All

Any of the Tusk products I've used have been fantastic for the price, including their rotors. Rocky Mountain ATV/MC is taking a real step forward with this brand.

Afternoon All, I know for a fact that the 3 largest (to go unnamed) players in the suspension game replace bushings and seals regardless if they are worn out or not. This isn't merely an attempt at them to make more money, but to ensure that their job is protected my new, high quality parts and that you get the...

You're going to get a slew of haters and lovers on this one, as will any oil recommendation thread. With that being said, my recommendation is stick with the big players as they typically have more standardized testings, inspections, and consistency. Whatever you use, try to stick to something that is a synthetic fluid and your suspension will be a...

I'm going to deliver a cautious "No, you will not" to this question. Reason being....if you are properly performing the service, inspecting the parts, and properly reassembling the shock, you are performing virtually identical services as any shop, servicer, suspension dealer. With that being said I'm going to estimate that 10% of people rebuilding their shock are doing it correctly...

A simple method to set up any bike; 1. Turn compression clickers ALL the way in (lightly bottom) 2. Turn counter-clockwise until you feel a click (detent) and stop, this is your base, or Zero. 3. Turn the clicker counterclockwise and count every click on the way out until it stops turning (lightly top). This is your total adjustable range...

By looking at the photos, it appears the stuff is correct for the bike, not to mention good quality stuff. What exactly is the help you need here?

Afternoon Vital Members, X2 on Luxon's comments. I've done both anodizing and cerakote and the anodizing will last substantially longer than the cerakote, and adds many other functional benefits. Anodize is IN the material, cerakote is ON TOP of the material. For suspension components, anodizing is the superior choice for a multitude of reasons. A second recommendation, you know those...

Another vote for TM here. To add to the list of verified good builders including TM; 1. Tom Morgan Racing, 2. Eric Gorr Racing, 3. Watts Perfection.

I've installed literally hundreds of these products including linkage kits, shock bearing kits, swingarm kits, etc., etc. and have rarely found issues after installed, greased, and maintained properly. We can all speculate on the quality of any product by looking at the appearance, packaging, or what you've heard from "your guy", but what it comes down to is if installed...

I put CRF master cylinders with the "backwards" bolt for the line on everything I own. I have a CRF master cylinder on my 2002 RM125 & 2014 RMZ250 and, on both bikes, the master cylinder bolts to the line at the front and I have never had a fitment issue on any of my bikes with the conversion.

1. Starting with the initial question, no I don't replace tubes every time I replace a tire. Inspect the tube for chaffing (as stated above) and ensure it holds air while it is out of the tire (an air compressor and soapy water help with this). After verifying the tube is good and while you've got it covered in soapy...

A can of penetrating fluid (I use Panther Penetrant) and a brass punch will be your best friend in not damaging the lock ring. Make sure you're using a big hammer and hope the threads are still there when you're done. Best of luck!

Race Tech has a very nice tool for answering exactly this question. Input your rider height, weight, style, and skill level and it gives you an approximated value of what you should start with. I've attached a link and the specs given based on your info; http://racetech.com/ProductSearch/12/Suzuki/RM250/2002 Sag - 103mm Spring Rate - 5.8 kg/mm Pressure - 165 PSI Oil...