Stripped Flange Nut - HELP!

Anonymous (not verified)
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Anonymous (not verified)
Edited Date/Time 4/1/2013 9:58pm
Well, I got myself into a big problem this evening while trying to remove the cylinder on my 2007 CR125. I stripped the head of the flange nut next to the RC valve arm. The corners of the nut are rounded (see the picture below). What do I do now? I cannot get this damn nut off and am totally frustrated. Thanks for any help!

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Kmid514
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Kmid514 3/28/2013 7:58pm
3/28/2013 7:58pm
I'm working on uploading from this newfangled camera I got, but this is what you need if the pics work.



EMA884mx
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EMA884mx 3/28/2013 8:03pm
3/28/2013 8:03pm
Do you think those sockets are small enough to fit into that space? Thanks for the pictures.
motosicko
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motosicko 3/28/2013 8:07pm
3/28/2013 8:07pm
You can also get box end wrenches that work on the flats of nuts just like those sockets. Visit Sears
EMA884mx
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EMA884mx 3/28/2013 8:16pm
3/28/2013 8:16pm
I will run by Sears in the morning tomorrow and pick some of those up. Are you saying they grip the rounded nut like the socket would, but are able to fit into the tight space being a box end? I appreciate it!

The Shop

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EMA884mx
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EMA884mx 3/28/2013 8:32pm
3/28/2013 8:32pm
Yeah, a 12pt stripped it. It wouldn't budge and so like an idiot I tried tapping the wrench on the nut with a hammer, and that was my mistake. The wrench turned a bit, but only rounded the corners and did not turn the nut.

I also saw these:

http://www.sears.com/grip-tite-super-wrenches-6-pc-metric-combination/p…

Any experience with these?
JW381
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JW381 3/28/2013 8:35pm
3/28/2013 8:35pm
Dunno if you can maybe get some vice grips on there, I'm always surprised as to what those can pull off of things.
friday10
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friday10 3/28/2013 9:28pm
3/28/2013 9:28pm
motosicko wrote:
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-14mm-wrench-6-pt-combination/p-00942871000P?prdNo=28 A 6pt box end works better than a 12pt. which I'm just guessing but is probably what stripped it to begin with??? The newer ones...
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-14mm-wrench-6-pt-combination/p-009428710…
A 6pt box end works better than a 12pt. which I'm just guessing but is probably what stripped it to begin with??? The newer ones work more on the flats than corners like old style.
Thats the ticket!!
pete24
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pete24 3/29/2013 5:51am
3/29/2013 5:51am
if you had real tools that wouldnt have happened, i bet a 12 point snap on wrench would still get it off, if you intend to play mechanic, quit shopping for tools at sears, the good news is, that bolt stopped you so you could clean the rest of the dirt off that motor before you take it apart and it all falls inside
slipdog
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slipdog 3/29/2013 6:12am
3/29/2013 6:12am
^^^The truth shall set you free!
EMA884mx
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EMA884mx 3/29/2013 6:32am
3/29/2013 6:32am
Hey good call, I appreciate the help. I didn't go to school to be a mechanic but I sure do enjoy "playing" one. Mistakes teach me more than anything else.
xnationalwrench 3/29/2013 8:10am
3/29/2013 8:10am
EMA884mx wrote:
Hey good call, I appreciate the help. I didn't go to school to be a mechanic but I sure do enjoy "playing" one. Mistakes teach me...
Hey good call, I appreciate the help. I didn't go to school to be a mechanic but I sure do enjoy "playing" one. Mistakes teach me more than anything else.
Just chalk it to experience, live & learn. Its amazing what a little experience can do. "To be old and wise you 1st must be young and stupid"" (If I ever grow up I'm gonna be 1 smart fella LOL).
JCollins762
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JCollins762 3/29/2013 10:05am
3/29/2013 10:05am
Had the same problem on an 03 CR 250. I had a 12 point box end wrench on it, and when the bolt didn't want to break free easy the wrench marred the piss out of the nut just like yours. Why I had that wrench in the first place is kind of beyond me, but I walked over to the tool box, grabbed a good ole 6 point and a flat head and a hammer (I know I know, just shhhh) used the flathead as an extension for the hammer and tapped that nut probably 12-16 times, used the 6 point on it and she broke loose. Order a new OEM nut (was about $2-3) and threw it on. a little antiseize shouldn't hurt either.
526
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526 3/29/2013 11:16am
3/29/2013 11:16am
Are you sure that is Stripped ? It is A 2 Stroke and everyone knows they are PERFECT!!!!! I would look at it again.
BAMX
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BAMX 3/29/2013 11:26am
3/29/2013 11:26am
526 wrote:
Are you sure that is Stripped ? It is A 2 Stroke and everyone knows they are PERFECT!!!!! I would look at it again.
You can tell that it is a 2 stroke just because he is doing the top end himself. Sure he screwed it up by using a cheap wrench but that bolt is only like $2 and he didn't have to get new valves spring seats etc. for $400 or more.
526
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526 3/29/2013 12:24pm
3/29/2013 12:24pm
It is a Nut not a bolt

it didn't cost him $400 YET he only has ONE cover off and my 5 4 Strokes NEVER cost me $400 to rebuild. Its all about maintenance my friend.
JCollins762
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JCollins762 3/29/2013 1:31pm
3/29/2013 1:31pm
526 wrote:
It is a Nut not a bolt it didn't cost him $400 YET he only has ONE cover off and my 5 4 Strokes NEVER cost...
It is a Nut not a bolt

it didn't cost him $400 YET he only has ONE cover off and my 5 4 Strokes NEVER cost me $400 to rebuild. Its all about maintenance my friend.
What exactly do you consider a "rebuild"?

I would say your definition of a rebuild was just a piston, rings, circlips, wrist pin and gaskets.. but you say it's all about the maintenance, which leads me to believe you do it the right way.. in which case you would replace your valves, right? But why stop there, you're all about the maintenance and "take care of the bike" attitude, you need to grab some new springs and keepers right? Heck, if you're getting new valves and springs you misewell have the seats and guides checked out a cut by a machine shop.

$270 - Piston kit
$160 - Valves
$200-400 - Valve springs(Depending on the brand, but I'm sure you go with the most expensive seeing as you're the maintenance pro.
$?? - Machine work

Don't get me wrong, I like 4 strokes.. but if you're really going to rebuild the bike the correct way then you're not gonna come out

Pit Row

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Starvin_Martin 3/29/2013 2:22pm
3/29/2013 2:22pm
526 wrote:
Are you sure that is Stripped ? It is A 2 Stroke and everyone knows they are PERFECT!!!!! I would look at it again.
You really need to get that sand out of your vagina.
EMA884mx
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EMA884mx 3/29/2013 2:40pm
3/29/2013 2:40pm
Ok, so here's what ended up happening. Thanks again to those who left productive feedback. I bought a 6-pt quality box-end wrench and some low-profile sockets for damaged nuts in case that didn't work. The 6-pt wrench did in fact grip the nut much better than the 12-pt wrench. The problem though was that unfortunately I had done so much damage to the nut that the 6-pt still did not work. I actually continued to round the edges despite my greatest effort. Without going into too much detail, the sockets designed to grip damaged nuts was of little use as well due to the limited space within that casing. So, I ended up taking it over to the the dealership's service department here and the mechanic looked at it. We both agreed that I did a great job of jacking up the nut. He tried a vice grip and no luck. He mentioned using a chisel and hammer, but was hesitant to cause any further damage. He decided that he would use a Dremel to cut off the nut. We ordered the OEM nut and special stud bolt and he will have it done in a week. So that's the story.

A few lessons learned:

1. Definitely use quality tools (6-pt wrenches are more suitable for removing hex nuts than 12-pt wrenches)
2. Never use a hammer to tap on a wrench (or at least use caution)
3. Never stop trying and have fun doing it. Yes this was frustrating, but hell I won't make the same mistake again. I've been riding for years and have never had this really come up. Discouraged? Nope.

And to answer someone's question, all of the other flange nuts were removed yesterday evening with the original wrench I used. I do not know why this particular one proved to be such a pain.
CamP
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CamP 3/29/2013 2:48pm
3/29/2013 2:48pm
You can get that nut off in about 10 seconds with a sharp chisel and hammer.
mx5471
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mx5471 3/29/2013 4:34pm
3/29/2013 4:34pm
I'm with nationalwrench here. In the first place, that nut shouldn't be that tight,or rusted, being that it's enclosed. But the experience part comes in there. A push to loosen it, ok, but if it won't move, a sharp hit can do the trick. Ever try to get a Phillips head screw out? Push the screwdriver in as hard as you can, and turn it quick and hard to break it loose. When I say a hit, I mean with the palm of your hand on the wrench, not a hammer. And the other guy is right. He should clean that motor better. Looks like he's got it covered, good luck to him.
MR. X
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MR. X 3/30/2013 4:54am
3/30/2013 4:54am
Did a " help me with this stripped nut " thread really turn into 4vs2 stroke thread .
motofab36
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motofab36 3/30/2013 5:54pm
3/30/2013 5:54pm
CamP wrote:
You can get that nut off in about 10 seconds with a sharp chisel and hammer.
this was my first thought when I saw his pic.
lumpy790
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lumpy790 4/1/2013 7:33am
4/1/2013 7:33am Edited Date/Time 4/1/2013 7:33am
CamP wrote:
You can get that nut off in about 10 seconds with a sharp chisel and hammer.
I have a small 3/8 (?) wide chisel and a small ball peen hammer just for removing stripped nuts and screws. Get it to bite in so its turning the nut in the loosen dirrection then give it a good hard smack.
Kidkawie
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Kidkawie 4/1/2013 1:35pm
4/1/2013 1:35pm
Just take a 6 point box end wrench and grind the end so it fits over the nut. A 12pt wrench may still work depending on how messed up the nut is on the other side.
526
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526 4/1/2013 1:44pm
4/1/2013 1:44pm
526 wrote:
It is a Nut not a bolt it didn't cost him $400 YET he only has ONE cover off and my 5 4 Strokes NEVER cost...
It is a Nut not a bolt

it didn't cost him $400 YET he only has ONE cover off and my 5 4 Strokes NEVER cost me $400 to rebuild. Its all about maintenance my friend.
JCollins762 wrote:
What exactly do you consider a "rebuild"? I would say your definition of a rebuild was just a piston, rings, circlips, wrist pin and gaskets.. but...
What exactly do you consider a "rebuild"?

I would say your definition of a rebuild was just a piston, rings, circlips, wrist pin and gaskets.. but you say it's all about the maintenance, which leads me to believe you do it the right way.. in which case you would replace your valves, right? But why stop there, you're all about the maintenance and "take care of the bike" attitude, you need to grab some new springs and keepers right? Heck, if you're getting new valves and springs you misewell have the seats and guides checked out a cut by a machine shop.

$270 - Piston kit
$160 - Valves
$200-400 - Valve springs(Depending on the brand, but I'm sure you go with the most expensive seeing as you're the maintenance pro.
$?? - Machine work

Don't get me wrong, I like 4 strokes.. but if you're really going to rebuild the bike the correct way then you're not gonna come out
It's a REBUILD I don't REPLACE parts that don't need to be replaced. A piston in a 4 stroke will last twice as long as a 2 stroke as it doesn't have long skirted cast fragile piston. I do a leak down test to determine where the engine is failing, and most of time it is rings that are failing so that is a part that gets REPLACED. If the valves pass the leak down test then I check the lash and IF they are to far out of adjustment then yes they get replaced. I can check the guides and seats out myself again a little measuring and you will know. I myself have not had that problem as of yet, but you have to have an open mind when going into it, not just the menatality it's cheap so just replace it.

A 2 stroke costs $75 to rebuild so yes by all means go ahead and replace everything, if you use a little mechanical knowledge it doesn't cost you $400 to rebuild a 4 stroke everytime you rebuild it. Don't get me wrong I like 2 strokes and how simple they are but don't just jump on the 2 stroke bandwagon just because.
rallendude
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rallendude 4/1/2013 8:42pm
4/1/2013 8:42pm
I'd bet a 6 pt will go on it now and turn it right off.
lostboy819 4/1/2013 9:58pm
4/1/2013 9:58pm
CamP wrote:
You can get that nut off in about 10 seconds with a sharp chisel and hammer.
lumpy790 wrote:
I have a small 3/8 (?) wide chisel and a small ball peen hammer just for removing stripped nuts and screws. Get it to bite in...
I have a small 3/8 (?) wide chisel and a small ball peen hammer just for removing stripped nuts and screws. Get it to bite in so its turning the nut in the loosen dirrection then give it a good hard smack.
X 10

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