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Only $10 for all 2026 SX, MX, and SMX series.
Did suspension, WP6500 spring conversion. Revalve and sprung for my fat ass. Bike handles great. In my opinion superior to previous Gen. 55+ slower Vet.
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fwiw yesterday I broke out my 22 huskey with the old frame after riding the new frame the last three weeks, wow, what a difference. The husky felt very sloppy and seemed to wallow everywhere. So different than the new frame,crazy
I know some are going with different offset triple clamps 23.5/24. I think start with suspension tuned to your weight ability. My 23 350 SXF is stable, turns well and has plenty of power to pull my 6'1 230 pounds period. To me the new bike feels like the Japanese bikes I rode prior to owning this bike, YZ/KX. I test rode the previous Gen 350's never liked then until now. Previous Gen front end was off. Bike pitched fore and aft. That's all gone now in my opinion. Now only if Yamaha would make a YZ 350F 😉
Just picked up a new 24 350sfx… going to put my well used conevalves on & break her in….I see they went up to 52 rear sprocket, I had tried this on my 22 and didn’t care for it, felt like it made 2nd gear to short… has anyone gone back to a 51 rear? I should also note, I had a tuned Vortex that pulled the 51 just fine….
The Shop
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DeCal Works Huge Plastic Inventory of UFO and Polisport kits.
Luxon 4-Post Bar Mounts
$189.95 - $239.95
Just a quick note, our linkage arm isn't intended to change the motion ratio of the rear end (it does, but it's pretty minimal, see earlier post). The intent is to be able to adjust front end rake by changing the rear end ride height, without altering spring preload and sag settings.
Our link arm at the longer setting made the front end feel better because of that, but made the rear end blow through travel a touch worse as the longer link causes the curve to be even more linear. The longer the arm, the more rake the front end has, the more stability the bike will have. To change the motion ratio, you really need a different knuckle.
You might consider running the REP knuckle with the Luxon link and see if that works for you. Measure the REP link arm and set ours to the same length as a starting point and adjust from there. I don't have details of the motion ratio of the REP, but if you like it better than stock, you can still get the same ratio using their knuckle and our link arm, but also have the ability to adjust the rake.
And a side note, if the Ride link arm is shorter than stock, it will raise the rear end, not lower it. I would be surprised if they made it shorter.
Great info Billy. I really wish I was patient enough to wait for yours to be available, I was definitely considering it. Do you know when they will be for sale?
the rep linkage is supposed to raise the rear of the bike 5mm, so I like the idea of using the luxon with their knuckle
No joke. Just talking to guys at the track, a Yamaha 350 would fly out of shops
Still in the testing phase, but getting close! Probably available in about a month.
Funny you say that because I still have my 22' 350 and when I have rode it against my 23 I thought the same. To the point that it's hard to imagine how I rode the old bike with those settings. Really strange. Almost like the shock lost is nitrogen or something. The new frame feels like it's capable of more speed.
haha, exactly! I thought the same. My shock felt like it had no damping at all! The whole package was just off. Well at least it looks like neither of us were imagining things, haha
I went with the 23.5 offset Ride engineering clamps and totally changed the bike for the better. The bike corners better and feels more stable. That combined with KYB spring conversion by Enzo, REP linkage/knuckle, FCP engine mounts, works connection axle block kit and vortex tuned by twisted, the bike is crazy good. Super predictable, plush and precise. Obviously by no means do you need to do all of that to have a great feeling bike but it is everything I wanted it to be plus some.
Nice 350! I did the WP 6500, Vortex and a Youshi exhaust. Bike is good. Thinking of maybe doing the triple clamps. Bike handles good with OEM clamps, but the bling is tempting ✊️🏁.
Thanks man, sure brings life into focus. Riding motocross seems like such a gift right now.
Anyone tried these? https://ktmdirect.co.uk/collections/motocross/products/engine-brace-set…
Engine Mounts with a cutout from the powerparts catalogue
Looks like a great price compared to the aftermarket options. Have you found them in stock anywhere?
Appreciate your info. I am looking to move up from a '17 FC350 w/FC spring conversion/revalved shock & XPR Vortex to a '24. A couple years older and similar ht/wt, may be slower, lol. Did you consider link and clamps also?
I run 106.23456 mm sag. 23.756 offset. 2.9mm fork height. Loosen off motormounts .25 of a lb. This all decreases the rigidity of this new frame.
I haven't yet, trying to get them from my local dealer
Pit Row
I’ve had 2 KTM,s over the years, although I liked riding them & could go about 3/4 speed if I tried to push or go faster, I couldn’t get comfortable no matter what I tried
I did WP 6500 spring conversion sprung for my weight along with shock. I did Vortex ECU and full youshi ti exhaust. Considering dropping a tooth in the rear too 51. May try the luxon clamps. Mostly for the bling. Stock clamps and link work fine. It's a great Vet bike has plenty of power everywhere. I can ride it longer than a 450. Heck, I can ride two days in a row if I want. Couldn't do that on the 450.
I finally got settled into the new house in Socal and got my GF into a stable medical situation. With that said I have finally had two rides on the 23 Husky 350 and one ride on the new Stark. I will ride the 23 KTM 350 next week. As for the FC 350 I have finally found something that works much better. My opinion is that in stock form the bikes are pretty good. I then messed up a bit and put some parts on the bike like a normally do such as CV forks and traxx shock. The reason I said I messed up is that the bike is very picky about setup. Because the suspension shops tried to setup the bike like they used to setup the older frame bikes it put too much weight on the front end. The shock was valved much stiffer and the spring was also stiffer than the stock spring. As well as the fact the CV forks are heavier than stock forks all of that weight equals a harsh front end to go along with a very stiff frame. I now have reduced the spring rate on the rear shock down to a 4.6, added a progressive linkage, run the cv forks flush, and I now run my suspension soft but fast. I do have the Ride E. 23.5 triple clamps also and the bike turns great! I will continue to test and learn more at a few different tracks.
What sag numbers are you getting with the 46 rear? I just installed a spring that’s quite a bit heavier than what the manual recommends, but it should put my static sag around 40, so I’m curious to try that out. I also have stiffer cv springs on the way. I’m not too worried about the bike, I feel like I’ll eventually get the setup how I want it, it will just take some trial and error
im also in SoCal and go to the track atleast once a week, I’m always down to meet up
Yeah, I think you can get the bike to a good place that you would like it. I remember my 2016 took a long time to figure out as well and my 22 even took some time. My static sag was about 35 or 36. Sag is set to 106 or so. My main goal was to reduce front end weight. The biggest problem I had with the bike was trying to get it to settle into the turns or ruts. I have that part figured out now and it seems to me it is a combination of changes I had to make. Because the bike tends to rise under power or at least it does not squat then I went with a softer linkage curve and then a lighter rear spring than what most would call for. Normally I would be on a 4.8 to 5.0 and now I am on a 4.6. However, the trax shock is valved much stiffer than the stock shock. On my KTM I have a different setup and it will be interesting to see the difference.
I am in Orange County (Dana Point). Where are you located?
That makes sense. my shock isn’t valved very stiff, it feels pretty similar to stock. I’m in the hi desert (29 palms) so I typically hit Glen Helen
We do hit up Glen Helen here and there. We might go this next Thursday. Message me on here when you get this.
Would you say you managed to get the bike to feel good on the rough braking bumps? Some people describe the feeling as harsh in their hands or like a jackhammer? Also, if the feeling is very good now as you mentioned would you say your forks and shock are normal or plush in setup? Thank you
My experience on any bike is that if it feels like a jack hammer in breaking bumps you are probably set up too soft.
I have not experienced any of the super stiff feeling of my 23' 350 that others are talking about and I only weigh 140. I wonder if some of the heavier guys are running a set up that is way too soft and are riding way low in the stroke in the rough stuff.
Please dear god, I hope they wake up and make a YZ350FX. They will sell a TON of them. How can they not see this opportunity?
Why doesn’t the aftermarket make a “small bore kit”? Would it be possible to take a 450 and put a smaller/lighter crank, smaller cylinder?
just saying!
I could go either way as you say. Today I tried both stiff and soft on my forks. I found the braking bumps to be smoother in the soft setting. I have had it go the other way though prior. More testing needed still.
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