Upgrade to enjoy this feature!
Vital MX fantasy is free to play, but Premium users receive great benefits. Premium benefits include:
- View and download rider stats
- Pick trends
- Create a private league
- And more!
Only $10 for all 2026 SX, MX, and SMX series.
I use a scotchbrite pad to clean it then WD40
I do the same but I spray the WD-40 on the Scotch BrightD and use it as a lubricant Then polish it And then wipe it down with Paper towel
How about for a heavily rusted raw pipe? Mine looks like scrap steel around the area where the front tire spray hits it. Scrotch brite doesn’t even touch it really. Should I go with graduating abrasive levels of steel wool, or just get it blasted and try to seal it?
The rest of the pipe is ok, and the scotch brite works decent.
CLR (calcium, lime, rust) cleaner is the solution you seek. Spray/wipe it on and with a bit of steel wool the pipe will look new. Be sure to use eye protection.
The Shop
DeCal Works Huge Plastic Inventory of UFO and Polisport kits.
Luxon 4-Post Bar Mounts
$189.95 - $239.95
Free shipping: VITALMX
Thanks! I’ll do that this weekend
Heavy WD40 after every wash should help prevent future build up.
For that small amount of rust, the wd40 scotchbrite ….if its really rusted I use Muriatic acid to wipe down, then neutralize the acid….then scotchbrite….if you want to add some longevity to the raw look, after the final scotchbrite sanding, wipe down with mineral spirits and spray pipe with high heat clear paint…most auto parts stores sell the clear….much as I like a raw pipe, on my woods bikes its crome plated for the ease of maintenance..
I use BelRay’s version of WD40 and a drywall sanding block. I can’t remember which grit, whatever feels reasonable. I’ll coat the pipe and let it soak for a few minutes then get to rubbing. I really love the finish the drywall block provides.
When it comes to pipe cleaning there is no get out of jail free card, you have to do the work.
Make sure you use some rubber gloves, that shit is toxic on your skin
I always used Lime-A-Way when my two stroke pipes started to get stained or rusty. I assume it is similar if not the same as CLR, it worked really well. WD40 for maintenance after every wash.
I have used Fine steel wool and WD40 with a little elbow grease it'll look new-
like others have said, WD 40 after a wash works great, I spray it on a dedicated sponge I keep in a ziplock and wipe the pipe down.
The best thing I've seen though is to get it clean and then clear cerakote it, it'll never happen again!
I never really ride in mud/wet conditions here, but after I wash my Sherco I hit it with my leaf blower, then spray a little WD40 on a paper towel and wipe on a light coating over the pipe. Keeps it looking good....
For rust, some pretty good suggestions here (although I'd avoid the harsh chemicals and stick w/WD40 and Scotchbrite if it were me).
The Fatty I had came a little bit polished, so it was almost impossible to keep it looking new. But what I do to works pipes in general is wash it really good, and try not to use scotch brite, unless is necessary. Then, after I have dried it up, I get a steel wool pad (like the one in the picture), soak it in engine oil, and go around the pipe in straight motion, not in circles. It leaves a very nice finish, and engine oil does a good job on maintaining the raw metal. I apply WD40 on hard to reach areas.

When it gets stained pretty bad, just use an acidic wheel cleaner to make it look new (it will remove even the blue of the welds). This was my Fatty after 40 hs of use. The repair weld on the FMF logo is proof in case you don't believe me lol.




I started using Cerakote detailing wipes and it is hands down the best for keeping the pipe looking awesome. I cleaned my pipe really good with scotchbrite pads, wipe clean with parts cleaner, then wiped again with rubbing alcohol just in case. Then you wipe on the Cerakote (they’re little disposable wipes you can get a pack of 10 on Amazon for like $15). Waited about an hour and wiped on a second coat. The main portion of the pipe has held up with zero maintenance. I do have to touch up the initial curved part of my 250 pipe by very lightly scuffing with a scotchbrite pad and reapply. The rest of the pipe doesn’t get hot enough to affect the Cerakote.
The only drawback is it does give a gloss finish, so if you want a dull finish this trick isn’t for you.
Steel wool and a mixture of bleach and water and they always come out great.
I use a scotch brite and the anti corrosive WD40. Works amazing. Then clean if off with a paper towel
Pit Row
Numero uno is cut the badge off.
cause they arent paying you. Second is hit with ultrafine scotchbrite with wd40 without hitting the welds. Third is hit it with SOS pad and then you're good to go.
Do WP and GasGas pay you?
Maybe....
Aside from the pay thing which is kinda strange I like the way that looks with the badge removed. I never thought to do that.
Pressure wash with rest of bike.... do nothing else. Looks perfect. I guess this sort of relies on living in Arizona.. 😁
Ride the woods of the middle of north Texas. You become more worried if your pipe is still the same shape it was when you left the barn.
Oddly I use WD40 on my plastic, makes it shine better than new, but stay off shroud and what ever happens dont let it get on the seat.
After washing if the pipe isn't that bad I just coat it in WD-40. Then when prepping for the next ride usually just a quick wipe down with ultra fine steel wool is all it needs. I'll also wipe it down with some Muc off spray on wax to help repel water when I'm riding. If it's super nasty after a mudder or something I'll do the full removal and use a more coarse steel wool to get the nasty stuff, then ultra fine and wax. Its all worth it for that raw finish.
Reporting back after trying Milkman’s suggestion about the cerakote wipes. Great success! Ultimately I took a bit of advice from several folks on here to get it done. I tried CLR straight first, and it worked well, but the rust was too heavy, and was left with rust in the micro-pitting. I really wanted to avoid going at it with heavy abrasives to avoid scratches I’d have to deal with later.
So went up a level to muriatic acid. That was the key. It stripped the rust and the bluing around the welds. Left a dull grey finish on the entire pipe. There were a few streaks I had go over where the acid sat longer than other areas before rinsing it off. You’re on the clock when you’re using this stuff!
Then I went over the welds with a MAPP torch to “blue” the welds. Wiped it down with wax and grease remover, and then hit it with the cerakote wipe. One wipe was more than enough to cover the whole pipe. It does leave a gloss finish, but it’s not over the top. Paid $16 usd for a box of 10 wipes from the rainforest company.
I’ve got the first ride on it done with heavy mud sitting for a day before I could wash the bike. The mud/grass basically just rinsed right off, pipe still looks great! I went to oil the pipe after washing out of habit, and stopped myself halfway through. I wiped the oil off, hopefully that doesn’t disturb the coating.
Thanks to everyone that gave tips on this thread!
Post a reply to: FMF factory fatty raw pipe maintenance