17' TC250 Jetting Help

Keating
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Location
Spring, TX US
9/26/2018 9:48am
What parts do I need to replace on my 17' before the kickstarter breaks my cases? Looks like the idler gear system changed but, the only...
What parts do I need to replace on my 17' before the kickstarter breaks my cases? Looks like the idler gear system changed but, the only thing I can do is install the longer bolt.
BR8ES wrote:
If you are running the 17 cases, only thing you can do is the long bolt mod. Otherwise it is the 18 cases, updated idler gear...
If you are running the 17 cases, only thing you can do is the long bolt mod. Otherwise it is the 18 cases, updated idler gear, etc. Pretty involved. I would just do the long bolt mod and ride on, lots of people with the original 12mm bolt and plenty of hours. Am 18-20mm bolt should keep you in the clear.

I have all the 18 parts finally, will probably wait til the off season at this point for the update.
What parts are different from the 17 to the 18? I see on the parts fish that the 18 comes with a longer bolt.... Are there any other changes that you can see??
BR8ES
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Bennett, CO US
9/26/2018 1:12pm Edited Date/Time 9/26/2018 1:13pm
What parts do I need to replace on my 17' before the kickstarter breaks my cases? Looks like the idler gear system changed but, the only...
What parts do I need to replace on my 17' before the kickstarter breaks my cases? Looks like the idler gear system changed but, the only thing I can do is install the longer bolt.
BR8ES wrote:
If you are running the 17 cases, only thing you can do is the long bolt mod. Otherwise it is the 18 cases, updated idler gear...
If you are running the 17 cases, only thing you can do is the long bolt mod. Otherwise it is the 18 cases, updated idler gear, etc. Pretty involved. I would just do the long bolt mod and ride on, lots of people with the original 12mm bolt and plenty of hours. Am 18-20mm bolt should keep you in the clear.

I have all the 18 parts finally, will probably wait til the off season at this point for the update.
Keating wrote:
What parts are different from the 17 to the 18? I see on the parts fish that the 18 comes with a longer bolt.... Are there...
What parts are different from the 17 to the 18? I see on the parts fish that the 18 comes with a longer bolt.... Are there any other changes that you can see??
longer bolt is only part of it, the case has casting enforcements in the area, idler is held with a circlip instead just a bolt, idler gear & bushing is updated,etc. I bought all this stuff and it is just sitting in a box. I have yet to hear of anybody breaking the idler gear/case with the 18-20mm long bolt mod in the stock '17 case. Just do that and you should be fine.
Keating
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Spring, TX US
9/26/2018 8:02pm
Thanks BR8ES!!! I haven't even looked inside the cover yet....Just saw you talking about this and it caught my eye!! I assume I just pull out the short bolt and screw in the longer one. It won't tear anything up on the other side of the case, like tranny gears or such...??
1
BR8ES
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9/26/2018 8:16pm Edited Date/Time 9/26/2018 8:24pm
Keating wrote:
Thanks BR8ES!!! I haven't even looked inside the cover yet....Just saw you talking about this and it caught my eye!! I assume I just pull out...
Thanks BR8ES!!! I haven't even looked inside the cover yet....Just saw you talking about this and it caught my eye!! I assume I just pull out the short bolt and screw in the longer one. It won't tear anything up on the other side of the case, like tranny gears or such...??
Yes Sir...easy peasy. It would be best to run a bottoming tap, but many have just run a bolt. More than likely you will have to grind a 20mm bolt down. There will be just a bit of idler play, normal. Cheap, easy and just a little bit of time in the garage.
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The Shop

sdhuskyrider
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Location
San Diego, CA US
10/8/2018 6:33am
Finally got the 9 oz. flywheel weight installed and the bike out for a ride. What a difference! The bike was much smoother, controllable, and connected to the ground. Very happy with that purchase and at this point happy with where the bike is at. I simultaneously installed the red PV spring and have it set one turn in from all the way out. Didn't feel the need to adjust. I may even experiment with switching to the aggressive ignition curve now. Happy day!
1
riv187
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Location
Lakeland, FL US
10/8/2018 4:55pm
Finally got the 9 oz. flywheel weight installed and the bike out for a ride. What a difference! The bike was much smoother, controllable, and connected...
Finally got the 9 oz. flywheel weight installed and the bike out for a ride. What a difference! The bike was much smoother, controllable, and connected to the ground. Very happy with that purchase and at this point happy with where the bike is at. I simultaneously installed the red PV spring and have it set one turn in from all the way out. Didn't feel the need to adjust. I may even experiment with switching to the aggressive ignition curve now. Happy day!
SD,what kind of track did you test on? I ride deep sand,,,to a couple harder pack tracks. Wonder if the benifit is better on one.
sdhuskyrider
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San Diego, CA US
10/9/2018 1:43pm
Finally got the 9 oz. flywheel weight installed and the bike out for a ride. What a difference! The bike was much smoother, controllable, and connected...
Finally got the 9 oz. flywheel weight installed and the bike out for a ride. What a difference! The bike was much smoother, controllable, and connected to the ground. Very happy with that purchase and at this point happy with where the bike is at. I simultaneously installed the red PV spring and have it set one turn in from all the way out. Didn't feel the need to adjust. I may even experiment with switching to the aggressive ignition curve now. Happy day!
riv187 wrote:
SD,what kind of track did you test on? I ride deep sand,,,to a couple harder pack tracks. Wonder if the benifit is better on one.
Mostly hard pack and medium terrain. I don't ride sand much.
jeffro503
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St Helens, OR US
11/4/2018 3:02pm
Older thread here , and I've seen quite a few different experiences on the jetting on the Mikuni here. What has everyone came to a conclusion on? I have to inspect the reeds on my 18' TC 250 I just bought yesterday. I guess depending on what they look like is weather or not I replace them. And fuel mixture? I've been running 40:1 with 927 and VP 110 on my 125. Should I make a separate can of fuel of 60:1 for my 250? I want to keep running 927 and VP 110.

Honestly , if the carb becomes an issue , I had thought about going with a Lectron on this bike , instead of the PWK / STIC mod like I did on the 125. Any advice on a new 250 here , on where to start my jetting and so forth?
sdhuskyrider
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San Diego, CA US
11/4/2018 3:15pm
jeffro503 wrote:
Older thread here , and I've seen quite a few different experiences on the jetting on the Mikuni here. What has everyone came to a conclusion...
Older thread here , and I've seen quite a few different experiences on the jetting on the Mikuni here. What has everyone came to a conclusion on? I have to inspect the reeds on my 18' TC 250 I just bought yesterday. I guess depending on what they look like is weather or not I replace them. And fuel mixture? I've been running 40:1 with 927 and VP 110 on my 125. Should I make a separate can of fuel of 60:1 for my 250? I want to keep running 927 and VP 110.

Honestly , if the carb becomes an issue , I had thought about going with a Lectron on this bike , instead of the PWK / STIC mod like I did on the 125. Any advice on a new 250 here , on where to start my jetting and so forth?
The TMX works excellent for me but I live in California and ride track. It probably becomes an issue when your environment isn't stable but, it's not really an issue, you just have to adjust it. Nothing wrong with the carb....just not well jetted from the factory.
jeffro503
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St Helens, OR US
11/4/2018 3:34pm
jeffro503 wrote:
Older thread here , and I've seen quite a few different experiences on the jetting on the Mikuni here. What has everyone came to a conclusion...
Older thread here , and I've seen quite a few different experiences on the jetting on the Mikuni here. What has everyone came to a conclusion on? I have to inspect the reeds on my 18' TC 250 I just bought yesterday. I guess depending on what they look like is weather or not I replace them. And fuel mixture? I've been running 40:1 with 927 and VP 110 on my 125. Should I make a separate can of fuel of 60:1 for my 250? I want to keep running 927 and VP 110.

Honestly , if the carb becomes an issue , I had thought about going with a Lectron on this bike , instead of the PWK / STIC mod like I did on the 125. Any advice on a new 250 here , on where to start my jetting and so forth?
The TMX works excellent for me but I live in California and ride track. It probably becomes an issue when your environment isn't stable but, it's...
The TMX works excellent for me but I live in California and ride track. It probably becomes an issue when your environment isn't stable but, it's not really an issue, you just have to adjust it. Nothing wrong with the carb....just not well jetted from the factory.
Well , here in Oregon , we can ride in 35 degree's or 100+ degree's depending on the time of year. Some really dry day's and other's are extremely humid. I guess I need to get it close to ride in 50 degree's with quite a bit of moisture.

I haven't opened my carb or checked the reed's just yet , and was wondering what a good starting point may be? And also.....do I stick with 40:1 , or should I do the 60:1 like I've seen some guys mention?
BR8ES
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Bennett, CO US
11/4/2018 3:51pm
Your reeds will look just like the 17 and 18 model years. My 19 did... I mix my 250 at 40:1.
riv187
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Lakeland, FL US
11/4/2018 4:00pm Edited Date/Time 11/4/2018 4:06pm
Honestly,,having 2 huskies,,125 and 250,,and after installing v force and another expensive set...I'd recommend taking the stock reeds off,,carefully flat sanding the stock cage to make the surfaces flat, and putting stock reeds back on,,it'll probably be close to perfect then. My one was. If there is any light showing...don't worry....anyone that has ridden a bike with original boysen reeds rode them with gaps. The thing most don't undestand is the compression under the piston as it travels downward seals minor gaps. Then get a 5.75 slide or cut one like I did. Thats the key...The set-up AJ565 scienced out is good one with tweaks according to your elevation/air. If you got 40+ hours on your bike...sure- change the cage for VForce... if they are on sale..
For fuel mix...60-1 in the 250,,,40-1 in 125...Don't fight what factory tuned it too. They specified JASO and 60-1 for good reasons.They call for 'JASO' rated. Thats the highest most recent japanese test, I understand. Belray and Motul they recommend are JASO. I searched high and low for other cheaper easier to get JASO oils and found KLOTZ snowmobile is and cheap by the gallon. https://www.amazon.com/Snowmobile-TechniPlate-128-Ounce-Gallon/dp/B000G…. I raced 2 stroke Karts back in the day, 17,000 rpms on Super techniplate,,so I'm good with there products.
There's 100000 opinions on oil and brands,,I have several brands for different bikes in my own shop from Benol to Pennzoil,,...but this Klotz is JASO, so I use it, 95% of others are not.
sdhuskyrider
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San Diego, CA US
11/4/2018 4:10pm Edited Date/Time 11/4/2018 4:12pm
I'm mixing 60:1. My cylinder and piston look cherry after 20 hours and use Bel Ray H1R per factory recommendation. I like it so much I switched all my 2 strokes to it from Castoral 927. The new synthetic oils are the way to go 100%.
1
CSAR FE
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Tucson, AZ US
11/4/2018 7:34pm
jeffro503 wrote:
Older thread here , and I've seen quite a few different experiences on the jetting on the Mikuni here. What has everyone came to a conclusion...
Older thread here , and I've seen quite a few different experiences on the jetting on the Mikuni here. What has everyone came to a conclusion on? I have to inspect the reeds on my 18' TC 250 I just bought yesterday. I guess depending on what they look like is weather or not I replace them. And fuel mixture? I've been running 40:1 with 927 and VP 110 on my 125. Should I make a separate can of fuel of 60:1 for my 250? I want to keep running 927 and VP 110.

Honestly , if the carb becomes an issue , I had thought about going with a Lectron on this bike , instead of the PWK / STIC mod like I did on the 125. Any advice on a new 250 here , on where to start my jetting and so forth?
Dude, don’t do the Lectron. It really chops the nuts off of the bike.
AJ565
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San Antonio, TX US
11/5/2018 6:19am
Jeff, I run my bike at 44:1 if I get u4.4 or 40:1 if I get T2. With the jetting I have and the 5.75 slide the bike is a rocket. I'm currently at 28 hours on it so the jetting is more than safe for long term durability and I'm still on stock reeds that I've never checked to see if they had a gap.

With T2 or u4.4
MJ 490
PJ 37.5 (when cooler out, below 65*) 35 when above 65*
AS 2.0 turns out
NJ S-4
Needle 42-75 3rd clip (4th clip when above 80*)
Slide 5.75
PV 1.75 turns in


With C12 the jetting I was running.
MJ 460
PJ 32.5
AS 2.0 turns out
NJ S-4
Needle 42-75 3rd clip
Slide 5.75
PV 1.75 turns in
Straight C12 mixed 60:1 with amsoil dominator
Pud
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Location
CA
8/7/2019 10:12am
Guys we have a 2017 ktm 250 sx and it just doesnt sound crisp...goes great..top end is still fresh...carb is clean...i tried 32.5 PJ and 420 main, 2 turns in on the power valve adjustment..plug looks ok..has an fmf fatty and an fmf silencer, one of the long ones, clean air filter, 60:1 fuel with castor 927 and an 80:20 mix of 93 octane/sunoco 110, sounds great when on the pipe but sounds blubbery at idle and in the pits.
stock .yz250s sound crisp..i want ours to sound like that, any suggestions? thanks
sandman768
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Saratoga Springs, NY US
8/7/2019 10:46am
Pud wrote:
Guys we have a 2017 ktm 250 sx and it just doesnt sound crisp...goes great..top end is still fresh...carb is clean...i tried 32.5 PJ and 420...
Guys we have a 2017 ktm 250 sx and it just doesnt sound crisp...goes great..top end is still fresh...carb is clean...i tried 32.5 PJ and 420 main, 2 turns in on the power valve adjustment..plug looks ok..has an fmf fatty and an fmf silencer, one of the long ones, clean air filter, 60:1 fuel with castor 927 and an 80:20 mix of 93 octane/sunoco 110, sounds great when on the pipe but sounds blubbery at idle and in the pits.
stock .yz250s sound crisp..i want ours to sound like that, any suggestions? thanks
That jetting sounds pretty lean...I”m at 37.5 pilot, 5.75 slide, 450-460 main...1.5 a/s...Inspect your reeds...Mine are stock, but it was an issue for some ...
1
AJ565
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San Antonio, TX US
8/7/2019 11:14am
Pud wrote:
Guys we have a 2017 ktm 250 sx and it just doesnt sound crisp...goes great..top end is still fresh...carb is clean...i tried 32.5 PJ and 420...
Guys we have a 2017 ktm 250 sx and it just doesnt sound crisp...goes great..top end is still fresh...carb is clean...i tried 32.5 PJ and 420 main, 2 turns in on the power valve adjustment..plug looks ok..has an fmf fatty and an fmf silencer, one of the long ones, clean air filter, 60:1 fuel with castor 927 and an 80:20 mix of 93 octane/sunoco 110, sounds great when on the pipe but sounds blubbery at idle and in the pits.
stock .yz250s sound crisp..i want ours to sound like that, any suggestions? thanks
1
sandman768
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Saratoga Springs, NY US
8/7/2019 1:43pm
I Rode my 18 250sx yesterday...45hrs on the engine, never been apart...these bikes absolutely rip...I should put a top end it her.....
1
AJ565
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8/7/2019 2:00pm
sandman768 wrote:
I Rode my 18 250sx yesterday...45hrs on the engine, never been apart...these bikes absolutely rip...I should put a top end it her.....
I have 52 on the stock reeds and stock top end. Still reading 200psi on the compression gauge.
1
opyguy
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Boston, MA US
8/7/2019 2:22pm
Fww I had 53 hours and had the top end done and dealer said it was time, I needed it ( end gap was past spec )
52 yr old shitty rider
1
sdhuskyrider
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12/22/2019 10:04am Edited Date/Time 12/22/2019 10:14am
Update! I finally tried the 5.5 slide yesterday! It was spot on. The 32.5 pilot circuit was a bit lean though but I didn't bother changing it because I was too busy riding my YZ125. That being said, this spec should be about perfect for 70* weather near sea level. The clip may be able to lean out to 3rd with a 35PJ but the main should not be effected. I'm running 91 octane pump gas mixed at 60:1 with Bel Ray H1-R.

MJ 470
PJ 35
Slide 5.5
Needle 42-75
Clip 4th (or 3rd weather depending)
Needle jet s-4
AS 0.5

If you look at AJ565's specs, it looks like we have zeroed in on the ideal spec. If you apply the correction factor for the difference in specific gravity of pump vs C12, we essentially have the same spec.
2
AJ565
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12/23/2019 6:22am
Update! I finally tried the 5.5 slide yesterday! It was spot on. The 32.5 pilot circuit was a bit lean though but I didn't bother changing...
Update! I finally tried the 5.5 slide yesterday! It was spot on. The 32.5 pilot circuit was a bit lean though but I didn't bother changing it because I was too busy riding my YZ125. That being said, this spec should be about perfect for 70* weather near sea level. The clip may be able to lean out to 3rd with a 35PJ but the main should not be effected. I'm running 91 octane pump gas mixed at 60:1 with Bel Ray H1-R.

MJ 470
PJ 35
Slide 5.5
Needle 42-75
Clip 4th (or 3rd weather depending)
Needle jet s-4
AS 0.5

If you look at AJ565's specs, it looks like we have zeroed in on the ideal spec. If you apply the correction factor for the difference in specific gravity of pump vs C12, we essentially have the same spec.
Try the same jetting with a 490 and see what happens. I've been running a 32.5 PJ and a 500 MJ on the second clip (yes, I should drop to a 490, but I wanted to see what happens) My AS is at 2 out though so I also know I'm a little rich. I'm running 90 octane pump gas at 55:1 currently. The extra fuel from the main really made the bike pull farther up top when reved out. Like back to back LITPro data showed faster lap MPH and when overlaid from one session to the next it was visible on which setup pulled longer between sections without a shift.

On the stand you can tell its fat. It doesn't load up, but its not as crisp as with the u4.4. Out on track it runs just as well as the u4.4 did. No bog, hesitation, load up, nothing. It just pulls hard with instant throttle response. I forgot my camera so I haven't gotten any video of the updated jetting to listen to.
1
riv187
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Lakeland, FL US
12/23/2019 7:24am Edited Date/Time 12/23/2019 7:27am
AJ,SD

Here's a modifiction I did on my 18 TC125 .The powerjet kit was only$25. Most would build up a boss with JB WELD to install it in,,but I TIG welded a lump and then shaped it with dremel tool and drilled tapped for mine. This really is nice as I can tweak the carb off to the side of track just by reaching down and twisting the knob. with air changing from morning to afternoon 20+ degrees here in florida , I find it nice to just go off to back lane from track prior to 2nd moto and make a couple 'hits' to test/adjust it before going to starting line. I rarely ride my TC250 so haven't done it yet,,,but it would work just the same to find that ideal sweet spot. The other change was the RK head mod. Worked to smooth out the power and broaden delivery. Squish is exactly .030 vs .045+ on stocker. It maybe a mod the 250 may like based on taste.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/VITOS-EXTERNAL-POWER-JET-KIT/112586520209?hash…




AJ565
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12/23/2019 10:51am
Riv, a high compression head kills over rev on the 250's. Great for a woods bike, but not so much with moto. I wouldn't mind trying the external pilot circuit. I'd also like to try one setup with a Intelajet.
riv187
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12/24/2019 7:46am
AJ565 wrote:
Riv, a high compression head kills over rev on the 250's. Great for a woods bike, but not so much with moto. I wouldn't mind trying...
Riv, a high compression head kills over rev on the 250's. Great for a woods bike, but not so much with moto. I wouldn't mind trying the external pilot circuit. I'd also like to try one setup with a Intelajet.
The head can be done either as high or low compression. The change is more about shape of dome and width of band to effect flame burn and power delivery. I read over and over how the offroad crowd like the smooth wider power RKs machine work delivers...a little wider/ smoother powerband isn't a bad thing on a 125. It felt different immediately with roll on delivery when I installed mine.
I weighed the thought of spending $$$$ for the intelijet,,,but principle and operation is same,,,just I reach under and twist dial rather than it remotely mounted needle elsewhere,,,and I spent $30 vs $300. The range of adjustment is like 3-4 mainjet sizes. I dropped 2-3 on my main to start,, and use the dial 1-2 turns out. It really is noticeable when you find the sweet spot and the engine is like on afterburner. Most people "just ride" a bike...this isn't for them...they are happy to be close and not fouling plug..others like you or I are always looking for that little extra and this gives it. without getting out the jets and tools
ar15
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NL
11/18/2020 11:46am
Does anyone know what the standard starting jet in a TMX carb of a TC250 is? They come in size 50 or 80.
11/18/2020 6:07pm
ar15 wrote:
Does anyone know what the standard starting jet in a TMX carb of a TC250 is? They come in size 50 or 80.
This is from the manual of my 17. In the middle in bold print is the stock setting I believe.




ar15
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11/18/2020 9:35pm
ar15 wrote:
Does anyone know what the standard starting jet in a TMX carb of a TC250 is? They come in size 50 or 80.
This is from the manual of my 17. In the middle in bold print is the stock setting I believe. [img]https://p.vitalmx.com/photos/forums/2020/11/18/460178/s1200_20201118_180256.jpg[/img]
This is from the manual of my 17. In the middle in bold print is the stock setting I believe.




I know that page. But the starting jet is not in it.
11/21/2020 8:36am
Has anyone nailed jetting specs for the 17' Huskatoom TC250? I have been hitting Pala in Socal which is about 500' above sea level and temps...
Has anyone nailed jetting specs for the 17' Huskatoom TC250? I have been hitting Pala in Socal which is about 500' above sea level and temps are pretty steady at 70*F right now. Bike is blubbery down low but crisp mid and up. I checked my float level which is 6-7mm per Mikuni spec and I dropped the pilot from 42.5 to 40 but it didn't do much. Plug reading was dark and sooty at end of the day. Air screw not doing very much. Going to drop to a 37.5 pilot today and up the main to 450 to make up for it. I have read some folks adjusting float to 8-9mm. Does that work? I have also read about correcting squish which seems to help with jetting issues down low. Reed cage looks good btw.
I know lots of guy that know a lot when it comes to jetting and we have all tried to dial these bikes and it’s tough. I work at a husky dealership as well and your best bet it to get a lectron carb. Long story short, the stock carbs in these bikes suck!
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