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Personally I'd go a few more clicks if you really want to feel a change. Ride it with just the pre load change, then add 4 clicks and decide which is the right direction. You can also go back out on those HSC clicks and try 2-4 LSC. Do this all back to back on the track, 2 laps, change, 2 laps ect. Best way is to test the options.

Check static sag firstly, should be same as before but my guess its at least 1mm more now. Start with that, and then possibly one click stiffer low speed comp and maybe 1/5 more high speed comp. You also altered the weight to be more front loaded now (in theory), and also will have more engine braking which will load suspension differently. To be honest, on a 350, you don't want to short shift it since it is so aggressive anyway.

Probably need to increase preload. when you move the wheel rearward youre effectively increasing the leverage/torque on the swingarm.

I have the same set also built in ‘14 on my ‘18 and I have them at the second line. Trax also turned off and a ride engineering performance link at 103mm sag. I have zero stability issues and it handles great.

Everyone has a different feel. Flush forks and 106 sag should be about neural to OEM. You might be feeling unstable because the short wheelbase. I run 14/52 on my 350 with the rear pretty far back. Maybe you need to adjust your clickers for a more even ride, it’s not just fork height and sag that give you balence.

Some people say they have used a half link but no idea where to buy them. If you find out I’d be stoked to try one.

I have the same forks on my 2018 Rockstar Husky and run them flush. They are 5mm shorter than the black CV forks and 10mm or so shorter than the AER fork. I have the Luxon (N2D) link and valving setup with 105mm sag.

I would double check the fork length but if it’s actually 12 mm shorter than the aer I would leave them flush with the clamps always, and run 108-110 mm of sag

Pretty much this ^ Everyone is different. They have different riding styles, are different heights and weights, different skill level, etc., so there's no one clear answer. OLn top of that, the tracks and riding types are all different. It's why I always laugh at a 1mm longer "performance link" being the answer for everyone. Have you ever seen a link sold that's shorter than stock? They're always 1mm or 1.5mm longer. You'd think the OEMs would figure out that they've been making them just a bit too short for years! Get the bike to a reasonable baseline (sag...