Work shop heater question.

Chopsalot
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Chopsalot 12/20/2020 9:54pm
12/20/2020 9:54pm
ama530 wrote:
HVAC engineer here. If you have natural gas or propane access, go with a Reznor or Modine hanging space heater. Super efficient and work fantastic. If...
HVAC engineer here. If you have natural gas or propane access, go with a Reznor or Modine hanging space heater. Super efficient and work fantastic. If you have oil or waste oil, check those heaters out. Electric heaters from Qmark are cheap and work great but make the meter spin. Wood or pellet stoves are fine but they can be a mess and need attention all the time. They also cost a bundle to install because of the triple-wall stove pipe you will need to run the exhaust outside. Size your unit per the following. 400 sq. ft. per 12,000btus.
Reznor is garbage. If you have used or waste oil get yourself an energy logic heater and reap the rewards. Nueraheat.com
SKIDLID
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SKIDLID 12/21/2020 2:15am
12/21/2020 2:15am
cwel11 wrote:
https://www.lowesforpros.com/pd/Mr-Heater-80000-BTU-Liquid-Propane-Radiant-Heater/1001412200 Heater $660. Gas pipe, thermostat, vent pipe probably had for another $400. Yes, depending on the tank location and ventilation difficulties it may be more...
https://www.lowesforpros.com/pd/Mr-Heater-80000-BTU-Liquid-Propane-Radi…

Heater $660. Gas pipe, thermostat, vent pipe probably had for another $400. Yes, depending on the tank location and ventilation difficulties it may be more, but 4K or really even 3K is high.
Brad460 wrote:
I’ve got this one...$400. Vent kit was another $100. Gas pipe is cheap..probably have $600 total into mine. Quickly heats our 26x38 attached garage. [img]https://p.vitalmx.com/photos/forums/2020/12/20/467048/s1200_F11C18C5_9EEE_41A8_B7FE_665199CBD152.jpg[/img]
I’ve got this one...$400. Vent kit was another $100. Gas pipe is cheap..probably have $600 total into mine. Quickly heats our 26x38 attached garage.


Mine looks very similar. I keep my garage around 48 when not out there during the winter but when I am doing something in it I turn it up to 65. In five minutes it is nice and warm.
Timo_2824
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Timo_2824 12/21/2020 3:30am
12/21/2020 3:30am
I got a 8 year old Carrier packaged RTU from a school that was getting new units. Got lucky that the office units were single phase 208 vac. It was already setup as a side discharge, so I made a pad, sat it, and ducted it in through the side of my shop. I trenched a gas line to it and now have Heating and AC when I'm working. I keep the setpoint at 40 in the winter to keep the shop from freezing, turn it up to 55 while working, any hotter and I'll start sweating. Not a fan of Carrier RTU's, they're a pain in the ass to work on, but it was free.
navalseabee
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navalseabee 12/21/2020 3:43am
12/21/2020 3:43am
Guys, I was just asking about everything metal sweating 😂
1

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ns503
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NS Toolies CA
ns503 12/21/2020 4:03am
12/21/2020 4:03am
kb228 wrote:
I use a small torpedo heater and diesel. Things do sweat. I wouldnt worry about inside the bike. Literally everything has oil or grease on it...
I use a small torpedo heater and diesel. Things do sweat. I wouldnt worry about inside the bike. Literally everything has oil or grease on it. You should worry more about your tools and tool box.

If your shop has power you can set up a mini split. Theyre not that expensive and will heat/cool the shop all year long.
Chris_Buehler wrote:
Mini splits are expensive as fuck
No more than a pellet stove install, and way cheaper fuel costs. Comparing fuels here anyway.

I would hands down do mini-split. A cold climate one. Cost a bit more up front but the efficiency gain is worth it. We put 2 Daikins in our house a couple years ago. Someone above said 40 amp circuit. Ours are 20 amp circuits. They likely work the best on set it & forget it, but they can also put quite a bit of heat in a room in an hour for recovering - and most controls have timers built in. Plus, a/c is a bonus and costs even less to run for that than heat. Like, practically free, they use so little juice. No chasing pellets or wood or the LP truck. Just vacuum the filters a couple few times a year.
2
kage173
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kage173 12/21/2020 4:33am
12/21/2020 4:33am Edited Date/Time 12/21/2020 4:34am
bigk218 wrote:
These are used in aircraft but I’m sure they can be adapted to motorcycle with a little engeneering. [img]https://p.vitalmx.com/photos/forums/2020/12/20/466918/s1200_51686496_28BB_400C_8C7B_A5E514895E9B.jpg[/img]
These are used in aircraft but I’m sure they can be adapted to motorcycle with a little engeneering.

The one person who addressed the actual topic of the OP gets downvoted. Yall need a vacation
AxlBundy
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AxlBundy 12/21/2020 4:46am
12/21/2020 4:46am Edited Date/Time 12/21/2020 4:57am
Buddy has one of these, works great. quiet, no stink
https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_503598_503598

I have a Kerosene job site style heater. puts put good heat, but it is loud as hell, stinks. burns your eyes. Works great outside if you need focused heat somewhere, but Ive got to get one of the above heaters to work in the garage in winter

This is of course the ghetto real garage type fix, not the glorious "I have epoxy floors and a wife that loves me" fix
Camp332
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Camp332 12/21/2020 5:31am
12/21/2020 5:31am Edited Date/Time 12/21/2020 5:33am
kb228 wrote:
I use a small torpedo heater and diesel. Things do sweat. I wouldnt worry about inside the bike. Literally everything has oil or grease on it...
I use a small torpedo heater and diesel. Things do sweat. I wouldnt worry about inside the bike. Literally everything has oil or grease on it. You should worry more about your tools and tool box.

If your shop has power you can set up a mini split. Theyre not that expensive and will heat/cool the shop all year long.
Chris_Buehler wrote:
Mini splits are expensive as fuck
ns503 wrote:
No more than a pellet stove install, and way cheaper fuel costs. Comparing fuels here anyway. I would hands down do mini-split. A cold climate one...
No more than a pellet stove install, and way cheaper fuel costs. Comparing fuels here anyway.

I would hands down do mini-split. A cold climate one. Cost a bit more up front but the efficiency gain is worth it. We put 2 Daikins in our house a couple years ago. Someone above said 40 amp circuit. Ours are 20 amp circuits. They likely work the best on set it & forget it, but they can also put quite a bit of heat in a room in an hour for recovering - and most controls have timers built in. Plus, a/c is a bonus and costs even less to run for that than heat. Like, practically free, they use so little juice. No chasing pellets or wood or the LP truck. Just vacuum the filters a couple few times a year.
That was me with the 40Amp breaker going to my Daikin. My bro inlaw is the HVAC guy, who was the brains behind the install ( I just did the labor ). Anyway, this thing is amazing. I use the timer over night for the heat to go off around 11pm and on at 6am.
1
kb228
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kb228 12/21/2020 6:06am
12/21/2020 6:06am
Chris_Buehler wrote:
Mini splits are expensive as fuck
ns503 wrote:
No more than a pellet stove install, and way cheaper fuel costs. Comparing fuels here anyway. I would hands down do mini-split. A cold climate one...
No more than a pellet stove install, and way cheaper fuel costs. Comparing fuels here anyway.

I would hands down do mini-split. A cold climate one. Cost a bit more up front but the efficiency gain is worth it. We put 2 Daikins in our house a couple years ago. Someone above said 40 amp circuit. Ours are 20 amp circuits. They likely work the best on set it & forget it, but they can also put quite a bit of heat in a room in an hour for recovering - and most controls have timers built in. Plus, a/c is a bonus and costs even less to run for that than heat. Like, practically free, they use so little juice. No chasing pellets or wood or the LP truck. Just vacuum the filters a couple few times a year.
Camp332 wrote:
That was me with the 40Amp breaker going to my Daikin. My bro inlaw is the HVAC guy, who was the brains behind the install (...
That was me with the 40Amp breaker going to my Daikin. My bro inlaw is the HVAC guy, who was the brains behind the install ( I just did the labor ). Anyway, this thing is amazing. I use the timer over night for the heat to go off around 11pm and on at 6am.
We have them in my company as well. Every office has their own temp control. My boss has one in his barn/shop and that one mini split heats and cools the 6-car downstairs portion.

The bonus of a/c speaks for itself. My garage will be 100F+ in the ceiling and close to that inside all summer. I dont even like being in there at all. A mini split would be great if i had 220 out there.
1
charlie68
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charlie68 12/21/2020 7:08am
12/21/2020 7:08am
ns503 wrote:
No more than a pellet stove install, and way cheaper fuel costs. Comparing fuels here anyway. I would hands down do mini-split. A cold climate one...
No more than a pellet stove install, and way cheaper fuel costs. Comparing fuels here anyway.

I would hands down do mini-split. A cold climate one. Cost a bit more up front but the efficiency gain is worth it. We put 2 Daikins in our house a couple years ago. Someone above said 40 amp circuit. Ours are 20 amp circuits. They likely work the best on set it & forget it, but they can also put quite a bit of heat in a room in an hour for recovering - and most controls have timers built in. Plus, a/c is a bonus and costs even less to run for that than heat. Like, practically free, they use so little juice. No chasing pellets or wood or the LP truck. Just vacuum the filters a couple few times a year.
Camp332 wrote:
That was me with the 40Amp breaker going to my Daikin. My bro inlaw is the HVAC guy, who was the brains behind the install (...
That was me with the 40Amp breaker going to my Daikin. My bro inlaw is the HVAC guy, who was the brains behind the install ( I just did the labor ). Anyway, this thing is amazing. I use the timer over night for the heat to go off around 11pm and on at 6am.
kb228 wrote:
We have them in my company as well. Every office has their own temp control. My boss has one in his barn/shop and that one mini...
We have them in my company as well. Every office has their own temp control. My boss has one in his barn/shop and that one mini split heats and cools the 6-car downstairs portion.

The bonus of a/c speaks for itself. My garage will be 100F+ in the ceiling and close to that inside all summer. I dont even like being in there at all. A mini split would be great if i had 220 out there.
Pioneer makes units that run on 120v.....
charlie68
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charlie68 12/21/2020 7:10am
12/21/2020 7:10am
navalseabee wrote:
Guys, I was just asking about everything metal sweating 😂
Unless you have rapid temp swings, I doubt you would have to deal with and condensation problems.
Moto88
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Moto88 12/21/2020 8:38am
12/21/2020 8:38am
navalseabee wrote:
So it’s starting to get too cold to work in my shop without a heat. I’m concerned however that if I warm it up in there...
So it’s starting to get too cold to work in my shop without a heat. I’m concerned however that if I warm it up in there and then let it get cold again or take a bike outside that everything will sweat and get water in places it shouldn’t be I.e. cylinders,suspension, steel fuel pales etc. Am I worried for nothing?
Might get better answers knowing what state you live in, what the shop is built like, and if you have any type of insulation in the walls or ceiling. I have 2 shops, one wood w no insulation-tools sweat. The other metal, closed cell insulated (1/4-2” thick, sprayer did a sh*tty job) but no sweating and temp inside stays “better” than outside. I’m in TX.
ama530
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ama530 12/21/2020 10:18am
12/21/2020 10:18am
ama530 wrote:
HVAC engineer here. If you have natural gas or propane access, go with a Reznor or Modine hanging space heater. Super efficient and work fantastic. If...
HVAC engineer here. If you have natural gas or propane access, go with a Reznor or Modine hanging space heater. Super efficient and work fantastic. If you have oil or waste oil, check those heaters out. Electric heaters from Qmark are cheap and work great but make the meter spin. Wood or pellet stoves are fine but they can be a mess and need attention all the time. They also cost a bundle to install because of the triple-wall stove pipe you will need to run the exhaust outside. Size your unit per the following. 400 sq. ft. per 12,000btus.
Chopsalot wrote:
Reznor is garbage. If you have used or waste oil get yourself an energy logic heater and reap the rewards. Nueraheat.com
Reznor is garbage? That's interesting since I have facilities that have 40+ year old units that are still working fine. I want to see the Lowe's Mr. Heaters in 40 years. And I pray for anyone who does a DIY gas furnace and has a problem with it where an insurance company gets involved.
WoodsRacer 12/21/2020 11:59am
12/21/2020 11:59am
cwel11 wrote:
https://www.lowesforpros.com/pd/Mr-Heater-80000-BTU-Liquid-Propane-Radiant-Heater/1001412200 Heater $660. Gas pipe, thermostat, vent pipe probably had for another $400. Yes, depending on the tank location and ventilation difficulties it may be more...
https://www.lowesforpros.com/pd/Mr-Heater-80000-BTU-Liquid-Propane-Radi…

Heater $660. Gas pipe, thermostat, vent pipe probably had for another $400. Yes, depending on the tank location and ventilation difficulties it may be more, but 4K or really even 3K is high.
Brad460 wrote:
I’ve got this one...$400. Vent kit was another $100. Gas pipe is cheap..probably have $600 total into mine. Quickly heats our 26x38 attached garage. [img]https://p.vitalmx.com/photos/forums/2020/12/20/467048/s1200_F11C18C5_9EEE_41A8_B7FE_665199CBD152.jpg[/img]
I’ve got this one...$400. Vent kit was another $100. Gas pipe is cheap..probably have $600 total into mine. Quickly heats our 26x38 attached garage.


I just installed the same thing into my work shop. After the heater, exhaust, some uni strut, wire, thermostat, propane line and a 100lb propane tank and regulator its hooked to outside I'm all in for $750. I will be upgrading the thermostat shortly to a WIFI connected one shortly. Can get them for $50 through the local electric company after rebates. Will make it super slick to kick on shop heat from my phone right when I leave work.

Now, for the OPs original question. In the winter the air moisture content is typically pretty low given the saturation point is minimal, so you don't have to worry to much about condensation, or water getting where it shouldn't be. However, one big exception, if you do a propane heater do not get an open flame heater, you have to get one that vents the exhaust outside. Reason being is when you burn propane the chemical reaction is C3H8(g)+5O2(g)→3CO2(g)+4H2O(g). What this means in simple terms is for every one part of propane you burn you create 4 parts water. This adds a ton of moisture into the air from the heater, which will condense on tools, parts, whatever, and start to rust/corrode them.

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