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Well your actual idle adjustment screw is on the left side of the carb, its a small phillips head with a 8mm lock nut on it. I believe turning it in will raise the idle.. but that will be apparent while you're adjusting it.

Hop on a 250f man, I'm 170lb and I have to ride a 125 for all it has to get over most things out of a corner.

You're gonna have to be a little more specific as it pertains to WHAT you want. How do you ride? Do you like low to mid power, mid to high? Do you tend to ride on the front of the bike or the back? Where are your priorities, power? Handling? Dependability (I mean we all want a dependable bike.. but...

Correct.. and.. Correct. I feel pretty stupid with this Service manual sitting here in front me.

48MM KYBs (04 KX 125) Standard Compression: 14 clicks out (bottom clicker) Standard Rebound: 13 clicks out (top clicker) Fork Oil heights: 133-137mm is your standard range, with an adjustable range of 100-145mm.

I'm gonna agree with CamP. I purchased an RM 250 from a collector and I just threw fresh fluids in it along with an air filter I had sitting around. I believe put on some Renthal 7/8s are grips too.. but I mean, those weren't necessary.

Pull your filter off, if there isn't any gunk or dirt in your air boot then just slap the filter back on, drain your carb and replaced your oil then keep on riding. If there is some of the nasty in that air book, then smack yourself for not greasing your air filter.. then pull the carb off, give er'...

What exactly do you consider a "rebuild"? I would say your definition of a rebuild was just a piston, rings, circlips, wrist pin and gaskets.. but you say it's all about the maintenance, which leads me to believe you do it the right way.. in which case you would replace your valves, right? But why stop there, you're all about...

Had the same problem on an 03 CR 250. I had a 12 point box end wrench on it, and when the bolt didn't want to break free easy the wrench marred the piss out of the nut just like yours. Why I had that wrench in the first place is kind of beyond me, but I walked over to...

I can only assume you're speaking of the 05-07 KX style routing, where the brake line bracket mounts at the top of the fork guard then runs on the inner-side of the fork (closest to the wheel) then down to the brake caliper. If that's the case, then your best bet is to purchase a set of 05-07 KX 125-250...

^This

Haha, most likely clueless. If it were a clutch issue, you would be having the problem through every gear.. not just second.

You cant use a scotch brite with expansion pipe off? I've never tried to clean them on a New Gen honda.

Yeah, my initial thought when you said "Revving out, but I feel like I need to change gears the whole time" was clutch slippage. Although checking the Powervalve is the first thing I would do, as TJ said.. it's not hard to do, takes a couple of minutes at the most. Also go ahead and clean them if you have...

If its revving all the way out, maybe it isn't the powervalves. Typically when powervalves don't open (or at least all the way), the bike will rev and sound almost like a chainsaw in a way. If it's revving out and not going anywhere, sounds more like a clutch to me, then the lean issue is the most common thing...

As far as I know, the 02-12' should be close to identical. Don't count on my word though.