First bike with air forks clueless how they work

luke11
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luke11 8/19/2021 7:53am
8/19/2021 7:53am
Air pressure = spring weight. Find what works for you starting with manufacturer setting. For e.g I think manual says 10.4 bar but I run 10.6 as I’m heavy. Then every time you ride check it’s at that and don’t change from your value unless you lose/gain loads of weight.
All fine tuning should be on clickers just like spring forks
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seth505
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seth505 8/19/2021 7:55am
8/19/2021 7:55am
Don't ask any opinions on here, go to wherever you ride and ask people who are riding the same/similar bike. You'll find that in the real world people are getting by (and going fast) with the stock forks.
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agn5008
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agn5008 8/19/2021 7:56am
8/19/2021 7:56am
Darrin Willis wrote:
Dont listen to anyone who says select an air pressure for your weight and leave it there. My 2 cents. I run 140 ish for moto...
Dont listen to anyone who says select an air pressure for your weight and leave it there. My 2 cents. I run 140 ish for moto. 125 ish for harescrambles. 170 lbs 52 year old vet.19 350 xcf .
Don’t listen to this. Air pressure is like your spring rate. Set it to what it should be. It’s all about playing with the clickers. I started all the way out and worked my way back to where I found a comfortable setting.
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TooTallJason
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TooTallJason 8/19/2021 8:06am
8/19/2021 8:06am Edited Date/Time 8/19/2021 8:09am
I have a 21 SX with the Kreft Revalve Control and in their guide you DO change spring rate for riding off road (along with major changes to compression, rebound, and their RC valve). However I recently rode a friends 21 300TX, and even though those were still AER, they were much softer than my Kreft set up in their recommended "off-road" settings back to back in the same conditions (10,000ft elevation + rocks).

That said, I weigh 250 lbs. and run 158 lbs. in my forks for moto and my setup is largely moto focused. Take everything I've said with a grain of salt.

And to anyone with questions about the RC system, I don't do a lot of off-road, but I was impressed, however I think I'm going to add the plush tank still for the gnarly rocky slow stuff, and went specifically with Kreft originally for the flexibility.
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Rawly
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Rawly 8/19/2021 9:06am
8/19/2021 9:06am
As Darren stated , you can run various pressures , which is an awesome feature for a multi purpose bike like this one. I weigh quite a bit more when I have the extra body armor and full backpack for off-roading compared to moto. The air just sets the ride height so that you are in the correct zone of the fork travel. Sometimes I’ll even run lower pressure ( 120 ) to lower the bike height on technical rides where I need to be able to touch the ground easily.
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Richy
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Richy 8/19/2021 9:11am
8/19/2021 9:11am
Darrin Willis wrote:
Dont listen to anyone who says select an air pressure for your weight and leave it there. My 2 cents. I run 140 ish for moto...
Dont listen to anyone who says select an air pressure for your weight and leave it there. My 2 cents. I run 140 ish for moto. 125 ish for harescrambles. 170 lbs 52 year old vet.19 350 xcf .
agn5008 wrote:
Don’t listen to this. Air pressure is like your spring rate. Set it to what it should be. It’s all about playing with the clickers. I...
Don’t listen to this. Air pressure is like your spring rate. Set it to what it should be. It’s all about playing with the clickers. I started all the way out and worked my way back to where I found a comfortable setting.
Agreed, dude seems a little confused there to be fair.

Changing air pressure for a type of riding, moto to woods or whatever, is beside the point of setting it for your weight and leaving it alone.

If it were springs, a 180lb guy riding single track would need a different spring rate than if he was riding supercross. The point people make about setting air pressure for your weight and leaving it there and using the clickers as intended, is totally relevant and largely correct when the bike's used for one purpose... if you drastically change the use of your bike, of course that will change spring rate / air pressure as it's beyond the scope of compression/rebound adjustment. It doesnt negate the sound advice above, that's a different ball game.

Either way, definitely don't write them off until you try them.
StevenMX
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StevenMX 8/19/2021 9:20am
8/19/2021 9:20am
I ride a 21 250SX (moto/track/racing only)... however I ran the stock suspension for the first 50 hrs before rebuild/revalve by Factory Connection.... for me, first was just make sure you get the SAG set correctly (104-105mm sag). Then adjust the air pressure... I am 170lbs C class rider... I had it right at the recommended 151 psi to start, the bikes come with the red o rings to check travel... you can then adjust PSI as suited for your track/riding style so you get full travel down to the last 1" - 1-1/2" on the fork tubes. From there, I always bled the forks first thing when I get to track to equalize pressure (you can have vacuum pressure too depending on where you ride, etc.). Set pressure in the morning go ride... it will heat up (I've seen it fluctuate for me +-3/5 psi) on normal days going from 60 to 80-85 degrees. Not a huge deal, but again, I check pressure again late morning when the temps come up and after first ride one last time and then go ride rest of the day. It doesn't take a ton of time to do for myself personally and you can adjust to each track if you desire. Once those were set I rode it/broke in then as I became comfortable adjusted clickers... and for me, the only adjustment I made was compression by 2 clicks. Each one makes a difference, so I would suggest small adjustments one at a time.

I then had FC do the revalve (I was curious and I am new so figured why not try and see if I can now "feel" the difference). They dropped my fork psi to 144, the fork height to flush with cap from the stock (2 lines down on tubes) and the rebound out to 20 from stock standard settings. The bike like others have mentioned rides in the stroke and feels a litttttttttttttle more plush. Try it out as is, I've had friends ride the bike coming off 21 Yamaha's and they were pleasantly surprised by the 21 AER fork.
McG194
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McG194 8/19/2021 10:05am
8/19/2021 10:05am
Riesenberg448 wrote:
You can put your rider info into the Spring Rate Calculator on racetech.com and it'll give you recommended air pressures and sag for your bike. The...
You can put your rider info into the Spring Rate Calculator on racetech.com and it'll give you recommended air pressures and sag for your bike.

The AER fork is pretty good for an air fork and a lot of riders don't have massive complaints from the stock setting. Sure it can be better, but it isn't all bad by any means; in fact, most guys are happy on a well set-up version of the AER fork until they ride a bike with a spring fork properly setup for them and remember just how good that feeling is.

Enjoy the new bike!
Funny you suggest the Spring Rate Calculator as that's the other tab I have open already.
soggy
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soggy 8/19/2021 10:32am
8/19/2021 10:32am
Darrin Willis wrote:
Dont listen to anyone who says select an air pressure for your weight and leave it there. My 2 cents. I run 140 ish for moto...
Dont listen to anyone who says select an air pressure for your weight and leave it there. My 2 cents. I run 140 ish for moto. 125 ish for harescrambles. 170 lbs 52 year old vet.19 350 xcf .
agn5008 wrote:
Don’t listen to this. Air pressure is like your spring rate. Set it to what it should be. It’s all about playing with the clickers. I...
Don’t listen to this. Air pressure is like your spring rate. Set it to what it should be. It’s all about playing with the clickers. I started all the way out and worked my way back to where I found a comfortable setting.
Honestly no duh if you run different spring rates for different disciplines
TeamGreen
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TeamGreen 8/19/2021 10:36am
8/19/2021 10:36am
Rabbit Run 41 wrote:
First of all, you will get torched on this site for doing a spoke with... involving a 4 stroke. Wait for it. Happy for you getting...
First of all, you will get torched on this site for doing a spoke with... involving a 4 stroke. Wait for it.
Happy for you getting a 350. Love mine!
Everyone says that you need to get a few hours on the suspension before having a god base line on what to do depending on your abilities. I re-valved my suspension but am still air up front. I see alot of knowledgeable people go spring. I went with JBI for my suspension mods. I did re-map my ECU at twisted with great results. The REAL upgrade would be a Vortex ECU.
FMF pipe if you feel you need to after that. Enjoy!
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soggy
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soggy 8/19/2021 10:38am
8/19/2021 10:38am
Riesenberg448 wrote:
You can put your rider info into the Spring Rate Calculator on racetech.com and it'll give you recommended air pressures and sag for your bike. The...
You can put your rider info into the Spring Rate Calculator on racetech.com and it'll give you recommended air pressures and sag for your bike.

The AER fork is pretty good for an air fork and a lot of riders don't have massive complaints from the stock setting. Sure it can be better, but it isn't all bad by any means; in fact, most guys are happy on a well set-up version of the AER fork until they ride a bike with a spring fork properly setup for them and remember just how good that feeling is.

Enjoy the new bike!
McG194 wrote:
Funny you suggest the Spring Rate Calculator as that's the other tab I have open already.
RT spring calculator is way light imo. Especially on forks.
CKNY
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CKNY 8/19/2021 12:31pm
8/19/2021 12:31pm
sandman768 wrote:
Use a rubber oring on one of the fork tubes. When the oring is about 1-1.5 inches from the bottom, that will be your air setting...
Use a rubber oring on one of the fork tubes. When the oring is about 1-1.5 inches from the bottom, that will be your air setting for your terrain, then fine tune with clicker settings. Give them a chance to break in, remember to bleed the screws on fork caps. Make your own determination on how the forks feel, everyone is different.
They come stock with red rings.
CKNY
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CKNY 8/19/2021 12:35pm
8/19/2021 12:35pm
Darrin Willis wrote:
Dont listen to anyone who says select an air pressure for your weight and leave it there. My 2 cents. I run 140 ish for moto...
Dont listen to anyone who says select an air pressure for your weight and leave it there. My 2 cents. I run 140 ish for moto. 125 ish for harescrambles. 170 lbs 52 year old vet.19 350 xcf .
agn5008 wrote:
Don’t listen to this. Air pressure is like your spring rate. Set it to what it should be. It’s all about playing with the clickers. I...
Don’t listen to this. Air pressure is like your spring rate. Set it to what it should be. It’s all about playing with the clickers. I started all the way out and worked my way back to where I found a comfortable setting.
Nah, really doesn’t work that way on the XACT. You can play with air pressures for different terrain and riding styles. I’d normally vary 30 to 35psi depending on what I was riding and that netted great results. Many others will back this up. If you’re pretty much only riding MX then yeah, usually your psi doesn’t vary more than 5psi. Pressures can totally be used to change the feel of the fork.
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MPJC
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MPJC 8/19/2021 12:57pm
8/19/2021 12:57pm
For those who change air pressure to change fork feel, doesn’t that mess with the balance of the bike? I had a few KTMs with air forks and left the pressure alone once I got it right for my weight because if I lowered or raised it, I’d get oversteer or understeer. It doesn’t make sense to me to change the spring rate in the front while the back stays the same. You could compensate by changing sag or fork height but if you don’t you can’t expect to have radically mismatched spring rates front and rear and have a bike that handles properly.
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Broseph
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Broseph 8/19/2021 1:27pm
8/19/2021 1:27pm
MPJC wrote:
For those who change air pressure to change fork feel, doesn’t that mess with the balance of the bike? I had a few KTMs with air...
For those who change air pressure to change fork feel, doesn’t that mess with the balance of the bike? I had a few KTMs with air forks and left the pressure alone once I got it right for my weight because if I lowered or raised it, I’d get oversteer or understeer. It doesn’t make sense to me to change the spring rate in the front while the back stays the same. You could compensate by changing sag or fork height but if you don’t you can’t expect to have radically mismatched spring rates front and rear and have a bike that handles properly.
Sometimes changing the balance is what people are after. Say someone riding desert one day and woods the next.
soggy
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soggy 8/19/2021 1:33pm
8/19/2021 1:33pm
Darrin Willis wrote:
Dont listen to anyone who says select an air pressure for your weight and leave it there. My 2 cents. I run 140 ish for moto...
Dont listen to anyone who says select an air pressure for your weight and leave it there. My 2 cents. I run 140 ish for moto. 125 ish for harescrambles. 170 lbs 52 year old vet.19 350 xcf .
agn5008 wrote:
Don’t listen to this. Air pressure is like your spring rate. Set it to what it should be. It’s all about playing with the clickers. I...
Don’t listen to this. Air pressure is like your spring rate. Set it to what it should be. It’s all about playing with the clickers. I started all the way out and worked my way back to where I found a comfortable setting.
CKNY wrote:
Nah, really doesn’t work that way on the XACT. You can play with air pressures for different terrain and riding styles. I’d normally vary 30 to...
Nah, really doesn’t work that way on the XACT. You can play with air pressures for different terrain and riding styles. I’d normally vary 30 to 35psi depending on what I was riding and that netted great results. Many others will back this up. If you’re pretty much only riding MX then yeah, usually your psi doesn’t vary more than 5psi. Pressures can totally be used to change the feel of the fork.
You guys are talking in two different directions. If your riding one discipline (mx) you absolutely should find a spring rate (air pressure) and stick with it.

It’s pretty common knowledge different disciplines require different spring rates mx vs off-road etc.
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CKNY
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CKNY 8/19/2021 1:43pm
8/19/2021 1:43pm
agn5008 wrote:
Don’t listen to this. Air pressure is like your spring rate. Set it to what it should be. It’s all about playing with the clickers. I...
Don’t listen to this. Air pressure is like your spring rate. Set it to what it should be. It’s all about playing with the clickers. I started all the way out and worked my way back to where I found a comfortable setting.
CKNY wrote:
Nah, really doesn’t work that way on the XACT. You can play with air pressures for different terrain and riding styles. I’d normally vary 30 to...
Nah, really doesn’t work that way on the XACT. You can play with air pressures for different terrain and riding styles. I’d normally vary 30 to 35psi depending on what I was riding and that netted great results. Many others will back this up. If you’re pretty much only riding MX then yeah, usually your psi doesn’t vary more than 5psi. Pressures can totally be used to change the feel of the fork.
soggy wrote:
You guys are talking in two different directions. If your riding one discipline (mx) you absolutely should find a spring rate (air pressure) and stick with...
You guys are talking in two different directions. If your riding one discipline (mx) you absolutely should find a spring rate (air pressure) and stick with it.

It’s pretty common knowledge different disciplines require different spring rates mx vs off-road etc.
For MX I would vary 10 psi depending on track surface and condition. 150 plus for a smooth sand track, lower on rough hard pack tracks with lots of breaking bumps and square edge.
MPJC
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MPJC 8/19/2021 1:44pm
8/19/2021 1:44pm
MPJC wrote:
For those who change air pressure to change fork feel, doesn’t that mess with the balance of the bike? I had a few KTMs with air...
For those who change air pressure to change fork feel, doesn’t that mess with the balance of the bike? I had a few KTMs with air forks and left the pressure alone once I got it right for my weight because if I lowered or raised it, I’d get oversteer or understeer. It doesn’t make sense to me to change the spring rate in the front while the back stays the same. You could compensate by changing sag or fork height but if you don’t you can’t expect to have radically mismatched spring rates front and rear and have a bike that handles properly.
Broseph wrote:
Sometimes changing the balance is what people are after. Say someone riding desert one day and woods the next.
Yes, that makes sense - more air pressure for more stability for high speed riding. As far as lowering for woods riding, I found that suppleness was best achieved with damping adjustments as less pressure means riding lower in the stroke where the damping is stiffer. I'd rather raise my forks in the clamps for better turning.

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crockett
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crockett 8/19/2021 3:12pm
8/19/2021 3:12pm
It would be nice to have a clear understanding of how changing the psi or “spring rate” will affect geometry and even the “plushness”
On a ‘20 fc350 if I’m riding a track I do 15 min motos I’ll run 142-148 psi and 10-15 clicks out (170lbs w/ gear)
In the trails I drop to around 136.. does this help? It feels like it moves more which I want. But also feels like it dives further in hard breaking. Which I don’t like
In a 3hr race I want the bike to be super soft, sure it’s difficult to ride the first 45 mins, but pace slows a lot after 1.5 hrs and a stiff bike is brutal for the 2nd half of a race.
What’s the best way to achieve that if changing air pressure isn’t the fix
MPJC
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MPJC 8/19/2021 3:36pm
8/19/2021 3:36pm
crockett wrote:
It would be nice to have a clear understanding of how changing the psi or “spring rate” will affect geometry and even the “plushness” On a...
It would be nice to have a clear understanding of how changing the psi or “spring rate” will affect geometry and even the “plushness”
On a ‘20 fc350 if I’m riding a track I do 15 min motos I’ll run 142-148 psi and 10-15 clicks out (170lbs w/ gear)
In the trails I drop to around 136.. does this help? It feels like it moves more which I want. But also feels like it dives further in hard breaking. Which I don’t like
In a 3hr race I want the bike to be super soft, sure it’s difficult to ride the first 45 mins, but pace slows a lot after 1.5 hrs and a stiff bike is brutal for the 2nd half of a race.
What’s the best way to achieve that if changing air pressure isn’t the fix
Less air means a softer spring rate, which doesn’t hold the front end up as much. If the front rides lower your bike will generally turn sharper. Too low and it will want to knife in the turns. Too much air and it will ride too high in the stroke and possibly push in the turns. Too much air and it will be too stiff - more force required to compress the forks. But too little air can also cause harshness by allowing the forks to ride too low in the stroke where the damping is stiffer. Lots of variables at play.
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soggy
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soggy 8/19/2021 3:39pm
8/19/2021 3:39pm
CKNY wrote:
For MX I would vary 10 psi depending on track surface and condition. 150 plus for a smooth sand track, lower on rough hard pack tracks...
For MX I would vary 10 psi depending on track surface and condition. 150 plus for a smooth sand track, lower on rough hard pack tracks with lots of breaking bumps and square edge.
I feel like you are probably giving up performance in other areas with big changes like this. But if it’s working for you 👍🏻
soggy
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soggy 8/19/2021 5:06pm
8/19/2021 5:06pm
crockett wrote:
It would be nice to have a clear understanding of how changing the psi or “spring rate” will affect geometry and even the “plushness” On a...
It would be nice to have a clear understanding of how changing the psi or “spring rate” will affect geometry and even the “plushness”
On a ‘20 fc350 if I’m riding a track I do 15 min motos I’ll run 142-148 psi and 10-15 clicks out (170lbs w/ gear)
In the trails I drop to around 136.. does this help? It feels like it moves more which I want. But also feels like it dives further in hard breaking. Which I don’t like
In a 3hr race I want the bike to be super soft, sure it’s difficult to ride the first 45 mins, but pace slows a lot after 1.5 hrs and a stiff bike is brutal for the 2nd half of a race.
What’s the best way to achieve that if changing air pressure isn’t the fix
The problem you have is valving. It’s impossible to have perfect valving for woods and mx. But Compression and rebound adjusters. I would try going stiffer on the comp to see if cuts down on some of the dive and sped up the rebound as well. Keep going stiffer/faster til it gets worse then go back a click out two.
MX558
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MX558 8/19/2021 8:08pm
8/19/2021 8:08pm
Broseph wrote:
FYI: “Give it 10 hrs to break in” = Ride it just long enough to forget what a good spring fork feels like.
Funny and true . The wp stuff isn't bad until you ride anything else
David934
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David934 8/20/2021 2:01am
8/20/2021 2:01am
When Honda going into Air back i the day, i changed bike to Yami till today.
cloud41
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cloud41 8/20/2021 4:29am
8/20/2021 4:29am Edited Date/Time 8/20/2021 4:29am
Plot twist: they don’t work, well
CKNY
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CKNY 8/20/2021 4:43am
8/20/2021 4:43am
CKNY wrote:
For MX I would vary 10 psi depending on track surface and condition. 150 plus for a smooth sand track, lower on rough hard pack tracks...
For MX I would vary 10 psi depending on track surface and condition. 150 plus for a smooth sand track, lower on rough hard pack tracks with lots of breaking bumps and square edge.
soggy wrote:
I feel like you are probably giving up performance in other areas with big changes like this. But if it’s working for you 👍🏻
I wouldn’t consider 10psi a big change.
soggy
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soggy 8/20/2021 5:32am
8/20/2021 5:32am
CKNY wrote:
For MX I would vary 10 psi depending on track surface and condition. 150 plus for a smooth sand track, lower on rough hard pack tracks...
For MX I would vary 10 psi depending on track surface and condition. 150 plus for a smooth sand track, lower on rough hard pack tracks with lots of breaking bumps and square edge.
soggy wrote:
I feel like you are probably giving up performance in other areas with big changes like this. But if it’s working for you 👍🏻
CKNY wrote:
I wouldn’t consider 10psi a big change.
Ok do you. I’m not here to argue semantics.
Darrin Willis
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Darrin Willis 8/20/2021 6:47am
8/20/2021 6:47am Edited Date/Time 8/20/2021 6:48am
Darrin Willis wrote:
Dont listen to anyone who says select an air pressure for your weight and leave it there. My 2 cents. I run 140 ish for moto...
Dont listen to anyone who says select an air pressure for your weight and leave it there. My 2 cents. I run 140 ish for moto. 125 ish for harescrambles. 170 lbs 52 year old vet.19 350 xcf .
Jeff_Brines wrote:
I disagree with this. I want the handling of the bike to remain the same through corners regardless of the type of event I'm doing. By...
I disagree with this. I want the handling of the bike to remain the same through corners regardless of the type of event I'm doing.

By dropping air pressure, I get a lot of front end dive and changes in geometry of the bike.

While I will drop a handful of psi (3-4 max) for something like a hard enduro where cornering is less important, I can only go so far before its absolutely terrifying from a "Imma go over the bars" perspective.

In order to get the forks to work better in chunder/choppy terrain, revalving is a better option. Again, getting more fluid flow for high speed impacts is what we off road/non -MX guys want.
I certainly understand your reasoning. I just don't notice any xtra dive in the fork with lower pressures. At least from a handling standpoint. I do have a race tech revalve. Gncc settings.
captmoto
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captmoto 8/20/2021 10:48am
8/20/2021 10:48am
CKNY wrote:
For MX I would vary 10 psi depending on track surface and condition. 150 plus for a smooth sand track, lower on rough hard pack tracks...
For MX I would vary 10 psi depending on track surface and condition. 150 plus for a smooth sand track, lower on rough hard pack tracks with lots of breaking bumps and square edge.
soggy wrote:
I feel like you are probably giving up performance in other areas with big changes like this. But if it’s working for you 👍🏻
CKNY wrote:
I wouldn’t consider 10psi a big change.
I read somewhere that 10 lbs. was like 5 spring rates. Way too big of a swing.
CKNY
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CKNY 8/20/2021 11:45am
8/20/2021 11:45am Edited Date/Time 8/20/2021 11:49am
soggy wrote:
I feel like you are probably giving up performance in other areas with big changes like this. But if it’s working for you 👍🏻
CKNY wrote:
I wouldn’t consider 10psi a big change.
captmoto wrote:
I read somewhere that 10 lbs. was like 5 spring rates. Way too big of a swing.
It’s not. If you don’t have a new Xact set up and tried different pressures you are just speculating. You can’t compare to a conventional spring fork rate. Also many people tune spring fork suspension with spring rates. Take my Luckies for instance. MXT almost always runs a stiffer spring rate than Protune’s set ups.

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