Posts
33
Joined
1/5/2020
Location
Mapleton Depot, PA
US
Edited Date/Time
9/30/2021 6:43am
I've never done this before and put the chain on and ran it on flat ground and seemed to be fine jist not sure of it possibly weakened the chain at all?
The Shop
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However, I don't think you need to spend $125 to replace it. I've been running the Primary Drive o-ring for a few years and have gotten 60-80 hours out of them with only one adjustment after break in. I'm not the fastest guy in the world but I can usually handle the Vet A class at a local/regional off road race pretty easily. I also know a guy who has made the gate at 3 nationals this year in the 450 class that runs them.....so for those who are inevitably going to say they are junk...how many gates you made the fast 40 for?
In saying that I wouldn’t run one on my dirt bike, I would go 2 masters while my new chain was on order
Tusk chain user here as well. Check the specs. Has a pretty high tensil strength from what I remember.
but get a new chain.
Pit Row
It will be fine, I've been re riveting chains for 50 years and not had a fail.
Most chain blocks have one side longer than the other.
Might make your bike turn better with the shorter wheelbase too.
Good luck,
Phantom
I'd double master if anything
We had chains from Husabergs that were set to the lengths of the ADR test sprockets. As in Road use gearing - well, bloody Land Speed Record gearing, on the 650s and 570s.
They were high quality DID X ring chains, that were too short for the Bergs as we set them up for real dirt use, and my 500. So, I just did what you did - had one to cut for link additions, and used 2 joining links. I didn't even use Rivet links. I kept a hawk eye on the clips, as I do with any chain. and had a few seasons worth of chains. With no problems at all. Not really the "correct" thing to do, but, needs must as they say.
Post a reply to: I cut my new chain to short and pressed one of the links back in to make it Long enough is it safe to run?