 to a 525 setup. Im not sure if thats an option on a dirtbike since the chains are already so thin.
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Mr Happy
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5/14/2018 5:22am
Most stock chains are DID or RK? Take good care of any chain and it'll last, even on the cheaper end. Cleaning and lubing the chain during a days riding, rather than just after it, will help. As will using old engine oil rather than a sticky chain lube meant for road bikes.
kb228
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5/14/2018 5:25am
Mr Happy wrote:
Most stock chains are DID or RK? Take good care of any chain and it'll last, even on the cheaper end. Cleaning and lubing the chain...
Most stock chains are DID or RK? Take good care of any chain and it'll last, even on the cheaper end. Cleaning and lubing the chain during a days riding, rather than just after it, will help. As will using old engine oil rather than a sticky chain lube meant for road bikes.
I havent seen any high end did gold chains on a bike at the dealership. Only the cheapo ones.
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Paw Paw 271
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5/14/2018 5:27am
0 ring or x ring chains last up to 5 times longer than standard chains.

Paw Paw

The Shop

Mr Happy
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5/14/2018 5:38am
No idea what you lot are doing. I've replaced a chain as the end plates and pins are getting worn, rather than because it's stretched, and that was a cheap £20 DID chain.
Alec138
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5/14/2018 6:51am
kb228 wrote:
DID & RK chains are better than stock. Theyre stronger and last longer. Brands like primary drive arent all that great but they work if youre...
DID & RK chains are better than stock. Theyre stronger and last longer. Brands like primary drive arent all that great but they work if youre on a budget.

As far as performance of a bike.. a chain thats too tight will affect suspension function and cause shifting problems. Worst case it snaps and knocks a hole in your engine case.

On streetbikes, we usually go to a thinner chain and sprockets to reduce weight. For example i went from a 530 to a 525 setup. Im not sure if thats an option on a dirtbike since the chains are already so thin.
The PO of my bike put on all new chain sliders and guides and sprockets from Primary Drive. They seem pretty good. The chain i am not sure what brand it is. It isnt worn out and is an o ring chain but i would like to replace it with new chain and sprockets from a better brand... but if you are on a budget i would go with them. They seem to get really good reviews on RM...
kb228
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5/14/2018 7:06am
kb228 wrote:
DID & RK chains are better than stock. Theyre stronger and last longer. Brands like primary drive arent all that great but they work if youre...
DID & RK chains are better than stock. Theyre stronger and last longer. Brands like primary drive arent all that great but they work if youre on a budget.

As far as performance of a bike.. a chain thats too tight will affect suspension function and cause shifting problems. Worst case it snaps and knocks a hole in your engine case.

On streetbikes, we usually go to a thinner chain and sprockets to reduce weight. For example i went from a 530 to a 525 setup. Im not sure if thats an option on a dirtbike since the chains are already so thin.
Alec138 wrote:
The PO of my bike put on all new chain sliders and guides and sprockets from Primary Drive. They seem pretty good. The chain i am...
The PO of my bike put on all new chain sliders and guides and sprockets from Primary Drive. They seem pretty good. The chain i am not sure what brand it is. It isnt worn out and is an o ring chain but i would like to replace it with new chain and sprockets from a better brand... but if you are on a budget i would go with them. They seem to get really good reviews on RM...
I have primary on my kx’s. The sprockets are fine. Not as nice as a renthal tho. The chain on one bike wont keep the clip on the masterlink. Ended up buying a did gold chain for it. The gold finish wears off super fast. Longevity isnt looking promising as ive had to adjust it twice in 3 hours. the did chain has been set and forget during the same timeframe. The DID chain on my gsxr hasnt needed adjusted after 5k miles.
imoto34
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5/14/2018 7:13am
Mr Happy wrote:
No idea what you lot are doing. I've replaced a chain as the end plates and pins are getting worn, rather than because it's stretched, and...
No idea what you lot are doing. I've replaced a chain as the end plates and pins are getting worn, rather than because it's stretched, and that was a cheap £20 DID chain.
A fast rider vs a slower rider makes all the difference. Quick guys who ride hard will stretch any chain.
RussB
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5/14/2018 7:33am
An O-ring/X-ring chain will sap power from the bike due to the added friction in the chain. Spin a rear wheel with an O-ring chain and one with a standard chain and the standard chain wheel will spin longer.
The difference can be seen on a dyno, but I've ran both and never felt a difference on the track.

O-ring/X-ring chains are also heavier, which increases rotational weight which is generally a bad thing. But again difficult to notice.

If you are super serious and chasing 10ths off lap times then definitely get a high end non O-ring chain (like the pros run). If not just get a middle of the road O-ring and it will last all year if not longer
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Mr Happy
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5/14/2018 10:37am
Mr Happy wrote:
No idea what you lot are doing. I've replaced a chain as the end plates and pins are getting worn, rather than because it's stretched, and...
No idea what you lot are doing. I've replaced a chain as the end plates and pins are getting worn, rather than because it's stretched, and that was a cheap £20 DID chain.
imoto34 wrote:
A fast rider vs a slower rider makes all the difference. Quick guys who ride hard will stretch any chain.
Really? Thanks for the insight. I guess everyone on here is capable of winning a GP then.
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imoto34
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5/14/2018 10:56am
Mr Happy wrote:
Really? Thanks for the insight. I guess everyone on here is capable of winning a GP then.
Mr happy, your not very happy bro. You can be hard on chains and other parts without being a professional racer. Guess that blew over your head.

If you think a slower rider and a faster rider can make the bike parts last the same, I don't know what to tell you. Can't teach common sense. Whistling
JBecker 72
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5/14/2018 1:57pm Edited Date/Time 5/14/2018 1:58pm
I have been buying either the Sunstar MXR1 or DID ERT2 for my KX450F. They are both premium non oring chains. The most I get out of them is 15 hours before they really start looking roached. Sucker is hard on chains.

I can get almost twice that time out of the same chain on my YZ250 smoker.

Both of the bikes stock chains didn’t last nearly as long as what I’m buying for them now.
mattyhamz2
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5/14/2018 3:16pm
JBecker 72 wrote:
I have been buying either the Sunstar MXR1 or DID ERT2 for my KX450F. They are both premium non oring chains. The most I get out...
I have been buying either the Sunstar MXR1 or DID ERT2 for my KX450F. They are both premium non oring chains. The most I get out of them is 15 hours before they really start looking roached. Sucker is hard on chains.

I can get almost twice that time out of the same chain on my YZ250 smoker.

Both of the bikes stock chains didn’t last nearly as long as what I’m buying for them now.
ERT2 isn't rated for 450's and hasn't been for a little less than 10 years now. DID tells you 450cc+ to run the MX520. They were having issues around 08-09 with the ERT2's stretching on 450's so they came out with the 520 to fix that issue.
mattyhamz2
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5/14/2018 3:16pm
RussB wrote:
An O-ring/X-ring chain will sap power from the bike due to the added friction in the chain. Spin a rear wheel with an O-ring chain and...
An O-ring/X-ring chain will sap power from the bike due to the added friction in the chain. Spin a rear wheel with an O-ring chain and one with a standard chain and the standard chain wheel will spin longer.
The difference can be seen on a dyno, but I've ran both and never felt a difference on the track.

O-ring/X-ring chains are also heavier, which increases rotational weight which is generally a bad thing. But again difficult to notice.

If you are super serious and chasing 10ths off lap times then definitely get a high end non O-ring chain (like the pros run). If not just get a middle of the road O-ring and it will last all year if not longer
This!
JBecker 72
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5/14/2018 3:21pm
JBecker 72 wrote:
I have been buying either the Sunstar MXR1 or DID ERT2 for my KX450F. They are both premium non oring chains. The most I get out...
I have been buying either the Sunstar MXR1 or DID ERT2 for my KX450F. They are both premium non oring chains. The most I get out of them is 15 hours before they really start looking roached. Sucker is hard on chains.

I can get almost twice that time out of the same chain on my YZ250 smoker.

Both of the bikes stock chains didn’t last nearly as long as what I’m buying for them now.
mattyhamz2 wrote:
ERT2 isn't rated for 450's and hasn't been for a little less than 10 years now. DID tells you 450cc+ to run the MX520. They were...
ERT2 isn't rated for 450's and hasn't been for a little less than 10 years now. DID tells you 450cc+ to run the MX520. They were having issues around 08-09 with the ERT2's stretching on 450's so they came out with the 520 to fix that issue.
Says on the website it’s rated for a 450. Might give the 520MX a go next time.

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mattyhamz2
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5/14/2018 4:07pm Edited Date/Time 5/14/2018 4:08pm
JBecker 72 wrote:
I have been buying either the Sunstar MXR1 or DID ERT2 for my KX450F. They are both premium non oring chains. The most I get out...
I have been buying either the Sunstar MXR1 or DID ERT2 for my KX450F. They are both premium non oring chains. The most I get out of them is 15 hours before they really start looking roached. Sucker is hard on chains.

I can get almost twice that time out of the same chain on my YZ250 smoker.

Both of the bikes stock chains didn’t last nearly as long as what I’m buying for them now.
mattyhamz2 wrote:
ERT2 isn't rated for 450's and hasn't been for a little less than 10 years now. DID tells you 450cc+ to run the MX520. They were...
ERT2 isn't rated for 450's and hasn't been for a little less than 10 years now. DID tells you 450cc+ to run the MX520. They were having issues around 08-09 with the ERT2's stretching on 450's so they came out with the 520 to fix that issue.
JBecker 72 wrote:
Says on the website it’s rated for a 450. Might give the 520MX a go next time. [img]https://s9.postimg.cc/qcxozgefz/306335_C8-1654-43_A8-_B1_BE-_FE6_E1_DDF6_D6_C.png[/img]
Says on the website it’s rated for a 450. Might give the 520MX a go next time.

That's interesting. When they first came out with it I worked at a shop and they told us it was no longer rated for 450's because they stretched so much with all the power they were putting out. We immediately switched to the 520MX and never had an issue.
swtwtwtw
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5/14/2018 4:24pm
ProTaper has released a thin oring chain.
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skypig
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5/15/2018 4:32am
imoto34 wrote:
A fast rider vs a slower rider makes all the difference. Quick guys who ride hard will stretch any chain.
Chains don’t “stretch” (the side plates don’t get longer). They wear. A tiny bit of wear in each roller adds up and the chain is longer.
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YamahaJT1
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5/15/2018 5:58pm Edited Date/Time 5/15/2018 6:15pm
The D.I.D 520VT2 Narrow X-Ring "Enduro" is one hell of a chain. Stronger and far longer lasting (7+ times the wear index of the 520ERT2) than the 520ERT2 and only a smidge heavier that the 520ERT2.

The 520VT2 is lighter than the 520MX, close to being as strong as the 520MX and will outwear the 520MX many times over.

The 520VT2 is 500cc rated.

Don't be put off that is an "Enduro" chain. It kills for all manners of riding in the dirt. It is a Black&Gold beast. Bonus is no case rub on my old CR125's.

Around $95-99 from Amazon.

http://www.didchain.com/chainSpecs.html
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sgrimmxdad
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5/17/2018 4:52am
I only run Renthal R1 chains... Just found a broken rear tooth on our new FE 450, I knew I should have put Renthal stuff on it from the start like I have all our Yamahas... We have run them on everything from 85's to 450's!
Jrewing
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5/18/2018 2:13am
sgrimmxdad wrote:
I only run Renthal R1 chains... Just found a broken rear tooth on our new FE 450, I knew I should have put Renthal stuff on...
I only run Renthal R1 chains... Just found a broken rear tooth on our new FE 450, I knew I should have put Renthal stuff on it from the start like I have all our Yamahas... We have run them on everything from 85's to 450's!
They are actually Regina chains.
Froggy76
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7/27/2021 10:22pm
Reviving an old post here.

So in light of all the above recommendations and suggestions, is there actually a chain that does not need to be adjusted as often as a stock chain.
Not that I am lazy, but I quite often forget to check and tension them before I ride until I wash the bike and notice the sag. I always lub them after washing the bikes put the bikes on the stands and intend to adjust them but simply forget or get distracted.

If you guys have some ideas, please let me know. I have a brand new yz125 and yz 85 for my son.

cheers
MKMX
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7/28/2021 1:19am Edited Date/Time 7/28/2021 1:21am
Froggy76 wrote:
Reviving an old post here. So in light of all the above recommendations and suggestions, is there actually a chain that does not need to be...
Reviving an old post here.

So in light of all the above recommendations and suggestions, is there actually a chain that does not need to be adjusted as often as a stock chain.
Not that I am lazy, but I quite often forget to check and tension them before I ride until I wash the bike and notice the sag. I always lub them after washing the bikes put the bikes on the stands and intend to adjust them but simply forget or get distracted.

If you guys have some ideas, please let me know. I have a brand new yz125 and yz 85 for my son.

cheers
I have run the RK GB520MXU’s on my last 3 450’s and I’ve adjusted them once or twice after the initial run in on them and never again after that. I am also pretty meticulous with chain maintenance (keeping it clean and lubed).

I have also ran the Renthal R3 sealed chain with very similar results (I’m about to try the DID ERVT chain for the next season).

Being on a 125 2 dinger a high end non sealed chain (sealed will have more drag/friction than a non sealed chain even once warm) from DID, RK or Renthal would do the trick.
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27thmx
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7/28/2021 7:46am
Huge difference in feel and performance between an oring and non oring. I’ll never use another oring chain. Standard chains produce much less drag and help the suspension and bike work better. I changed to a standard chain after running and oring for awhile and the difference is unreal. Then again I am near AA speed so I can feel a lot. Just my opinion. I prefer a nice renthal or did standard gold chain.
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skypig
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7/28/2021 3:09pm
If you can feel the difference: Run a non O-Ring. (Or like me, imagine the difference Smile )
If you want to lowest drag: Run a non O-Ring. (Like on my 400cc Road Racer)
If you don’t want to adjust your chain run an O-Ring (Like I do on my Off-Road bikes)

Name Brand, high end chains are made better, from better materials.
(I run A$100/US$75 pushbike chains)
skeef
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7/29/2021 10:24am
Is a 520 the right size for a 2020 ktm 450xcf?

I just ordered new sprokets and went up one tooth on the back to 13/49.
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Yeti831
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8/1/2021 1:30pm
I’ve run DID ERT3 for years now. After the initial break in stretch, doesn’t seem to budge. It’s non oring so it needs cleaning and rewaxing after each ride. For me, worth it.

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