All

And besides, is she not the best looking bike yall have seen in ages?! Im sure thats part of my motivation to get to the bottom of this one

I've had my 2025 Hon 450 for about three weeks and have been watching this thread. If you have the new "25" Hon and have chassis harshness, your set-up is not right. I also have the 2025 KTM 450 and I can tell you the new Hon is better and has more comfort than the 2025 KTM, I would put the new Hon right there in between the Kaw and Yam chassis, and those 2 bikes are really good. I have raced the Hon at Glen Helen 2 weeks in a row and love this bike what has surprised me...

Got my -25 this friday, feels just like my -23 just sitting on it. Didn’t like the shrouds when they announced it but they look sick in person. Green sticker on the fender took a few weeks extra.. all European engines had to be split in Italy due to a torque issue with a bolt. +2 celsius and rain will probably delay my debut a few weeks aswell

So here is my experience… I currently have a 23 crf450RWE.. it has all the “known fixes”. For this bike. Works great at this point still has a slight bit of harshness but this chassis has a design that causes it. And the 23-24 bikes had updated “stiffer” sections around the head tube. My Akit suspension is stiff and it takes effort from me to get it to move. I need to ride it fast. I rode a 25 crf450 with suspension from pro circuit that was over sprung for my weight and I felt no such harshness riding in...

Pay it no mind - there are some on here who automatically give a thumbs-down to any post they read. Consider it a badge of honor (and not a reflection of your post quality) and move on. It's really not even worth noticing... unless of course you accumulate 100 of them within a 30-day period... at which point ML doubles your monthly membership rate. 👍

You have it correct: One is least aggressive engagement, two is middle, three is most TC actuation. 3 almost feels like the clutch is slipping to me, while one is barely detectable and simply takes some ‘edge’ off. All good to test, and the price is right!

yea for sure you need some coils BUT in the mean time try simply running the fork rebound clicker to only 2-3 out from full hard. the crossover effect gives a solid increase in compression damp and that combined with the 40cc ya put in makes that stock fork ridable. the actual comp clicker at top of fork didnt give what was needed and seemed to make things worse with extreem setting. ALSO I found the stock shock spring on the 25 honda to need attention constantly in the first 3-4 hrs. It seems to take a set? strange as...

god damn we need a keefer x luxon video sooo badly.

kinda off subject but personally I think too many guys get caught up with sag numbers. Who cares what number it is. Set it at 105mm at home, cold on a flat surface. Now go ride. then based on how it feels try a half turn one way or another and repeat until you find the sweet spot. Then after you get home and the shock cools, check the sag again and record the number. Just make sure you are wearing basically the same clothes so its apple to apples. If it turns out to be excessive sag one way...

yes I learned a long time ago to use a sag numbers as a ball park to start BUT always go up and down by feel AND IMO its the most underrated adjustment ever. This was learned using a hydraulic preload adjuster on shock with a cable running up to my handle bars so I could adjust sag out on track. That way I didnt have to come in, get tools out, make adjustments, then back out to track. That upset my ability to discern the changes. With that on the fly adjustment I got a much keener sense of...

To my knowledge the 25 WE model has the 18mm shaft. You can buy this from RM Cycle less than what the shops are asking for it. This is the complete shaft, piston, clevis all ready to bolt in. I would clarify it to make sure it would go into your shock body, but both are 50mm so it should work. 52421-K95-AJ1 ROD, PISTON $485.27 $402.77 their price