The recent lowered prices on bikes has me considering a Kawasaki KX450SR.
However, when I research the KXs, invariably 'stripped threads' are mentioned as well as bad chain rollers, plastic, etc. I don't care about the easily replaced stuff, but stripped bolts and internal threads in the frame and engine would drive me crazy.
What kind of quality and durability issues have you real-world owners experienced?
I am interested in every complaint you have to see what I might be getting in to.
I don't think Kawasaki is any better or worse than the average dirt bike out there. Most of the issues I would attribute to maintenance/neglect. Bought my first Kawasaki 40+ years ago and my brother was service manager of huge multi-line motorcycle dealer in PA that carried all but Yamahas when he was there. Southeastern PA gets a lot of rust and corrosion, we had lots of mud, sand in Jersey, and rocks in the mountains. Never had any issues out of line with what other friends had on their Hon/Yam/Suz/KTM/Husq bikes. I've had a Kaw 450 and a Beta 480 and the Kaw was far better built and more reliable. In our riding group, we have all makes and models and the only issues among us for the last 15 years (besides the Beta) were due to mechanic error or lack of proper maintenance (including from me). I recently got this 1999 KX just across the street from you in Westlake (I bought some old KX triple clamps from you years ago so we have met). Look closely at the pics and you will see that it has been sitting outside for a LONG time and it was thoroughly abused. You are welcome to come over and take a look at it and turn a wrench on any nut or bolt...I did throw away the plastic so you can't see that. Text me if you still have my number or reply here (I have yours if it has not changed in a few years).
Eric
I’ve had a lot of Kawasakis and I’d say the biggest issue I’ve had is losing seat bolts and the miscellaneous shroud/side plate bolts occasionally. The chain rollers/guide are better now but still not the greatest. If that’s the biggest issue then I’ll take that all day. I’ve had a ‘16 450 that was bulletproof and I’m on a ‘21 250f that’s been rock solid for almost 80hrs now.
These aren’t the Kawi’s of the 90’s anymore…With well over 250 hours between a 2019, 2020, and 2023, I can honestly say the continued MXA branding is simply incorrect with regard to nut/bolt quality and “easy to strip” reputation. The chain rollers will need replacing sooner than other brands and certain plastics will fail given enough time and roost, but the latest generation (2019-2023) KX450’s are absolutely stellar on so many fronts. If you liked the 05’-08’ CRF450’s, this bike is for you: Easy to ride, consistent handling, very similar in feel and familiarity.
1. Buy the bike! So long as you’re comfortable having “last years” design, seeing that 2024+ is all new.
2. Set up the suspension for you: Forks may be soft for faster/ heavier (175lbs.+) riders. Can always throw oil in them as a band aid for a bit on the regular KX450, but the SR comes noticeably stiffer and better set up for real world MXers.
3. Moose Racing sells a sealed chain roller (1231-0220) that fits on the lower and upper, replacing the unsealed (and often noisy) upper. Moose also sells a chain block with a replaceable rubber that is cheap, quiet, and effective. It also doesn’t bend like the stocker for faster riders/rutted tracks.
4. Install regular new bike bits like favorite bars, grips, numbers, etc.
5. Add in a 116L chain, LightSpeed Carbon full coverage glide plate, ARC front brake lever, Twin Air filter and/or no backfire screen cage, along with Luxon bar mount kit (stock KX450 owners; KX450SR has Xtrigs) for ultimate detailing.
Live happily ever after with one of the best designs in recent memory. Any specific questions, feel free to shoot me a PM!
https://www.dirtrider.com/tests/kawasaki-kx450sr-first-ride-review-2023/
https://www.vitalmx.com/videos/features/2023-kawasaki-kx450sr-first-imp…
https://www.swapmotolive.com/what-if-we-ride-ken-roczens-pro-circuit-bu…
I've owned both 19 kx and 22 KTM and yes there is some subtle differences in hardware but all in all the KX is just as good durability wise. I have 22 350 now and will be getting a 24 kx in the spring
The Shop
Free shipping: VITALMX
Luxon 4-Post Bar Mounts
$189.95 - $239.95
DeCal Works Huge Plastic Inventory of UFO and Polisport kits.
It is a very high quality Japanese bike. Only issue I had is the chain guide gets destroyed quickly and the bolts strip off in the fuel tank. Honestly never had a serious mechanical failure that kept me from going to the track. I can't say the same for KTM
The stripping situation happens when the threads and fasteners aren't clean. Because of this....they can't find their home with the fingers. So....people start threading with the wrench and they cross thread. I stripped an engine hanger on my 2019 KX450. I tightened it to torque spec but i could just feel that it wasn't catching so i had to buy a new engine hanger. The sub-frame muffler mount broke on mine with an FMF exhaust. Known problem. The chain guide is kind of soft stock. It keeps the chain slap to a minimum but the roller wears out quickly 15-20 hours. TM Designworks fixes this but at the expense of more chain noise.
The KTM is just ok imo. I've come to that conclusion after 60 hours on my 2022 350SXF.
I’ve always used a thin coat of anti sizing compound on bolts, never had a problem,
I clean the fastener with contact cleaner and use a dab of grease
I never had a problem with the last kx I had an 04 kx125. Stripped bolts or bolts breaking is more the owners fault. Nothing ever came loose etc.
Like over tightening shroud bolts and such. Watching guys tighten shroud bolts by hand just cranking on them to like 20 pounds and then wonder why after awhile the bolt head snaps off one day.
Or Watching people just crank the shit outta their oil drain bolts. Then wonder why the threads strip out.
Besides dirty/non lubed fasteners, I cringe when I see guys working on their bikes with impact drivers.
Yeah, it doesn’t take much to tighten a plastic side plate. Tee handles are plenty good. I have used 6 volt and 12 volt clutched cordless tools and not torn anything up, just set the clutch really low. It’s still best to use a tee handle.
I use this tool a lot ot usually has the 8mm 10mm 12mm sockets on it. But it's pretty versatile with other styles that have a socket attachment as well.
As I've gotten "wiser" (older) I've started really backing off on non-critical fastener torques and relying heavily on feel. Once I hit "snug" I usually stop and call it good. To be clear, I am talking mostly about routinely removed fasteners such as plastic body panel fasteners, seat bolts, clutch covers, etc.
*** NOTE: FOR ALL STRUCTURAL MEMBERS I USE OEM MANUAL TORQUE SPECS. ***
I rationalize that snug is plenty because I am not losing fasteners and the assembly is staying tight. I also am an advocate for Blue Loctite on most fasteners that are not removed frequently. I like how Loctite "boogers" things up so that the probability of loosening is low + they are still very serviceable. I even use Loctite on frequently removed fasteners if they have a history of coming loose. That extra remaining goop is a perfect, low-grade retaining compound.
I was a victim (perpetrator?) of KX gas tank inserts stripping in the 90s. !@#$ing pain in the A$$. Let me repeat: !@#$ing pain in the A$$ - even caused leaking fuel - no bueno. This is part of my hesitation with Kawis honestly, but I need to move on ... the world has changed.
Post a reply to: Kawasaki KX Durability/Quality of Fasteners, Etc.