When You First Buy A New Bike... What Next?

AP_151
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AP_151
Edited Date/Time 4/29/2021 8:59am
I’m buying my first brand new bike tomorrow if all goes well, made the mistake of trying my friends Honda and I fell in love with the turning and front end feel (I currently ride a ‘19 KX250F) so I’m selling my bike today and heading to the dealership tomorrow.

I’m getting a ‘21 CRF250R and it’s gonna be my baby, I want to take great care of her.

What are some things you guys do when you first get a new bike? (ex: greasing some of the parts that they put together dry.)
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Rider 5280
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Rider 5280 4/26/2021 8:09am
4/26/2021 8:09am Edited Date/Time 4/26/2021 12:35pm
I remove the following and disassemble/grease them well (I like Bel-Ray, Maxima, and Motorex 2000):
(1) swingarm
(2) linkage
(3) triple clamps
(4) wheels/wheel bearings

I also do the following:
(5) Pull the air filter and clean (if necessary) + oil it with good oil (I like Maxima FFT)
(6) Check all the wiring routing is safe & free (on my new Yamaha they had routed the positive battery cable under the seat on top of the frame - it would have failed within ~ 5 hours is my guess). Use zip ties to tidy things up.
(7) Ensure the engine oil is topped off (my favorite is Maxima ProPlus+)
(8) Ensure the brake fluid levels are topped off (but not too much! I like Maxima Racing Hi-Temp DOT 4)
(9) Check that every nut and bolt is secure + PRESENT! This includes the spoke nipples, too.
(10) Check throttle and clutch cables for freedom when the bars are swept left-to-right. Again, use zip ties to tidy things up.
(11) I add off-road guards/protection when the bike is new when possible since it's clean and things aren't bashed up yet (making it harder to install parts)
(12) Install an hour meter - regardless of your bike having a built-in hour meter in the ECU or not. This prevents you losing where you're at hour-wise if the ECU functionality fails.
(13) start a maintenance log in Excel or in a notebook. It's best to get into the habit of recording the work done on the bike from the start
(14) Set your suspension sag
(15) Adjust your bars and levers to comfortable positions for both the standing and seated positions
(16) Adjust your shift lever and brake lever to be in easily accessed positions for both the standing and seated positions

Once the above is done, go break it in and have some fun!
12
garasaki
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garasaki 4/26/2021 8:21am
4/26/2021 8:21am
I'd suggest setting the sag would make a lot of sense.
4
AE448
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AE448 4/26/2021 8:24am
4/26/2021 8:24am
Rider 5280 wrote:
I remove the following and disassemble/grease them well (I like Bel-Ray, Maxima, and Motorex 2000): (1) swingarm (2) linkage (3) triple clamps (4) wheels/wheel bearings I...
I remove the following and disassemble/grease them well (I like Bel-Ray, Maxima, and Motorex 2000):
(1) swingarm
(2) linkage
(3) triple clamps
(4) wheels/wheel bearings

I also do the following:
(5) Pull the air filter and clean (if necessary) + oil it with good oil (I like Maxima FFT)
(6) Check all the wiring routing is safe & free (on my new Yamaha they had routed the positive battery cable under the seat on top of the frame - it would have failed within ~ 5 hours is my guess). Use zip ties to tidy things up.
(7) Ensure the engine oil is topped off (my favorite is Maxima ProPlus+)
(8) Ensure the brake fluid levels are topped off (but not too much! I like Maxima Racing Hi-Temp DOT 4)
(9) Check that every nut and bolt is secure + PRESENT! This includes the spoke nipples, too.
(10) Check throttle and clutch cables for freedom when the bars are swept left-to-right. Again, use zip ties to tidy things up.
(11) I add off-road guards/protection when the bike is new when possible since it's clean and things aren't bashed up yet (making it harder to install parts)
(12) Install an hour meter - regardless of your bike having a built-in hour meter in the ECU or not. This prevents you losing where you're at hour-wise if the ECU functionality fails.
(13) start a maintenance log in Excel or in a notebook. It's best to get into the habit of recording the work done on the bike from the start
(14) Set your suspension sag
(15) Adjust your bars and levers to comfortable positions for both the standing and seated positions
(16) Adjust your shift lever and brake lever to be in easily accessed positions for both the standing and seated positions

Once the above is done, go break it in and have some fun!
This. With an added focus on checking all the bolts that should have loctite. This is more important for KTM owners...I've had 6 or 7 bolts work loose because I hadn't loctited them (is that even a word?)
1
GaryC1
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GaryC1 4/26/2021 9:14am
4/26/2021 9:14am
Pretty comprehensive list above so nothing really to add to it apart from I would recommend a specific Honda adjustment would be to tighten the steering stem nut. Front end feels super free and loose as standard and can encourage head shake and front end knifing in some corners. Remove the top clamp nut and loosen the upper triple clamp bolts, remove the top triple clamp assembly and tighten the stem nut down about 1/4 to 1/2 a rotation then re-fit the top clamp/bar assembly. Very quick bit of work to make a massive improvement to this bike (Keefer recommends this as one of his top 5 tips for this specific bike).

Good luck with the new steed and enjoy it, I've had my 2020 for almost a year now and love it more than any bike I've had Woohoo
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Rawly
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Rawly 4/26/2021 9:35am
4/26/2021 9:35am
5280 nailed it. All we can do is expand on his info. Not sure about Honda , but KTM guys have issues with the wire connections behind the front number plate. Take the plate off and make sure everything is secure. I always add zip ties and make sure nothing gets stressed when rotating bars from stop to stop.
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AP_151
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AP_151 4/26/2021 10:30am
4/26/2021 10:30am
Thanks guys! Much appreciated!
3
TrailDigger 4/26/2021 11:48am
4/26/2021 11:48am
Throw an hour meter on, and if you really want to, 2 in the event the first one shits the bed and you’re left without a correct reading.
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skypig
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skypig 4/26/2021 5:24pm
4/26/2021 5:24pm Edited Date/Time 4/26/2021 5:25pm
Do not start it and idle it.
Only start it when you are in a position to ride it properly with some load on it.

A lot of controversy re “break in” but idling/no load is a bad idea. Whether you choose to ride it at 95% (like i would), or 60% as others might (after warming it up while RIDING it gently, and checking for leaks/oil level.) makes less difference than glazing it up initially (based on 1960’s tech “heat cycles”).

I’ll add - do whatever you want - just my advice. Based on knowledge, research and experience.

Enjoy!!
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MKMX
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MKMX 4/26/2021 6:14pm
4/26/2021 6:14pm Edited Date/Time 4/26/2021 6:17pm
Reference all your clickers and hi-speed so you know exactly where you’re at as a base setting and you can make sure everything is where it should be.
sandman768
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sandman768 4/27/2021 5:19am
4/27/2021 5:19am
Remove the junk chain and put aside for when you sell it, the sprockets are good quality but the Japanese oem chains are junk...
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526
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526 4/27/2021 5:51am
4/27/2021 5:51am
Oil The Filter and grease the rim FOR SURE. Grease all the rear suspension linkage and the headset bearings all though Honda's are pretty good. Make sure all the clickers are at least the same on the forks, set the sag but I would check this a few times the first ride as the suspension breaks in. Spokes check those every ride.

The dealership puts the front wheel and handlebars on so I would double check their work.
1
DynoDan22
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DynoDan22 4/27/2021 6:23am
4/27/2021 6:23am
I don't think that anyone has mentioned this, but beyond the comprehensive list posted above, I suggest giving the owners manual a really good read. You'd be surprised what you learn. Learn the torque values, oil capacities, general service details. It sounds trite, but knowing these things saves time and money. Yamaha, for instance, has some of the best owners/service manuals and details out cable routing and wire routing. I've worked on so many bikes that the owners had wires misplaced and incorrect cable routing that led to issues. Take the time to read it; it helps greatly.
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mitchlovin
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mitchlovin 4/27/2021 7:11am
4/27/2021 7:11am
All good advice, after greasing everything and setting suspension sag, i say ride it. Its always a learning curve on a new bike. Put 5-10 hours on it then decide on upgrades. Bars, suspension, etc. i like to put frame guards and a skid/glide plate on my bikes before i ride them. The bikes now are so competitive out of the box minor tweaking and you should feel right at home. At my speed(B vet) i get the most bang for my buck by dialing in the suspension and getting comfy on the bike. Pipes sound cool and change power delivery but unless you arent happy with the engine characteristics , run it till you know where you want the bike to perform better low, mid, top
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Moto520
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Moto520 4/27/2021 7:49am
4/27/2021 7:49am
Go through the process of setting your fork and front axle. Check the torque on everything that the dealer put together. Grease the linkage. After first ride....set the sag and change the oil. Run it!
GaryC1
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GaryC1 4/27/2021 9:29am
4/27/2021 9:29am
sandman768 wrote:
Remove the junk chain and put aside for when you sell it, the sprockets are good quality but the Japanese oem chains are junk...
Just out of curiosity, what is supposed to be so bad about the Honda chains? Ive had a brand new 17 and brand new 20 and currently have 16 hours on the stock chain with no issues but always hear this being said. Just genuinely curious as to why this is always said about stock Honda chains
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Moto520
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Moto520 4/27/2021 2:28pm
4/27/2021 2:28pm
GaryC1 wrote:
Just out of curiosity, what is supposed to be so bad about the Honda chains? Ive had a brand new 17 and brand new 20 and...
Just out of curiosity, what is supposed to be so bad about the Honda chains? Ive had a brand new 17 and brand new 20 and currently have 16 hours on the stock chain with no issues but always hear this being said. Just genuinely curious as to why this is always said about stock Honda chains
....because the stock Honda chains are pretty flimsy and stretch really bad. My fear is that they will not hold up well under a high load when slightly worn. The chain is normally on of the first things that i replace as well. On a KTM....stock chain is heavy duty. Yamaha....decent chain. Honda.....meh.

I have some riding buddies that ride 125's and seldom have to adjust their chain. For me on a 450......i have to adjust it every 2-3 hours. I use the DID ERT3 and have for years (used to be ERT2).
Skerby
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Skerby 4/27/2021 2:56pm
4/27/2021 2:56pm
I had a master link failure on a brand new 450 back in the day. Failed in the air over a little jump and just perfectly jettisoned the chain. I picked it up and bought a new master link lol, I always wonder if the clip was installed backwards. I check new bikes for this now.
CornflakeJackson 4/27/2021 3:48pm
4/27/2021 3:48pm
I have always heard to grease steering and linkage bearings on new bikes and I see a lot of people recommending the same here.
Is there any concern with mixing incompatible greases/oils? If so is there any way to tell what the OEMs use on new bikes?
My knowledge of grease/oil chemistry non existent so forgive me if this a silly question.

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captmoto
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captmoto 4/27/2021 4:02pm
4/27/2021 4:02pm Edited Date/Time 4/27/2021 4:08pm
skypig wrote:
Do not start it and idle it. Only start it when you are in a position to ride it properly with some load on it. A...
Do not start it and idle it.
Only start it when you are in a position to ride it properly with some load on it.

A lot of controversy re “break in” but idling/no load is a bad idea. Whether you choose to ride it at 95% (like i would), or 60% as others might (after warming it up while RIDING it gently, and checking for leaks/oil level.) makes less difference than glazing it up initially (based on 1960’s tech “heat cycles”).

I’ll add - do whatever you want - just my advice. Based on knowledge, research and experience.

Enjoy!!
Don't put it in your garage on a stand idling and doing those stupid heat cycles. All those bikes get started and run through the gears at the factory as a QC test. Follow the owners manual for break in guidance.

Watch at 12 minutes.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D-Wr2hkc-RM&ab_channel=Automotivegarage
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StevenMX
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StevenMX 4/28/2021 9:16am
4/28/2021 9:16am
CornflakeJackson wrote:
I have always heard to grease steering and linkage bearings on new bikes and I see a lot of people recommending the same here. Is there...
I have always heard to grease steering and linkage bearings on new bikes and I see a lot of people recommending the same here.
Is there any concern with mixing incompatible greases/oils? If so is there any way to tell what the OEMs use on new bikes?
My knowledge of grease/oil chemistry non existent so forgive me if this a silly question.
Some greases are not compatible with others, I know looking at my KTM new when I greased it they used their Motorex 2000 grease (or at least it looks and feels EXACTLY the same) as I went over all the bearings/seals with fresh Motorex 2000 grease. I'd assume whatever the manufacturer is recommending you to use for grease is what they use at the factory for install, but that's just my educated guess and going off what I saw on the KTM. Lithium Complex grease seems to be the most compatible if you are worried when mixing.. here is a chart.


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imoto34
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imoto34 4/28/2021 12:55pm
4/28/2021 12:55pm
I set sag and hit the track.
1
garagedog 4/28/2021 5:57pm
4/28/2021 5:57pm
Rider 5280 wrote:
I remove the following and disassemble/grease them well (I like Bel-Ray, Maxima, and Motorex 2000): (1) swingarm (2) linkage (3) triple clamps (4) wheels/wheel bearings I...
I remove the following and disassemble/grease them well (I like Bel-Ray, Maxima, and Motorex 2000):
(1) swingarm
(2) linkage
(3) triple clamps
(4) wheels/wheel bearings

I also do the following:
(5) Pull the air filter and clean (if necessary) + oil it with good oil (I like Maxima FFT)
(6) Check all the wiring routing is safe & free (on my new Yamaha they had routed the positive battery cable under the seat on top of the frame - it would have failed within ~ 5 hours is my guess). Use zip ties to tidy things up.
(7) Ensure the engine oil is topped off (my favorite is Maxima ProPlus+)
(8) Ensure the brake fluid levels are topped off (but not too much! I like Maxima Racing Hi-Temp DOT 4)
(9) Check that every nut and bolt is secure + PRESENT! This includes the spoke nipples, too.
(10) Check throttle and clutch cables for freedom when the bars are swept left-to-right. Again, use zip ties to tidy things up.
(11) I add off-road guards/protection when the bike is new when possible since it's clean and things aren't bashed up yet (making it harder to install parts)
(12) Install an hour meter - regardless of your bike having a built-in hour meter in the ECU or not. This prevents you losing where you're at hour-wise if the ECU functionality fails.
(13) start a maintenance log in Excel or in a notebook. It's best to get into the habit of recording the work done on the bike from the start
(14) Set your suspension sag
(15) Adjust your bars and levers to comfortable positions for both the standing and seated positions
(16) Adjust your shift lever and brake lever to be in easily accessed positions for both the standing and seated positions

Once the above is done, go break it in and have some fun!
I'll add .... loosen and retorque the engine mounting bolts. Some new bikes come way over torqued.
Moto520
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Moto520 4/29/2021 8:15am
4/29/2021 8:15am
Rider 5280 wrote:
I remove the following and disassemble/grease them well (I like Bel-Ray, Maxima, and Motorex 2000): (1) swingarm (2) linkage (3) triple clamps (4) wheels/wheel bearings I...
I remove the following and disassemble/grease them well (I like Bel-Ray, Maxima, and Motorex 2000):
(1) swingarm
(2) linkage
(3) triple clamps
(4) wheels/wheel bearings

I also do the following:
(5) Pull the air filter and clean (if necessary) + oil it with good oil (I like Maxima FFT)
(6) Check all the wiring routing is safe & free (on my new Yamaha they had routed the positive battery cable under the seat on top of the frame - it would have failed within ~ 5 hours is my guess). Use zip ties to tidy things up.
(7) Ensure the engine oil is topped off (my favorite is Maxima ProPlus+)
(8) Ensure the brake fluid levels are topped off (but not too much! I like Maxima Racing Hi-Temp DOT 4)
(9) Check that every nut and bolt is secure + PRESENT! This includes the spoke nipples, too.
(10) Check throttle and clutch cables for freedom when the bars are swept left-to-right. Again, use zip ties to tidy things up.
(11) I add off-road guards/protection when the bike is new when possible since it's clean and things aren't bashed up yet (making it harder to install parts)
(12) Install an hour meter - regardless of your bike having a built-in hour meter in the ECU or not. This prevents you losing where you're at hour-wise if the ECU functionality fails.
(13) start a maintenance log in Excel or in a notebook. It's best to get into the habit of recording the work done on the bike from the start
(14) Set your suspension sag
(15) Adjust your bars and levers to comfortable positions for both the standing and seated positions
(16) Adjust your shift lever and brake lever to be in easily accessed positions for both the standing and seated positions

Once the above is done, go break it in and have some fun!
garagedog wrote:
I'll add .... loosen and retorque the engine mounting bolts. Some new bikes come way over torqued.
Rider 5280 pretty much covered everything that i do myself. The best time to grease everything is when the bike is new and clean. I have always been fine waiting until the end of the season to add my first greasing to the steering stem and have never had an issue. Eventually they wear out due to water getting in. Some bikes have great sealing on the steering stem bearings while others are not sealed well.

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