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You have them. Just go ahead and try them. I had a KTM with a hydraulic clutch that would just not bleed not matter what. I changed the bleeder on the banjo on the slave thinking maybe it was plugged up, not it. Went through another bottle of fluid bleeding it until I finally replaced the bolt with another I had laying around it worked fine in like 5 pulls.

Just a heads up, but check with your local dealer regarding sale prices on parts and accessories. I just got 50% off a WiFi tuning module and the gripper seat. I got those two parts and two more oil filters for $204 out the door. I was so tempted to also get the Akrapovic exhaust, but decided to hold off. I’m currently seeing if they will get me a set of wheels for the same 50% off deal. It would work out to about $560 for the wheels plus another $120 for both brake rotors and hardware. Edit: just heard...

The one I purchased last month had the updated mapping, the new clutch parts, and the more waterproof switch. From what I understand the ones at dealers have to be updated before they are sold.

As an engineer you’d think he’d want to eliminate one variable at a time. And the simplest and easiest variable to eliminate is springs.

OP - you must be very sensitive to feel if you can feel a harshness from the chassis riding through the pits. I have a 23 WE model that doesn’t exhibit the harshness chassis feel. This is coming from a slow int. vet rider. After dealing with top suspension companies in the last 30+ years, I feel confident that one of them will have good valve specs.. A few members have already mentioned a resprung & revale. My best results have been with FC. As they do a lot of R&D on the Hondas. Graeme Brough, PC, Enzo are also...

You can’t properly evaluate the bike if the suspension is not set up for you, particularly springs. You are still assuming you’ll have the same feeling after respring and revalve but you don’t know that to be true because you haven’t tried it. For some reason your dragging your feet on getting the suspension set up. Which is the first step in getting a bike dialed in for yourself. Mind boggling stuff, maybe just a troll I don’t know.

Your bike didn’t like to turn because a 2.7mm shim lowers the seat 28mm not 5. Between this revelation and the 60ml of fork oil added to the showa forks I think the new Honda is probably fine and this is a you problem.

There aren’t any HRC engineers on here so I’m not sure the answer your trying to find? Number 1 thing is to go up a spring rate your comment “ SAG, yes I have run from around 100mm to about 107mm. For sure the harshness is noticeably better at 100 than say 105” is further indication along with your fork settings your undersprung and riding around in the harsh part of the travel, especially on the rear. It’s hardly fair to evaluate a bikes performance with out addressing the simple setup items that will allow you to get a real...