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I’m the same way. I have no problem spending money to find extra comfort. Doesn’t typically work out that way, but I try. That’s part of the hobby for me
Im in the market for a 350 very soon. There is a bunch of 24’s with big discounts or i can wait another 6 months & get a discount on a 2025.
Anyone that has rode both the 24 & 25 350, is there much difference chassis wise? & engine wise or are they much the same?
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Yes it does. I wouldn’t says it’s drastic but I can tell a difference. I feel like the biggest thing is that it lets you run softer settings for compression and that adds comfort in smaller braking bumps and square edge stuff.
Because im at an age where i can afford to buy cool stuff for my bike knowing full well it wont make me any faster, but it's fun and makes me smile ha ha.
For those running stock linkage -
What is your weight, rear spring rate and sag?
94kg, 48nm and 36/105
Almost identical to my numbers, running 107-109 sag at the moment. Haven’t played around with it much at the track since getting the rep linkage. Are you running .51kg fork springs with your kyb?
Running 4.9nm so 0.50kg fork springs. Bike seems nice and balanced just the shock feels slightly soft overall but mainly at the end of the stroke. Could probably get it good with a revalve.
I think the same thing when I read these. But, I then break out the credit card and buy some new shiny object that probably only affects me between the ears.
On a different note.. Getting back into riding and reading a lot of material, I find the word “comfort” is now used extensively. I’m not sure what that really means. Does it turn better, not kick on bumps, not dive, make it balanced, not bottom on jumps, soft cushy seat for the butt, or what? This word seems to mean anything by the writer, and yet nothing to the reader. Modifications always used to be described by the specific action they enabled, or prevented. Now get off my lawn!
Harsh is a word used to describe the frame characteristics thus anything purchased is to limit or lessen that sensation…
215 lbs, 51 oem wHite spring. 8mm preload aND 105mm sag
If someone wanted to go all out, can a ‘25 frame be used on a ‘23/‘24?
Understanding that the linkage and bolts are different as well as the motor mounts.
How much of an improvement is the 25 over the 24 in real terms?
I think the frame could be bolted right in.
I think the new linkage needs the new swing arm due to the smaller bolts on the new linkage but I am not 100% on this.
I don’t know. But that seems to have been the objective of the 25.
I have a 24 and while stiff, I don’t find it a real problem. It’s not slowing me down. The track has been really rough so I don’t expect it to be soft and comfy everywhere. I haven’t ridden another bike recently enough to compare so tough to really know one way or the other.
If someone was so ddelusional that the 25 frame was game changing, ssurely it would be ccheaper to buy a 2025 than go that route?
Pit Row
A frame is about the same as 6500 cartridges. Even if you added a swingarm it would be half the cost of Cone valve forks.
I have no idea if the 25 frame makes that much difference, or what real difference any of this makes. But IF someone feels it is an issue (I do not) and the 25 is better, the frame, swingarm and 6500s would be less than CVs alone.
Have you tried the KYB forks? Not convinced I need new/ modded forks, but like to hear thoughts from those who try 6500s or KYBs.
Not yet, I have the stuff to do the conversion, I just haven’t had the time yet. Some people gel with the air, I did not
Btw I have a buddy selling 6500s with less than 10 hours on them for $1000. They are setup for a 250f national rider, so they would likely need to be setup
If you have a 23/24 and notice the harshness in the front end on big hits, the 2025 engine mounts help. If you have ridden a 23/24 two stroke and can't figure out why the 4 stroke is more harsh, the 2025 engine mounts make the 24 4 stroke frame feel a lot more like the 2 stroke.
I’ve been meaning to get a set. Glad to hear they make a difference
I rode a stock 2025 450 last Saturday for a few laps at GH, and it did not feel much different than my modified 2024.
2025 bike had 12.5 hours I think.
I bought the REP link and knuckle, had the bladder conversion done on the shock, and use the 2025 FE motor mounts. I also went to 14/52, and I use a Vortex.
You guys with 23's and 24s may want to try the link and the motor mounts before you sell your bike for a 2025...
What does that link actually do? Is it shorter or longer than stock?
I can't speak for the REP link but I have the Luxon one on my '23. I run the pull arm set at the stock length, but the revised knuckle changes the ratio on the rear suspension and provides the following: Softer in the initial part of the stroke, more mid stroke hold up, and better bottoming resistance.
So you can run your compression clickers at a softer setting for more comfort in the little stuff like braking bumps but still have good hold up cornering and accelerating. The pull arm is not really required, you can just get the knuckle and run the stock pull arm.
I swapped a random FC valved 2017 YZ250F set. Amazing, butter on both my 200SX and 300SX. Just ran compression all the way out on the 200SX. A previous '23 300SX owner(faster) was very impressed. So good in the braking bumps late in the day and sticks in flat turns.
For the WP's, I have to add that the single Ohlins spring cartridge hybrid Coppersmith tune works equally well on my 200SX. Too soft a spring rate for my weight on the 300SX. I also swapped triples and plastics, so '06 on the 300SX. Ppl roll up on me all confused.
I've been hearing from vast sources... The only way to fix the '23 KTM Chassis, is to sell it and go buy a Yamaha. 🤣
Just great. Reading about some shiny object led me down the path of buying something I’m not sure I even need. But I will have cool ‘25 motor mounts on my 24! 🙃
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