Posts
104
Joined
4/23/2019
Location
GB
Edited Date/Time
6/18/2019 11:33pm
Hi all,
Began swapping out the bearings on my pivot links today.
All was going well until I started to set the bottom shock bearing and measure to ensure it was central. Seems like the bearing is thinner than OEM as rather than the 2.0 - 2.2mm it's supposed to be the bearing was sitting at about 3mm each side.

Assembled the bottom shock bearing as per OEM i.e. the collar flange in rather than out and seal pressed over the top and offered it up to the shock. Too wide..



Got the original bearing and collars out and measured them. Correct size to fit into the shock. Strange...

Then rebuilt the Pivot Works kit using the seal first and collars on the outside (like the other bearings but NOT as per the workshop manual). Measurement fine..


Plainly something is different here to the OEM. Anyone know if the assembly should deviate from the manual when using this kit?
Si
Began swapping out the bearings on my pivot links today.
All was going well until I started to set the bottom shock bearing and measure to ensure it was central. Seems like the bearing is thinner than OEM as rather than the 2.0 - 2.2mm it's supposed to be the bearing was sitting at about 3mm each side.

Assembled the bottom shock bearing as per OEM i.e. the collar flange in rather than out and seal pressed over the top and offered it up to the shock. Too wide..



Got the original bearing and collars out and measured them. Correct size to fit into the shock. Strange...

Then rebuilt the Pivot Works kit using the seal first and collars on the outside (like the other bearings but NOT as per the workshop manual). Measurement fine..


Plainly something is different here to the OEM. Anyone know if the assembly should deviate from the manual when using this kit?
Si
Paw Paw
I'll raise it with their tech support to see if they can give any insights..
I pressed mine in using heat to expand the link and the bearing still collapsed. After looking at the stock bearings that I had removed, I could see a clear difference. The stock bearings had a nice square shoulder, which was perfect for pressing in. The pivot works bearings had a round shoulder. As they were pressed, the round shoulder folded in and became square. The collapse caused the needle bearings to bind up.
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Are you certain you didn't mix up any of the parts from the kit?
You should also measure both OEM collars and the OEM bearing center...see where the differences lie
I’m 100% that I’m using the correct parts (they’re unique in the kit as there’s only one lower shock bearing assy).
What's especially interesting is that the bearing and collar design for the PW shock link is fundamentally different to the OEM. The OEM roller bearing is flanged i.e. the outer race cage is wider than the rollers/pivot shaft and the collars are designed to fit into the recess in the correct orientation with the seal over the top. The PW kit bearing isn't flanged (the width of the whole bearing is equal to the OEM roller width) and the collars therefore don't seat properly when in the OEM orientation and the overall thickness of the assy wider. If the collars are reversed then the assy is shorter as the smaller dia collar face sits on the pivot wich is slightly shorter than the race width. I'm assuming here that PW chose this bearing change due to availability/cost of a custom flanged bearing. If they changed the design however they should at least provide information on this and any change to the assembly method. Even if they did change the design I'd be concerned however as the whole point of the OEM layout is to provide better protection to the bearing from water ingress given this is the bearing subjected most to water contamination due to the vertical shock and water seeping down. When I removed the original OEM bearings from the bike the other pivot bearings we're still serviceable however the shock bearing was basically a rusted lump of metal - just goes to show how much tougher this bearing's life is!
I’ll have the OEM parts tonight and I also have another new lower shock bearing assy from the PW shock rebuild kit that is currently unused (got one in the pivot kit and one in the shock kit). I’ll post photos so that you can see the difference!
I raised a support call with PW but nobody has come back..,,.
Si
How a business can claim that these meet OEM spec is beyond me as the two are totally different.
Notice that the OEM bearing cage is larger than the rollers allowing the collars to sit into the bearing. The PW bearing is just a standard needle race
Notice how the OEM insert sits flush in the needle race with a collar installed
See how the Honda assy sits together whereas the PW has the collars floating on the bearing cage edge (it's so bad that the collars actually are just to small to even seat on the race all the way round and wobble. Look at the additional width. No wonder it doesn't fit into the shock!
https://i.imgur.com/zv5kNsu.jpg
How do I get my hard earned cash back as this is rubbish?
I've used PW kits on many different motorcycles, and I have never had one fail to fit correctly.
I completely agree that it works that way but I have two issues with this;
1. That’s not how the OEM assy is installed.
2. There are no instructions that the assy method is different from OEM for the PW kit.
If you look at my first post I actually reference this way of installation and ask the question ‘should the shock bearing be installed this way’ as it’s the only way I could see it working. There’s also a picture of the installation that way.
Do appreciate the help with this btw!
My view on the PW design is that;
1. The collar on the OEM covers the whole of the race opening - the PW one leaves the rollers exposed
2. With the larger collar diameter on the inside water has to pass through the seal and up and over the collar - if water gets past the seal on the PW design it goes straight into the rollers.
3.Honda made a deliberate decision to build this bearing assy different (and more expensively). I imagine the design engineers did this for a reason.
Of course I may be talking complete rubbish
The one thing that really screwed me here was that I watched Cameron N's video on Youtube to understand the installation of the PW kit - he states that the shock bolt collars should go the OEM way lol
No matter - the one positive about this is I have no fear around taking this stuff apart and maintaining it as I've messed about so much over the last few days. I reckon I could rip it apart, re-grease and reassemble with my eyes shut now!
One last question - how often do you actually tear the race apart i.e. remove the needles and clean rather than just wipe and grease?
Thanks again.
Si
It may be a pain but as I've discovered through this exercise it's not hard to do so I'm going to be very proactive going forward!
Again appreciate your help on this one..
Si
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