17' TC250 Jetting Help

riv187
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12/20/2017 6:15am
Now knowing you guys are engineers partially explains the hard-headedness. I am guilty of being both (a hard-headed engineer). Without fixing the squish on the stock...
Now knowing you guys are engineers partially explains the hard-headedness. I am guilty of being both (a hard-headed engineer).

Without fixing the squish on the stock head, I doubt you will ever get the TMX to really run great. I took the easy route of having the head cut (by 0.020") without reshaping the combustion chamber. It worked great and my jetting is very reliable and stable now. I also calculated the CCR and UCCR on the cut head, and found that it still falls within the ranges that many agree are ok on pump gas. To note, I have run one partial tank of 87 octane and had some minor pinging at full throttle and high load. No other issues ever on 93 octane mixed at 32:1. A splash of AVgas with whatever grade pump gas you want to run will probably work fine as well.

I have experienced the same thing on a previous Honda CR250: TMX sucked with stock squish, and then worked great after being corrected. Similarly, the bike ran pretty good with the PWK and a bad squish, and ran better after having squish corrected, but not as good as the TMX with corrected squish.

Moral of the story: fix your squish however you deem appropriate. Then you won't have to chase your tail on jetting.

PS: I compared the 36mm PWK, 38mm PWK, and 38mm TMX on my CR250 and liked the TMX best:
https://thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/1191880-carburetor-heresy-i-like-m…

PPS: the STIC metering block is an interesting design. I read the patent application sometime back. Field reports all say it works great (but requires higher octane fuel and other jetting changes). Too pricey for me at $400.


I have a spare head now, just haven't had the time to measure current squish to see how much I need to mill off. Definitely get...
I have a spare head now, just haven't had the time to measure current squish to see how much I need to mill off. Definitely get to it next week.
Hi SDhusky, Did you get the head cut or reshaped? and what did you set squish? Im still bone stock on my 17,except a 460 mainjet and 40-1 race gas not great..but waiting for the easy fix
Thanks
sdhuskyrider
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12/20/2017 10:49am
Now knowing you guys are engineers partially explains the hard-headedness. I am guilty of being both (a hard-headed engineer). Without fixing the squish on the stock...
Now knowing you guys are engineers partially explains the hard-headedness. I am guilty of being both (a hard-headed engineer).

Without fixing the squish on the stock head, I doubt you will ever get the TMX to really run great. I took the easy route of having the head cut (by 0.020") without reshaping the combustion chamber. It worked great and my jetting is very reliable and stable now. I also calculated the CCR and UCCR on the cut head, and found that it still falls within the ranges that many agree are ok on pump gas. To note, I have run one partial tank of 87 octane and had some minor pinging at full throttle and high load. No other issues ever on 93 octane mixed at 32:1. A splash of AVgas with whatever grade pump gas you want to run will probably work fine as well.

I have experienced the same thing on a previous Honda CR250: TMX sucked with stock squish, and then worked great after being corrected. Similarly, the bike ran pretty good with the PWK and a bad squish, and ran better after having squish corrected, but not as good as the TMX with corrected squish.

Moral of the story: fix your squish however you deem appropriate. Then you won't have to chase your tail on jetting.

PS: I compared the 36mm PWK, 38mm PWK, and 38mm TMX on my CR250 and liked the TMX best:
https://thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/1191880-carburetor-heresy-i-like-m…

PPS: the STIC metering block is an interesting design. I read the patent application sometime back. Field reports all say it works great (but requires higher octane fuel and other jetting changes). Too pricey for me at $400.


I have a spare head now, just haven't had the time to measure current squish to see how much I need to mill off. Definitely get...
I have a spare head now, just haven't had the time to measure current squish to see how much I need to mill off. Definitely get to it next week.
riv187 wrote:
Hi SDhusky, Did you get the head cut or reshaped? and what did you set squish? Im still bone stock on my 17,except a 460 mainjet...
Hi SDhusky, Did you get the head cut or reshaped? and what did you set squish? Im still bone stock on my 17,except a 460 mainjet and 40-1 race gas not great..but waiting for the easy fix
Thanks
Not yet. I am going to measure squish today and get the head sent out to XPR for the milling and recutting. I have not decided what to set squish at. I would like to do .040" but I have heard that I should be looser than that with the STIC metering block. I have a spare head now so maybe I'll do .040" on this first head and .050" on the other to run with the STIC.
Jensenyo
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12/20/2017 1:02pm
I did check squish on my stock 250sx 2017 and got just under 2mm (!) which equals to almost 0.080" said google.
Having trouble jetting my bike aswell, especially since I run some more technical stuff in cold Sweden atm. Stock jetting has worked good on faster motocross tracks earler this season but it loads up bad in the woods, Right now in on JD kit with larger main jet and its more crisp but makes tthe bike hit a lot harder. Making it also harder to ride, feels almost lean in the midrange.
sdhuskyrider
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12/21/2017 9:09pm
Pulled the head today to measure squish. Got a nice burn pattern developing at least. My calipers are buried so I can't measure the solder. It's about 1.5mm though so roughly .060". I'm going to try to get it milled tomorrow so I can test on Saturday.

The Shop

AJ565
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12/22/2017 6:15am
Dang, now we won't know if the #6 slide fixed the problem or milling the head did if you get it done today.
riv187
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12/22/2017 6:31am
[img]https://p.vitalmx.com/photos/forums/2017/12/21/233456/s1200_20171221_180617.jpg[/img]


I would love the opinion of a porting specialist like Eic Gorr looking at that burn pattern. It's heart shape and offset to one side would make me think one side is over powering the other. Maybe power there if the porting balanced the heart?
slipdog
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12/22/2017 7:25am
[img]https://p.vitalmx.com/photos/forums/2017/12/21/233456/s1200_20171221_180617.jpg[/img]


riv187 wrote:
I would love the opinion of a porting specialist like Eic Gorr looking at that burn pattern. It's heart shape and offset to one side would...
I would love the opinion of a porting specialist like Eic Gorr looking at that burn pattern. It's heart shape and offset to one side would make me think one side is over powering the other. Maybe power there if the porting balanced the heart?
Yes there's power there. Mine was offset to one side on the transfers about .25mm, which is not uncommon for a stock cylinder. I got gains everywhere with a very noticeable mid and top boost from matching and height changes when I ported it.
sdhuskyrider
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12/22/2017 8:09am
AJ565 wrote:
Dang, now we won't know if the #6 slide fixed the problem or milling the head did if you get it done today.
I have the uncut head still. I'll keep going with it in the name of science lol. Given the feedback, I think poor squish tolerance is the root cause of the jetting woes. Though, Chad over at XPR seemed to disagree. He said leave the head alone and port it and that would fix it.
sdhuskyrider
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12/22/2017 8:14am
[img]https://p.vitalmx.com/photos/forums/2017/12/21/233456/s1200_20171221_180617.jpg[/img]


riv187 wrote:
I would love the opinion of a porting specialist like Eic Gorr looking at that burn pattern. It's heart shape and offset to one side would...
I would love the opinion of a porting specialist like Eic Gorr looking at that burn pattern. It's heart shape and offset to one side would make me think one side is over powering the other. Maybe power there if the porting balanced the heart?
slipdog wrote:
Yes there's power there. Mine was offset to one side on the transfers about .25mm, which is not uncommon for a stock cylinder. I got gains...
Yes there's power there. Mine was offset to one side on the transfers about .25mm, which is not uncommon for a stock cylinder. I got gains everywhere with a very noticeable mid and top boost from matching and height changes when I ported it.
Would be interesting to see what that equates to on the dyno and what the factory left on the shelf in terms of power and ridability.
slipdog
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12/22/2017 8:49am
Would be interesting to see what that equates to on the dyno and what the factory left on the shelf in terms of power and ridability.
I was a little bummed when I called my bud that builds sport bike engines and he had just sold off his dyno. I advised him on suspension and he let me use his dyno whenever i wanted over the past 5-6yrs. He decided to close up and go back as a full time diesel repair shop about 3 weeks before I hit him up to do the baseline run.

Anyway, gains felt "similar" to what I got out of the YZ 250 cylinder/head mod which was 4.5 peak with extended front and back side curve. Can't say for sure it was quite that much, but my point is any decent motor guy should be able to get a reasonable gain out of that motor.
sandman768
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12/22/2017 9:16am
AJ565 wrote:
Dang, now we won't know if the #6 slide fixed the problem or milling the head did if you get it done today.
I"m waiting on the same! I will just order the #6 slide for when I go back to fla in a few weeks...I don't know that much about head volume & squish measurements... What is a good, safe, measurement? I don't mind running race gas, currently run 50/50 race & non ethanol...
sdhuskyrider
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12/22/2017 9:55pm
Had another lengthy conversation with Chad at XPR and I think I am going to stay away from milling the head. His sentiment is that the head is fine, even at .060" squish tolerance. If I were to tighten the squish, then I would need to completely redesign the chamber. A costly endevour (because I would be paying for dyno and test time) and not so effective means of correcting the carburetion. Apparently you lose a lot up top for a little bit down low on this bike. He claims to have a solid porting package that adds 10 hp at peak, fixes jetting, makes the bike more rideable and opens up gearing options. Of course, he could just be trying to sell me.

For now I am going to carry on with the untouched head. I am going to look for other issues as well. Once I have my baseline established I will bring the bike to Chad for a dyno run to see how well I got it to run and THEN I'll start throwing stuff at it.

I'l be at Pala testing tomorrow if anyone would like to come by and shoot the shit.

erik_94COBRA
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12/24/2017 6:39am Edited Date/Time 12/24/2017 7:05am
Had another lengthy conversation with Chad at XPR and I think I am going to stay away from milling the head. His sentiment is that the...
Had another lengthy conversation with Chad at XPR and I think I am going to stay away from milling the head. His sentiment is that the head is fine, even at .060" squish tolerance. If I were to tighten the squish, then I would need to completely redesign the chamber. A costly endevour (because I would be paying for dyno and test time) and not so effective means of correcting the carburetion. Apparently you lose a lot up top for a little bit down low on this bike. He claims to have a solid porting package that adds 10 hp at peak, fixes jetting, makes the bike more rideable and opens up gearing options. Of course, he could just be trying to sell me.

For now I am going to carry on with the untouched head. I am going to look for other issues as well. Once I have my baseline established I will bring the bike to Chad for a dyno run to see how well I got it to run and THEN I'll start throwing stuff at it.

I'l be at Pala testing tomorrow if anyone would like to come by and shoot the shit.

Don't know your tuner, but sounds like he's up-selling you pretty hard. $50 to cut head at a machine shop, or $400+ to port + $??? to dyno.

The head can be milled leaving the combustion chamber untouched. KTM's do have a slightly different squish profile on the later model 250SX compared to earlier models or Japanese bikes. See attached pic (courtesy of TT).




On my bike, if there were any loss up it was minimal. Going to very high compression (race gas territory) with no other changes will impact top end for sure, though. The crispness down low was also very worth the trade off to me. Further, after adding a PC exhaust I have significantly more top end and overrev than ever.

Another jetting reference point: was 50 degrees Fahr yesterday and had to tweak jetting after adding the PC pipe/silencer. Ended up with pilot at 27.5, JD blue needle on clip 4.5, and main at 450. Air screw at 2.0 was not bad, but think I could go out a turn or two to clean up off idle a bit more.

Edit: forgot to mention that I'm now running 14/48 gearing.

https://youtu.be/_-4as7XQKCw?start=8
1
sandman768
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12/24/2017 7:10am
The claim of 10 more hp would have me looking elsewhere.....94 cobra: I think the end of your post sums up what these bikes needs the most..." To clean up off idle abit more" .... That is what I was hoping the leaner slide would correct. the leaner pilot & richer main jets get the bike very close, just a slight off idle flat/ rich spot that requires a touch of the clutch to get past & into the midrange/top end where the bike pulls hard...
paddyB745
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12/24/2017 4:58pm


First ride on my 17 today. 50 degrees, sea level. Ran it with the stock jetting, felt pretty good maybe a little blubbery when rolling on the throttle. Went up 1 position on the needle (second from the top) and it was crisp throughout. Running Sunoco 112 50/50 with 91. Motorex synthetic at 50:1. Vforce 4 and a turbine core 2.1 slip on. So far I’m happy with it as is, plenty of power pulled hard and smooth off the bottom.
rollin64caddy
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12/28/2017 5:40pm
this probably wont help the OP but, I had my head milled and finally have a brief ride report. I rode all of 15 min at pala which is at 500 ft elevation with stock jetting and by seat of pants feel, bike felt cleaner with slightly more power. my second ride was at Cahuilla at 3800-3900 ft elevation. at Cahuilla I went to down to a 430 main jet and moved up one position on the needle. not sure if it was more the carb adjustment or the head being milled but I was very happy with how it ran at higher elevation. no hanging idle, or feeling of fuel starvation after sustained high rpm's. I have some more tweaking to do but bike runs as strong as it should now. Smile i'll be out at Cahuilla again this weekend may lean it out a tad more and see if it likes it.
paddyB745
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12/28/2017 9:47pm
Anyone know if an 02 rm250 carb will work on this bike? I can get one cheap just curious to test them back to back. Pretty sure that’s the short body carb just wanted to double check.
40
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12/30/2017 12:37pm Edited Date/Time 12/31/2017 9:11am
paddyB745 wrote:
Anyone know if an 02 rm250 carb will work on this bike? I can get one cheap just curious to test them back to back. Pretty...
Anyone know if an 02 rm250 carb will work on this bike? I can get one cheap just curious to test them back to back. Pretty sure that’s the short body carb just wanted to double check.
The 02 RM250 used the short body PWK Air Striker with Throttle Position Sensor, and Powerjet. The short body carbs measure 75mm front to rear and should fit.
If you use this carb, be sure to block off the powerjet circuit since the stock KTM ECU can not operate it. The powerjet circuit is operated by an electric soleniod which closes the circuit when the solenoid is energized, and opens the circuit when the solenoid is not powered. This means that since the circuit will never be powered closed on the KTM, it will be continuously flowing fuel unless it is blocked off and will mess up your overall jetting. A simple way to block the circuit is to remove the actual brass powerjet jet and either solder or epoxy it closed and re-install, or just remove the jet entirely and install a threaded plug.
The same procedure is also required if you're retrofitting a carb from a YZ or KX which also use a Powerjet.
40
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12/30/2017 12:40pm
sandman768 wrote:
I"m waiting on the same! I will just order the #6 slide for when I go back to fla in a few weeks...I don't know that...
I"m waiting on the same! I will just order the #6 slide for when I go back to fla in a few weeks...I don't know that much about head volume & squish measurements... What is a good, safe, measurement? I don't mind running race gas, currently run 50/50 race & non ethanol...
Here's the way to measure squish:
http://www.rb-designs.com/rb_designs_llc_017.htm
A good number for 250's is 0.045"
sdhuskyrider
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12/30/2017 4:10pm Edited Date/Time 1/2/2018 8:00am
this probably wont help the OP but, I had my head milled and finally have a brief ride report. I rode all of 15 min at...
this probably wont help the OP but, I had my head milled and finally have a brief ride report. I rode all of 15 min at pala which is at 500 ft elevation with stock jetting and by seat of pants feel, bike felt cleaner with slightly more power. my second ride was at Cahuilla at 3800-3900 ft elevation. at Cahuilla I went to down to a 430 main jet and moved up one position on the needle. not sure if it was more the carb adjustment or the head being milled but I was very happy with how it ran at higher elevation. no hanging idle, or feeling of fuel starvation after sustained high rpm's. I have some more tweaking to do but bike runs as strong as it should now. Smile i'll be out at Cahuilla again this weekend may lean it out a tad more and see if it likes it.
I ended up a Cauhilla today (Pala was closed for the RV amateur cup...gawd I hate that guy. That didn't make it any better) for a few hours which threw me for a bit of a loop BUT I think I can conclude that 6.0 slide is much better. Between the 6.0 slide, the elevation increase to 4000ish, the PC R-304 silencer and me sitting on my ass all December and gaining 5 lbs, the bike was handful. It felt like adding a tooth on the rear sprocket but gear to gear distance didn't close any. My best setting:

4000ft
75F
6.0 slide
27.5 Pilot 3 turns out
450 Main
43-73 in POS #3
S-1 NJ

With this setup and location I could drop pilot to 25 (didn't have one but) but the bike was as smooth as it's ever been. One thing I noticed and didn't quite have time to sort out was that if I cracked the throttle from idle to WOT with the bike in neutral on the stand it didn't rev up right away. Had a momentary Waaa sound. It went waaaREEEEENG. On the track I didn't notice it though. I'm thinking the 42-75 needle will fix that. I just didn't have time to make the swap by the time I got to that point. There's certainly more that could be done and today's test should be taken with a grain of salt given the changes. I do feel the 6.0 is a step in the right direction BUT a 5.5 might be worth a shot depending on where you ride. I think we can also validate Diggers recommendation for a starting point as well, although I didn't use the S-4 NJ yet.

Are you going to Cauhilla on Monday?

EDIT: I had posted that the 4.0 slide is much better...I meant the 6.0.
sandman768
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12/30/2017 7:24pm
sandman768 wrote:
I"m waiting on the same! I will just order the #6 slide for when I go back to fla in a few weeks...I don't know that...
I"m waiting on the same! I will just order the #6 slide for when I go back to fla in a few weeks...I don't know that much about head volume & squish measurements... What is a good, safe, measurement? I don't mind running race gas, currently run 50/50 race & non ethanol...
40 wrote:
Here's the way to measure squish:
http://www.rb-designs.com/rb_designs_llc_017.htm
A good number for 250's is 0.045"
Thanks 40....looks easy enough. need to learn how to do this sooner or later...
sdhuskyrider
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12/30/2017 7:37pm
AJ565 wrote:
Dang, now we won't know if the #6 slide fixed the problem or milling the head did if you get it done today.
I only have an hour or two testing it but it works as far as I can tell. I still need to make some adjustments but the bike felt really good today. Next weekend I'll be able to really validate it when I can get back to Pala. Next weekend I'm going to put the stock silencer back on so I can get a better idea of how it effects jetting and power.
40
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12/31/2017 9:02am Edited Date/Time 12/31/2017 9:15am
sandman768 wrote:
Thanks 40....looks easy enough. need to learn how to do this sooner or later...
It's extremely easy.
RB's instructions even tell you which NAPA part numbers to use when you purchase the test solder.
AJ565
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1/2/2018 7:23am
I went out on Sunday and road with the the following settings

MJ started with 450, but it was to lean and went to 460
PJ 32.5
AS 2.0 turns out
NJ S-4
Needle 42-75 3rd clip
Slide 5.75
Straight C12 mixed 60:1 with amsoil dominator
40*F and 650'-700'

The bike is a rocket now. I have noticed less over rev. I think I need a bigger main jet, but I didn't have one with me so I can't confirm. I'm sure once its warmer out that this jetting will be right on. No bog anywhere, no hanging idle, just crisp power at the touch of the throttle.
1
sdhuskyrider
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1/2/2018 8:07am
AJ565 wrote:
I went out on Sunday and road with the the following settings MJ started with 450, but it was to lean and went to 460 PJ...
I went out on Sunday and road with the the following settings

MJ started with 450, but it was to lean and went to 460
PJ 32.5
AS 2.0 turns out
NJ S-4
Needle 42-75 3rd clip
Slide 5.75
Straight C12 mixed 60:1 with amsoil dominator
40*F and 650'-700'

The bike is a rocket now. I have noticed less over rev. I think I need a bigger main jet, but I didn't have one with me so I can't confirm. I'm sure once its warmer out that this jetting will be right on. No bog anywhere, no hanging idle, just crisp power at the touch of the throttle.
Kick ass! Reading that, I think I'll go ahead and install the S-4 NJ and 42-75 needle this week. I am glad we are getting similar results and your results are skewed just right off of mine for the lower temperatures you are running in to boot. Looks we are closing in a solid baseline for others to go off of. Should have just listened to Digger in the first place Silly But I like the journey as much as the destination. Hopefully someone at KTM/Husky is reading this thread!
AJ565
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1/2/2018 8:25am
I think it will come down to a main jet and a pilot jet now and I feel a 465 or 470 would have worked better for me since I was losing some over rev, I didn't have them to try though. I'll have to look at the plug and see how she was running. When I checked with the 450 it was an off white/red color, the oil I run is red so thats explains the red. I didn't check it with the 460. The 32.5 is the smallest jet I had from the JD jet kit, but to be honest, I don't spend much time less than 1/4 throttle. I didn't have any problems with it being to rich on the bottom end so I'll probably order a few smaller ones for when it gets warmer out just in case. However, as it is right now I can tell you that by the seat of pants dyno, the bike is a rocket. More so than it was before and my hands actually hurt from holding onto the bike trying to rip me off pulling so hard.
endurox
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1/2/2018 11:19am
Hope to get out Friday as will warm up to 38 degrees. Last ride tested the increase material taken off slide. Probably about a 5.70 cutaway. Ran a 42 pilot and jd blue needle at 2.5. Idle too rich and needle to lean. So will try a 40 pilot and 3 on the needle. Have a 450 main. Had a chance to compare my 150 xc-w with a Husky te 150. His is stock other than jd jetting kit. Huge difference in pull and hit. I have a VHM head and the 4r reed cage. So good to be able to compare bikes as little changes sometimes hard to tell. Going to have a splitter put in carb later this month which in the past 125/150's has added even more botttom end.
AJ565
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1/5/2018 1:52pm Edited Date/Time 1/5/2018 1:53pm
Some video from Sunday. This was later in the day so I was tired, slow, and made a few mistakes so take it easy on me. The camera is the new Garmin Virb. its pretty sick and has way better sound than my gopro did.

opyguy
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1/5/2018 3:42pm
Just curious why did you go from S1 to S4 on needle jet?

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