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I think it's fair to say that KTM focused on lowering production cost of the new frame. Not only by doing a one size fits all frame but by using alot more cleverly made cast parts on the frame to reduce the number of parts and welding operations. I don't think they went the cheap way but its obvious that the frame is built for a larger production volume. If this frame is used for all three brands and all models (MX and Enduro) they're going to make A LOT of them..

Got it done and took it out to break it in yesterday. What a difference the extra 50 cc's makes. Much easier to pull the front end up over stuff. I still have to dial in the suspension, put a set of handle bar risers on it, and true up the front rim a little bit. I'm real happy with the bike now. I doubt I'll ever get rid of this. Yeah it's a keeper. Lucky for me the 200 engine fits right into the 150 frame.

Here is my Haulmark 6x10 single-axle. I bought it with generic luan paneling - gutted the whole thing back down bare studs and came up with this. I just wanted something clean and functional. It could still use a seat bench for changing, but other than that, it works pretty well. The small bench up front is really handy - I use it constantly.

one of the vital bros has a an old fmf handy and I turned it into the ultimate hitch cover.

I wanted to post a follow-up to this. I had Dan grind me one of these cams, and then Todd added the Cylinder Works 366 big bore kit, his port and valve job on the head, along with a dyno tune on T4 fuel. The result was 61.5hp and 26.7tq. I rode it Saturday at NFMX, and the bike just rips. It just keeps pulling and pulling. I am very happy with the result. The dyno graph below shows the end result, and the lower numbers are with just his intake cam and everything else stock, so you can kind...

I second this. I am a trailer/RV technician and I see a lot of enclosed trailer “conversions” that are just outright horrible. I know they can be done right, but most of the time they aren’t. Just buy a used toy hauler already set up, it’ll save you time and money in the end.

That carb isn’t even in the same galaxy as the STIC/Keihin combo.

Figured I should update this post on how this build went , super nice bike now .

Use an old chain to keep it from blowing away.

Actually the opposite. The knock on the shock was it couldn't handle SX tracks. It seems strange to me that a manufacturer (Kaw) continues to use it previously with Savatgy and now with AC, but the factory team of the manufacturer that puts the shock on the bike OEM doesn't use it. Bad look to me. I've never had an issue with mine, and if you have ever worked on a shock or changed oil you would love the simplicity involved in servicing the BFRC. I have Race Tech valving front and rear on my RMZ, love it. Really, my...

Yup definitely a mod I suggest to anyone with a ktm/husky. I noticed both rear end and front end stability out of this setup. You’ll need to go up 1-2 spring rates on the shock because the rising rate is changed with the shorter bell crank. Old comparison pic for reference, highlighted on the instructions is the spring rate info. I’m not sure if I still have that paper or not.

Now get back to selling brake pads Joking, just trying to lighten the mood a little. I see where you're coming from.

I was a mechanic for a top 10 Sx and national level rider while I was in college. I raced for several years and I'm still heavily involved in the sport. The shimming came info came from the factory KTM mechanics you jackass. It's a known problem! I even posted how to fix it on vital.

Not trying to gang up on you BDad... But I disagree also, the 4CS forks aren't great but they aren't terrible after set up correct. But then again, I also bought cone valve forks. I think the moral of this thread is that everyone will have a different opinion, all you can do is take this info with a grain of salt and make your own choice. Everyone has a different feel for what they are looking for in a bike.