Posts
1314
Joined
3/25/2019
Location
Port Isabel, TX, USA
Just looking at Facebook market place and all I see is a bunch of nasty rusted PC and FMF pipes since McGrath made that popular.
Anyone know why these pipes rust so bad. About 20 years ago I worked in the oil field and we had some alloys that absolutely would not rust.
321 stainless I think is much better. 4130 would be good too with the right coating.
On my kx450 I've got a full titanium system that stays nice and clean looking. I've upgraded most of my hardware to chinese titanium. Yes it's expensive but I can afford it and my bike has no rust!!
If FMF or PC had a 327 full titanium system, I'll work some overtime. I don't want a rusty pipe ever
Titanium - so soft it doesn't even take a rock to dent it... sand will dent it. Also very cost prohibitive 800-1000 for a 250 pipe, minimum.
Stainless - 600+ dollars for a 250cc pipe, it's cost prohibitive.
There is also some "voodoo" involved on the wall thickness of the pipe itself and the way the exhaust pulses pop off the inside of the pipe. I say voodoo because admittedly I don't know that wall.thickness math, but I know it exists.
If you're into alloys, I would like to see one made of Docol. Looks promising.
If you want to protect your pipe from rust, get it good and hot and soak it down with Kroil. It's the only thing that will penetrate the metal's pores. It will last about 4 washes if you don't use acidic bathroom cleaner like most of these plebians.
I don't want to use some oily crap on my pipe or muriatic acid either but I guess I'll have to do that. I'll gladly pay 1000$ for a titanium pipe, that's cheap nowadays.
Use toilet bowl cleaner dude. Any kind will work. It will take that brown rust/burnt on dirt right off. Dont even really have to scrub, spray it on let it sit a second and spray it off.
The Shop
Luxon 4-Post Bar Mounts
$189.95 - $239.95
DeCal Works Huge Plastic Inventory of UFO and Polisport kits.
Keeping bare pipes clean is so easy. WD-40 with scotch brite after washing, and maybe once a month pull it off and use some CLR or Lime Away.
There is no need for nickel plating, SS or Ti for the purposes of preventing rust.
Wait a min, you mean completely removing the pipe to clean it once a month is an option 🤔
Nevermind, I hope they keep using some mild carbon steel
They found a way to save money by skipping the Nickle plating and marketing it as "Factory Finish"
Goat of Lurkers : " If you're into alloys, I would like to see one made of Docol. Looks promising."
I've been interested in R8 and R10 Docol for quite some time, but, I've yet to find light enough gage tubing to be of use to me. Thinnest I can find in the size - 1.75" / 44.45mm - I use for my downtubes on DH frames, is 2.1mm. Too heavy, and I've Never had a failure with either 1.2 or .9mm thick 4130.
Even better would be if I could get either in the 28.6 and 31.8mm I use in my Ducati frames, but, once again, to make use of the extra strength that R8, and R10 moreso brings, to enable thinner gage, I can only, so far, find heavier tubeing, so, it's pointless for me, so far.
Using it on Chambers? If you could get ultra thin plate, it might be useful, as it's strength and ductility would be a good thing for ight, or, using heavier thickness, a Super strong chamber, plus it's reputed lesser HAZE zone would be great for pulsing fatigue. But, I've only known 1 chamber maker that would even use 4130 - everyone else that I know personally, over many decades , have just used 'steel'.
I don't think R8 or R10 are resistant or impervious to rust, but, I could be wrong on that.
f course, there have been a few makers of Aluminium Chambers, and Stainless Chambers.
I've a stainless chamber for my 500 ( a lovely Spanish Cone Pipe), to fit if I ever decide to make it pretty, but, I've been using the standard one it came with - while having a couple of FMFs and PCs, and new std chambers hanging up in the rafters, - for the past 24 years - it refuses to die.
Have you called Docol? I talked to them. I fancy myself a frame builder too (ha) and I wanted something equivalent to Reynolds 853. The guy I spoke to was very open to making whatever I wanted.
I would venture to say that if you printed the PDF out for the tubing specs you're looking for in Reynolds or Columbus Spirit/Life , they would accommodate you.
No one is doing bike frames with Docol and I think they want people to. Its mostly roll cages.
Another thing I considered using Docol for is tapered head tube and T47 bottom brackets. Paragon closed, and everyone's tapered headtubes are heavy as shit. Makes me want to produce a batch of head tubes out of docol and sling them to frame builders just to see if there's a market.
I've used 853 for many years now, and, 953 Stainless.
But, my DH frames, use straight gauge 4130 in the DT, a Columbus 38.10mm top tube, a composite seat tube (thickness) -1.65mm 34.9 takes a 31.6mm seat tube perfectly, so around 80 to 125mm of that, the rest either .7 4130 , or some 853 I have. By the way, have you Ever tried to ream out 853 to take a seat tube, after welding ? Bastard of a task!
For my DH bikes, I make a composite / welded headtube, of ridiculous beefiness :
I use a Columbus tapered headtube as the center section, but with 4130 ends that starts at 50.8mmx 4.8mm for the top, and 63.5mm OD, with 3mm wall, machined to take IS cups. Oh, and for straight HTs, for more room for adjustable reach head sets, I use 2" / 50.8 x 1.2mm center tube, with the ends in that 63.5mm. Both, weigh a tonne! Nowadays I do miters by hand, I don't use my mill except for 2 holes and 2 miters in my Swingarm sections. I limit myself to around 12 to 15 frames a year, as against many more previously over the decades, plus my Ducati frames, and a Lot of other jobs. Plus Tubular Car Chassis. Retirement, seems busier than my previous working life.
I've never even considered reaming out a straight tube for a seatpost. I'm doing BMX frames, Skill level 0.5. Can I see your miter fixture?
I've used internally butted and externally butted seat tubes, straight gage tube - everything.
With the composite seat tubes, it's just been a way to save a little bit of weight, while using straight gage 4130, with having to do next to no reaming for the 31.6 seat post going into the 34.9. tubing. I've a triangulation tube going from the weld junction of the composite seat tube to the shock mount area on the downtube.
Miter fixtures?
I've just used Alloy Blocks ( substantial ones, in relative - to the tubes - width and length, to not crush tubes or have them move in the blocks ) , with the relevant ID bore to take each Tube OD. Some split, some with just a side parting. I used them for either mounting in my Mill, or Lathe, or directly into a Vice. They are Nothing fancy. I do the miters by hand now, well, because I can, and, I do so few frames now. A hand Miter I'd do in 10 / 20 minutes, I now just plod along and take a few hours with, between other important things - like reading a book, going for a ride, and chasing Great Grand Kids. It's all for 'fun', nowadays. Though I do a Lot of swearing while I work, now.
Plenty of Frame Supply companies make tube holders, but they charge a LOT. I make / made them myself - some I've been using since the 70s, when I first started making 'things'. Cripes, the amount of fixtures I have after all these years, is mind boggling - and a good percentage of them, having their Identities / purposes worn off / fall off them, I'm buggered if I remember what they were for. It happens when you get Old and Doddery!
Goat of Lurkers
*Apologies to others for taking over this, but, I like to help fellow Makers.
I've not used them, but my local Metals supplier has these T-WiTS set ups.
This video doesn't really show them in full, but, you'll get the drift with how they can help with Notching Thin ( and Short sections of ) Tubing - a scary proposition at times, with the danger of collapsing / things flying through Space when trying to do it :
I've a fair few miters to do soon, on weird little sections of tube, in various sizes, and, I think I might get a few of these T-WiTS, to use with a notching set up I barely ever use.
Buggered if I can find the companies actual Web Site on them though
I have an all aluminum pipe for the 98-99 CR125 if you are nit into rust….
As others posted, quick wipe down of kroll or wd40 does wonders for keeping rust at bay. If it becomes rusty, remove and apply clr and a bit of steel wool and it will look as good as new.
Because nickel or chrome exhausts should only be used on diesel tractors, boats or ATVs. Basically, anytime you want to attract other dudes
I bet some of you don’t wipe your ass either.
Lazy slobs
Aluminum would be cool that one doesn't look as bad as the "factory" pipes. Im sure the aluminum would be affordable and light weight too.
Cool pipe man!
Pit Row
Ill come to the track loaded in rust just to show what a man I am! Also your not a real man if you don't remove your pipe once a month to clean it.
I've got an EBR 1190RX that could use a chromoly tube chassis if we could figure out a fuel reservoir solution. It's the 72 degree V so probabky pretty far off of a 90deg L .
Works pipe for sale. Fits every yz250 ever
Just polish it up good as new $350 you have to pickup. I know what I have. Super rare high revs secret factory powerband
You’ll want to braze up those pin holes before you go to blow it back into shape.
Nice fit up, awesome work
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