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90
Joined
1/4/2019
Location
Lady Lake, FL
US
I’m planning on buying a new Fc350 and wanted some info on what new tools do I need for this brand. I have always ridden Japanese brands and have many tools for them, but I know my new bike requires different tools. I don’t plan on replacing pistons or cam chains, any info would be appreciated.
6 point 13mm wrench for the oil drain bolt, you won’t get a socket on it or a torque wrench so good and snug is a feel you will get a hang of.
the rear subframe, engine hanger, and brake pedal bolts are torx 45.
Other than that you should be fine… it’s not as weird as everyone makes it out to be.
Other tips: there is a small conical inline fuel filter that i change every ride or couple hours for the first ten hours. then every 5-10 hours after, some will say that’s overkill but if you are at the track or riding and it starts to stall, not start easily, or just run weird check that first! Even if it looks clean change it it blow it out best you can if away from the truck and you should be fine!
I run my chain at the loose end of the adjustment range and my chain almost never needs adjustment!
Loc tite and check your sprocket bolts regularly.
Keep up on spoke maintenance, the nipples are aluminum and can break if you get sloppy but i have rarely had a problem that being said stuff does happen, they are inexpensive on RMATV and i have extras in my roll away top drawer.
I have over 800 total hours on the last 7 bikes with the inline filter and I’ve never changed one of these filters. Honestly, I haven’t even checked one in the last couple hundred… have you actually ever had any kind of issues with one, because you’re definitely taking it to a whole new level with that kind of commitment.
I know I am a little silly with it but, I have had some flashing in the first few hours on both my 450 and last 350 and on two occasions with the 350 the sputtering issue. The first time I didn’t have an extra and blew it out and it seemed fine but the second time it happened i changed it. I have two extras in the glove box of the truck now because it never happens when i’m close to home only when i make the drive from Vegas down to LACR or GH!
I made a conscious effort to check mine on the first few bikes and it always looked clean. I swapped mine out once, because I was having a weird issue, but it ended up being a cracked filter in the gas tank.
I bought one of those in tank screen filters on my first FI bike, but it was causing me spill gas because it wouldn’t let the gas go through fast enough. So I ditched it and haven’t used one since.
The Shop
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Torx T20 for the front brake master cylinder cap
Torx T45 for the subframe bolts
17mm spanner for the front wheel
This in T20 is perfect for the fork bleeders and master cyl caps. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00093DYRO/
This T45 is perfect for engine hangers and subframe bolts. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002NRH7MM/
This in M12 gets you a 25 pack of perfect oil drain washers. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078RG5T8D/
Double ended box wrench. Select 30x32. Fits both old gen and new gen rear axles. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0778X6M8W?th=1
Long, 4mm allen t-handle for Shock preload ring and Works Connection holeshot device. https://www.amazon.com/Journeyman-T-Handle-Klein-Tools-JTH9M4/dp/B005G3HJ8M/ref=sr_1_33
I turned my fork out slightly so the air valve is a little easier to access when checking pressure. A 9mm nut driver works well for taking that valve cap off.
There is a WP quick connect for the fork air pressure. It is very handy. The fork tools are different if you are going to tear into those. As mentioned above there are a couple of torx bits you will need for handlebar controls and subframe lower bolts. 6, 8, and 10mm sockets will cover most of the common hardware. I use a box wrench for the oil drain which is a little bit of a pain but not too bad. You can get a socket on the screen plug/holder. The rear axle nut changed on the new bike but I don't remember what size it is now. It is a 22mm axle so it may be the same as one of the Japanese bikes.
Set the chain slack to 65mm minimum not what is in the manual/air box. I don't know why this hasn't been corrected yet in the manual. It will look pretty loose with the bike sitting on the ground but if you cycle the rear suspension without the shock on it will get tight at anything less than 65mm.
what kind of gas are you running?
I see this issue pretty regularly on customer bikes, mainly after they sit for a while, especially with cheap pump gas. Texas gas has a lot of additives and detergents along with ethanol, and seems to go bad relatively fast. The gas starts to go bad and the filter gets clogged, usually just clean the filter, but I have seen a few that just needed to be replaced.
Not sure if the new KTM/Husky drain the same way, but get one of these if the drain plug comes out the side. Makes changing your oil WAY less messy. Lay the bike over and remove the drain plug, then install the hose and stand it back up
America uses standard.
and Japan metric.
euroland uses pounds, so probably a real good torque wrench..
downvote if you don’t get jokes..
Loctite
I had that happen about a month ago, it was obvious it was a fuel related issue, engine itself sounded fine, had no power and would die. Was riding when it happened, came off a landing and bike was backfiring. Checked inline filter which was clean. Loaded up and headed home. Pulled the fuel pump out of tank and filter was split at the top.
As noted above, don’t really need any special tools but the 13mm wrench for the drain plug makes life easier. A set of torx head sockets are nice to have, but most bolts minus a few have 8-10mm as well. Rear axle nut is a 32mm, which is the same for Honda. I ran a Honda axle on my previous bike.
Either replace the rear brake return spring or keep a couple spares. They are a couple bucks, something I didn’t put much thought into.
The air valve is kind of a pain in the ass on the forks, I use the Works Connection no air loss adapter to make doing that easier.
A 13mm and a 17mm, maybe a 15, can't remember, but when my kid got a KTM, there were none of these in the track box.
The 2023 and newer Austrian bikes have a 30mm nut on the rear axle. This wrench from Lowes and on Amazon is nice if you have both 30/32mm bikes
https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-45-Degree-Offset-Wrench-WBE24330/dp/B0778…
Good to know. Really like the 19-22 ktm platform, have had three of them. was planning on moving to the new one in a couple months, holding out to see if there are any deals. Luckily I’m a tool whore and have way more than I’ll ever need.
If it is like my 23 KTM 450 SXF, get a good spoke wrench. I have never had a bike that like to loosen them up like this thing.
13mm sockets and wrenches and Chraftsman sells a Torx socket kit.
Pit Row
Same here, I have 3 of the 19-22 platform. Have a collection of 10 or so air filters.. don't want to start over... ha! Also avoiding TBI and the new gen is more suited to bigger guys, which is not me.
Enduro engineering has a handy dandy 3 in one wrench for both axles as well as a spark plug wrench.
You can get a fuel tank quick disconnect that just has a hose on it so if your buddy runs out of gas you can use the fuel pump to pump fuel into his bike. I think Tokyo offroad makes it....?
Pair of small jumper cables, you likely won't need them but never hurts.
We're calling my GasGas 350 the Mercury and my buddy's Husqvarna the Lincoln... If you bought a KTM, you have the Ford.
It's FoMoCo or General Motors and we're in the late 1980's / early 1990's, trying to go metric but getting it all wrong.
Things I find weird / disgusting:
6mm socket (drywall screws in the fork guard, etc)
13mm hex socket (both shock bolts)
13mm combination wrench (chain adjuster nuts, subframe, sprocket nuts, oil drain plug, oil pickup-screen)
T45 Torx driver (engine mount hangers & sprocket bolts)
32mm combination wrench (rear axle nut)
Do yourself a favor and toss the OEM sprocket bolts and nuts right in the spares bucket and grab a set of the BOLT brand sprocket bolts that come with 12mm "fuji style" spring-tab lock nuts like a Yamaha or other Japanese bike does.
https://www.motosport.com/bolt-hubsavers-sprocket-fasteners?variant[BMH001F]=BMH001F-X002-Y002
I found some titanium shock bolts, so I'll write a quick CNC program and buzz the heads down to 12mm and I'll probably CNC some of my own drain plugs and oil pickup-screen plugs with a 12mm hex head.
The rebound adjuster on this wacky XACT air fork is a 22mm, so you probably want a six sided 3/8" drive socket for that if you do your own suspension service. Of course the air side is a 19mm because they couldn't make 'em both the same.
I love this bike on the track, but I don't love some of the wackadoodles European details...
Thanks for all the feedback, a lot of great info not sure if it’s scary or reassuring. Decided on Husky fc350 hate the color, but getting a Decal kit to cover it. I do plan on running race gas mainly because of the shit they are selling at the pump! Also any recommendations for a shop in central Florida that any good? Need them for certain things ie top end, fuel pump issues that I don’t want to deal with myself. Thanks again!
Give it a few months, you'll never want to go back to working on a Jap brand again. The ease and simplicity of working on the Austrian brands isn't even comparable to any other color. Remember, if you're doing something on the bike, and you find it difficult, or frustrating, try another method. There's always several ways to do something, neither right or wrong, just perhaps more efficient and simple.
Pro Tip. 1/2in six point wrench fits better on the oil drain bolt than a 13mm does.
Lol, just this last week my bike came home with one less spoke
I had all my nipples swapped for steel and never had another problem.
The most important tool for a new Husky/KTM
https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/parts/tusk-spoke-torque-wrench-kit-p…1185350
i was shocked at how fast spokes loosened!…and how much. I was always comfy snugging spokes the old fashioned way but the amount you need to do it on these bikes….get the torque wrench and stay up on it…use the every 4th spoke method and keep your wheel true.
also nice is
https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/parts/tusk-torx-wrench-set-p?s=809737
Just go ahead and buy a set of Torx sockets. Most of the "regular" bolts with 8 or 13mm heads also have the torx inset, not to mention there are a few other little oddball size ones across the bike (grips, controls, etc.)
X2 on the Works Connection zero loss air coupler if you are staying with air forks.
Austrian bikes also use a very torque in a lot of spots. In addition to my big torque wrench for axles, swingarm etc., I recently picked up a little digital version that goes between the socket and your standard ratchet. This is nice for clamp bolts, axle pinch bolts, steering stem pinch bolt, bars, etc.
Definitely keep up with that fuel filter too! If it is slow to start, swap that out first.
You could, or you could tie a cable tie on the sump bolt ( when almost off ) and spin it off with the cable tie.
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