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Thats up to the rider to determine what their wants and needs are. Also the the conevalves arent the fix all for everyone. If anyone is thinking about conevalves they need to do their homework and also call tuners to get their thoughts. When I was doing my researching, I came across a lot of people who didnt like the conevalves because they werent setup properly or they didnt like the slightly stiffer feel for what they were doing.
In terms of cost, obviously new conevalves with a revalve and shipping costs will be the most expensive route. I believe the new ones start at $3500 before any work has been done to them. You can save money by finding a used set thats already matches your weight and discipline. If your not so lucky then you have to plan to spend at least another $500 getting them setup between the revalve, parts, springs and shipping cost. Everyones situation will be different, so costs will vary.
A lot of people like buying conevalves because you can bolt them on when you get them. Unlike the insert route where you need to take out the oem inner AER cartridge out, install the new cartridge, install springs, set oil height, etc. Having another complete set of forks helps when you decide to sell your bike and want to bolt them up to the new bike. For me, i do all my own bike work, so its no big deal to swap out the cartridges if i buy another ktm and want to move them to the new bike. The 6500 is actually the same as the conevalve cartridge minus the cone setup. The conevalve has different fork lugs as well as upper and lower tubes.
In my situation, I still spent much less money to have everything(fork & shock sprung, revalved)setup and shipped to me versus buying just a set of conevalves.
Has anyone ever had the engine die while riding, then restart a minute later? I have had this happen 2 times now on my 22 350sfx… just dies like the kill switch was pressed, then it will restart a after I let it sit a minute… I have replaced the inline fuel filter so far…
Could be water in the electrical connectors somewhere. I have 25 hours on mine and never experienced that. I did have a 17 350 that would stall intermittently due to a bad spark plug.
I had a similar issue with my 22 350xc-f. Replaced filters ect with no luck. Ended up being a small kink in the fuel line in the tank.
I replaced the fuel pump with new oem (ktm covered the cost) and its been perfect ever since.
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Thanks for chiming in guys….60hrs, original plug. I pretty much never pressure wash my bike & usually air dry after washing. Had a 21 350sfx that never did this. I just pulled tank & checked all connections, no frayed wires or bad connections that I can see. Started it up & played with connections & wires… no effect on engine running. I”m leaning towards the fuel pump….does not do it often but, can’t be riding a bike that is going to cut out at the wrong time!
My 14 450 did that. Wound up needing a fresh spark plug. Perfect ever since.
2022 FC 366 with twisted Vortex. Cone value suspenders. Perfect old man machine. 🏁
I'm getting a 350 for 2024. It's the best all around bike for me
Check for a crack in the plug cap.
Thanks for insight… I checked it over for anything obvious, pulled plug cap off, looked ok. It’s at the dealer now getting a new spark plug, valve clearance check and diagnostic on the engine dying condition. I was leaning towards fuel pump issue but shop initially thinks it’s electrical…. Should find out later this week.
Really like what you've done with your Husky! If you happen to see this, did you get the blue and grey fenders from a particular supplier? Did you do anything in particular to get SKDA to match up the colors of the fenders with their graphics?
Update on my 350 engine dying issue: shop found cylinder head around plug was packed with concrete like mud, they could not get the plug out! Had to remove the engine to get a better angle at removing the cement like mud and get the plug out. Shop tech also stated he has seen many plug caps go bad, but feels the cement like mud was causing an intermittent spark jumping issue. Everything else checked out good, so, new plug & cap. I have yet to try it out as I have been riding another bike. I rarely pressure wash my bike, but I raced a lot with this bike and all the tracks start out mud holes before they become dust bowls. Plug cap must have popped up just enough to let debris in the plug hole…. I did remove the tank & check for obvious cut wires or something before I brought the bike to the dealer, I removed the plug cap to inspect and it was difficult to get it back on, so that explains that… make sure your plug cap is snug down to the valve cover & blow out the weep hole on side of cylinder…. Shop said they have never seen this before…. Just my luck 😂
Thanks ! So I did have to go through a couple different companies to get the everything since not all of the colors were offered by a single company : The only company to offer the blue shrouds was UFO, so I went ahead and got the fender, front number plate and fork guards there since shipping from Italy was a bit more. All of the plastic from behind the shrouds came from Acerbis.
I'm decent at photoshop so I did have a pretty good template for SKDA to start from when they built the first proof, but I think even without that extra step they could get you pretty close, as long as you can translate your ideas to them.
So concept:
And finished product:
That's some new Hampshire quick Crete lol
TK40...thanks for the details on which places had the plastic color used. Have to admit, I like yours so much, may have to copy it a bit
Nice job putting it together!
No worries man, all good!
350's are AWESOME--Great all around machine.
How many of you guys that currently own the 23 350 are in 2 minds about keep them?
Im 97kg c grade weekend rider
I have a fully decked out 22 CRF450 (suspension valved & re sprung, pipe ect...) and just bought the 23 350 with 28hrs on it stock as a rock. I find the bike a little boring to ride which is strange given I rode one a few weeks prior but it had a slip on and KYB suspension. I was blown away at how good that was so when one popped up I bought it. Now I'm unsure about them but given mine has a broken map switch so its constantly set to map 1. The wait on another switch is late April to get one here in Australia & the suspension is not that great. I suppose I got misty eyed riding something well set up vs a stock version.
I' m taking both out tomorrow to try to evaluate which one to move on
Pit Row
Do yourself a favor and park the 450 and commit yourself to the 350 for 10 hours, you will just confuse yourself going back and forth as it takes a different technique to ride. At the 10 hour mark bring just the 450 out and then make your comparison. You will immediately feel how lethargic the 450 is everywhere on the track especially through the corners, you will feel the inertia from the larger motor, you feel how slow and lazy those damn things are. I listed my 450 for sale from the track after 2 laps and i was a “450 guy” before i did this… It would take a miracle to get me back on a 450!
450 makes 52hp at 9200rpm, 350 makes 48hp at 12,300rpm.
Rev that son of a B!
I’ll reiterate that question but from a different angle. Do you guys on the 23 feel like it has a distinctly more powerful engine or hit much harder than previous gens? I’ve been on the 21 and 22 for a few years now and am fairly happy with the amount of power and delivery I have now. I’ll run map 2 90% off the time. My concern before buying a 24 is I don’t necessarily want a more powerful 350. My thought being if it’s that powerful maybe I’ll look at 450 options for 24? Which opens the door to trying more brands. I was on 450s and IMO they’re just too much bike for normal Joes, but it seems like they’ve made them a bit easier to ride these days. Thoughts from people that have ridden both gens?
Agree 100%… need to be on the aggressive map. Took me 10hrs before I was riding the bike correctly coming off a 450…only took me 1 good Moto on a 350 and my 450 days were over…350”s work best for guys that still ride/ or are coming off 2t”s…
Couldn't agree more. I've had many 450s and once i put a few hours on a 23 FC350 my 22 450 is for sale and I will never own one again. Its just so much easier to have better corner speed and way less arm pump etc with the 350
You sound like a candidate for a Vortex on the 21/22 bike. I'm like you, I like the amount and character of the 20-22 power and don't really want it to hit harder. I actually used map-1 most of the time on the stock ECU. I have not ridden a 23 yet but I suspect I might be one of the guys that likes the older one better. On my 20, I have a vented airbox, 2-stroke cage, and recently put an XPR vortex on. The vortex cleaned things up and added extra pull and overrev but did not change that smooth character I like. It also eliminated that leanness that has a tendency towards a flameout. The "torque map" XPR has is really good for tight slippery tracks. I have not played with the fuel trim screws yet, but I suspect guys that want the bike to be more barky will really like using these to lean out the base map. I say this because I tried the 3,000ft elevation map, which I suspect is just a leaned out base map, and it was barky. Too barky for the slippery track I was on. I also have the Motion Pro Rev-3 throttle on with their 2nd biggest cam. Between that and the vortex, the bike is much more responsive and less lazy feeling but not overly barky or abrupt, if that makes sense.
I’ve got no problems with flameout, never even tried the vented side panel, and tried the two stroke cage, didn’t care for it, felt like it was more than I wanted. Not sure what a vortex would do for me, but also don’t want to dump money into a bike I’m trading or selling in 6 mo. Kinda figured vortex would be a better way to go if I stay 350 and need it calmed down on the 24.
The 2023 models are listed as:
450 63hp
350 57hp
I think the 23 has more power than 22. I wouldn’t say it has “more hit” but more overall torque and power.
im running a Vortex from Twisted Development which gives me a wider range of maps to chose from. There’s maps with lots of hit and connection and maps that smooth out power.
I don’t regret upgrading from my 2019 to 2023. Still trying to get my suspension dialed in. The biggest take away I have is that the 19-22 worked at many different tracks with a closer settings. I haven’t found any setup on the 23 that works everywhere, I’ve been adjusting pretty far away to get comfortable.
Thanks for the response. I’d be swapping my ohlins forks over and have heard the break in time for the new gen is pretty long.
Yeah I’m at about 8 hrs on mine. Cone valves from my previous bike. We will keep plugging away and get something working well!
Based on the rave reviews, I've been considering a vortex for my 2022 FC350.
Does it make any difference in the mappings or support on where you buy it from? Or is it a situation that regardless of where you buy it , the standard mappings that come on the ECU for a specific bike is the same regardless of where you get it?
With chip supply issues, are Vortex ECU's harder to find in stock? I'm not seeing any available on the Twisted site at the moment. XPR is indicating 4-6 weeks on delivery. Tokyo Mods shows as having them on their website and the price is decent there.
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