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If your rear spring preload is more than 10-12mm your bike is fundamentally flawed
Static sag is IRRELEVANT. Bring on the downvotes
Does anyone just go by static sag? I thought free and static were always the recommended methodology.
If my levers aren't set right I pump up quick. I also put an o ring around my fork leg to see how much travel I'm using (i think just about everyone does this no?). Overall Fork height in the clamps is critical, steering stem snugged up good with some drag, I like X Trig bar mounts with the green elastomers. Bars cut 1/2" each side, Pro taper Henry/Reed bend on all my bikes.
Same here on the levers, do you keep a finger on the lever all the time? Where do you end up liking yours set?
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So what’s the process?
1. Set sag to desired amount
2. Remove shock and check preload
3. If preload is greater than 12mm, go up in shock rate?
Adjust levers. Ride for 10 hours. Play with suspension clickers and adjustment ( im the target weight for most stock bikes) until i like it and ride.
Have you tried hockey tape? Better grip.
Do moto guys do this? I thought it was more of an off road thing?
I've been cutting an inch and a half off both sides forever and when I ride someone else's bike I fell like I'm going to hit every tree lol
pretty much or try a higher sag number(decrease preload) and see if you are comfortable with it there,
Wherever your comfortable doing push-ups is a good place to start.
What about the spoke skins?
I'll try. High speed compression is not jumping, landing or even a g-out. It effects square edge holes, acceleration bumps or even wheelieing over a tree. If the bike deflects to the side or steps out, try opening it up a little. Always know where you started.
If I'm crouched, not sitting, not standing straight up, I have them in line with my shoulders down to hands angle. I try to keep a finger on at all times but as fatigue sets in I get lazy. lol. I'm old.
When I was young, I bought a set of Answer steel bars to replace my stock ones. They were intended to be cut to length, but I didn't know that. They must have been 40" wide. I got used to them. They were so wide that the throttle stuck when I turned the bars to the right. Everyone who rode behind me said there was no way they could ever pass, because my hands stuck out to the sides far enough to block their lines.
X trig pre load adjuster
Zeta fork caps
Stiffer springs for my fat ass
Wide pegs
And if the suspension sucks, it goes to Graeme Broughe.
What's up with the fork caps?
Would you say acceleration chop feeling harsh while sitting, but perfectly smooth while standing is an indication that the hsc is too soft?
I race off-road, not moto, but I've actually found I like a lighter spring with more preload.
Pit Row
New tires asap and remove the stupid stock band on the rim and duct tape twice around, I think this helps greatly with keeping water and dirt out and also keeps spoke nipples from turning and loosening.
What I can say is don't be afraid to make a change. As long as you know where you started a quarter turn is a decent change, a half turn is pretty major. As a general rule, the smoother and perfectly groomed the track, the more you turn in.
Just makes it easier to adjust compression.
Not trying to be rude, but what is turning down the throttle tube achieving that a thinner grip couldn’t? Genuinely curious as to how much material is being removed and how your grips are staying put on throttle side, as well as how you’re chucking the throttle tube up.
Grease every single pivot point.
Tighten the rear suspension bolts in the next sequence, to the specified torque, with the bike on the ground, not on the stand.
Set the fork height on only 1 fork tube. Remove the front wheel, and loosen the clamp bolts on the other fork tube. Remount the axle, and start moving it through both axle lugs, and move the loose fork up and down, until you feel the axle moving freely. Tighten clamps bolts, no matter if the forks are level above the triple clamps or not, this is the correct fork height setting technique.
With all pinch bolts loose, thighten the axle. Then tighten the pinch bolts on the nut side. At this point compress the forks a little, up and down, so as to make the other fork leg self aline. Then tighten the pinch bolts.
I sometimes upload a couple tips on my instagram page BTI SPORT, feel free to follow (Instagram translation feature will do the work lol)
Do you install rubber bushings in the linkage and swingarm? That's why autos have to have the weight on them before tightening....
I've been thinking about grabbing a set when I get my fork revalved. How much were they? Also wonder if the caps from a CRF450WE would work on my RMZ since they're both Showa 49's
1st thing is change handlebars to a bend that I like. I always cut the bars to fit my body comfortably.
Do a few pushups and measure the inside of where your palm to palm and that is basically the measurement from the inside of the grips.
Not really, but they do have play, otherwise how do you think they allow rotation? And unless your bike working position is with both wheels on the air, you want to tighten them under its own weight. Just take a look at the SX pits, you would be surprised when you see a factory mechanic compressing the rear wheel with a tie down, prior to tightening all the shock and linkage bolts....
The bearing is able to rotate 360 degrees, the linkage is the limiting factor of movement. You're still thinking about bushings that have a limited travel because the rubber is bonded and would be damaged if it's over rotated.
I throw on super low bars and dial in my lever position with an angle finder. I like to weight the front end and having the angle of my levers being out of whack throws everything off so these changes give me both. I'm also a stickler for setting my front brake to where I can wrap my index finger around it at all times.
Post a reply to: What are little things you do to dial in your bike?