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The wear on the outside can be caused by inserting too long of an oil filler cap. It will stick down to far and rub the outside of the basket fingers. The stock rubber oil filler cap can also break at the root and thread too far down and also do the same thing.

Pull the tank and check to see if the valve cover crank vent hose came off or has a hole in it. Something up higher on the engine is leaking and it’s dribbling down the back bone of the frame.

KYB spec for that nut is 29 ft-lb lubricated with red loctite. Stake the nut as well.

Has anyone heard of C12 being added to the list?

Just my humble opinion: -beyond changing spark plug and fuel, do NOT disassemble anything. If a new plug or fuel doesn’t fix it, bring it back to the dealer.

I rode a brand new ‘03 KTM 250sx at the 24hr Glen Helen. I still look under my bed to make sure it’s not trying to kill me. It was that fast and that ill-handling.

The oil manufacturers suggest the ratio based on viscosity and type of oil (mineral, semi-synthetic or full synthetic). Follow the Motorex suggestion of 60:1.

That tube is the choke circuit feed. It cannot be removed and is not serviceable.

2016 Yamaha YZ250f. I recognize the little tab on top of the rights hand side tank. Could fit other years but looking at the OEM parts fische it looks identical.

The Platinum 2 has a thicker wall section than the Works and the Platinum. The Platinum is just a nickel plated Works pipe where the Platinum 2 is more geared towards enduro because it’s thicker and less prone to denting. As far as I know, there is no effective difference in pipe performance.

I keep hoping some aftermarket company makes a good, reliable ECU that will support a carb retrofit. One can only hope! Haha

You will need part numbers 1,7,8,9 and 13. Replace the waterpump impeller shaft (part #1) as it will have a small grooves in it from the seals wearing into it. Take your time and take pictures at each step of disassembly to make sure you know which direction the seals are oriented. You will need a new bearing (part #...

Try “dry fitting” the cases together with just dowels and transmission parts installed (no crank or sealant. This will let you know where it issue is and you can avoid damage. If the cases go together nicely with out the crank, you can narrow it down to a main bearing not being seated fully. if it still hangs up, you...

Certain soaps will fade the anodizing. Simple Green can do that. I know of a few other soaps that do that as well.

That would be the vent nipple for the left side flywheel cover. If your seeing oil, I would check the left side crank seal.

I also had this same issue on multiple KTM’s with the air fork. As stated, make sure the correct length bolts are installed, but also remove the forks and clean the inside diameter of the clamps where the forks insert with contact cleaner. The black color anodizing is somewhat slippery and allows the fork to move upward. Applying grease or...

.5 is a huge jump. Do you mean 0.05mm or 0.50mm?

You were seconds away from that thing letting go! Good thing you shut it down in time. It’s rare, but I have seen cages break before. In a four stroke, it’s even more rare as the lubrication is more than in a two stroke. The majority of broken bearing cages I’ve seen were two strokes that say for years with...

I had an ‘84 CR500 in the early 90’s. I acquired it from a friend who scattered the top end. I rebuilt it and took the cylinder and head in for a bore job and to have the head cleaned up. Luckily, the shop it took it to had a tech who was very familiar with the ‘84 500. He...

The tangential velocity of the rear wheel is much faster than the bike’s ground speed. Think of the rear wheel like a baseball pitching machine. The pitching machine’s wheels don’t spin that fast but can easily spit out a 70mph pitch. On loose dirt, a 450 can break the rear wheel loose violently and spit roost easily in excess of...