Posts
8
Joined
11/1/2025
Location
USA
Any run into problems with this generation of kx cornering. I’ve tried just about everything and the cornering seems impossible. The bike feels long and likes to turn super wide or unstable. I’m improving every where on the track but the corners. Seems like no matter what I have to come into a complete stop just to turn and it’s slowing me down tremendously. If I carry speed and there’s a rut the bike just plops out of the rut. And won’t plant.
I found the exact opposite. The sag, fork height, springs, everything is going to affect the handling. It needs to be set-up correctly. I found this bike to corner very well once the sag was set. Comparing to my 2012 RMZ-450, it was pretty damn good.
Its a long bike / frame. You can do things to help it in the turns, but it will never be a Suzuki or Honda, or even a newer Yamaha.
Run a shorter chain to bring the rear wheel as close to the front of the adjustment as possible to shorten the wheelbase.
Pull the forks up in the triple clamps, or try a different offset. Keep in mind, these changes will affect the great stability that this bike has stock.
What are you running on these?
I’ve tried on sag 95 all the way to 110 currently settled with 105 but nothing feels right.
Fork height I’m at 6mm springs are 5.2 up front and 5.8 in the rear since I weigh 205 without gear
I’m currently at 6mm on the fork height how much should I go? Is there a cheaper way to try the offset other than buying new triple clamps? Just trying to hold out till I can buy a new yz450
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21.5 offset triple clamp. I preferred the Luxon
Wow, yeah sounds like you tried just about everything. I'm 170lbs so the stock springs were fine, just added a little fork oil and I was good. Sag at 104 worked for me.
I was going to say try less sag, but 95 should have made a huge difference along with the fork height. Has your suspension been revalved also?
There are some bigger guys on this board that had that bike working great... I'm sure someone will chime in so you don't have to go thru the 200 page thread on this bike... wish i could be more help 🤷♂️
https://www.vitalmx.com/forums/Moto-Related,20/Lets-see-review-those-20…
I have 2 23’s
Luxons on both.
Helped me
Have you tried changing your riding style, putting more weight on the front end in corners?
It’s worth the $700?
I haven’t had it revalved. That is the one thing I haven’t done.
I have legit sat on top of the gas cap with little change in the handling. Only thing different doing that is th front seemed to not pop up
Definitely and will make a difference more so than an aftermarket exhaust that everyone splurges on first 🤣
I bought both of mine on mx locker
You've played this game, great advice.
I tried. Turned it into a blue one. Now im good lol..
I tried 21.5 xtrigs. It helped a smidge but still wasn't enough for me. Bike always felt long and lethargic like my early gen crf's.
REP reduces the preload on the forks to help it drop down a bit more on corner entry, give them a call, I don’t recall the exact mod they do
I’d start over, double check spring rates both front and rear. Make sure fork oil is right. Set your fork height to factory. Make sure you are absolutely sprung for your weight. If not get it right, racetech will hook you up, call them. Once you know beyond a shadow of a doubt your sprung right, sag about 105, clickers at factory your KX should turn. Might have to fine tune it, but it should still turn. Yeah it’s kinda a long ish but my 24 KX 450 out of the crate not even sprung right for my weight mine got around the track pretty dang good, it turned surprisingly good.
I’d make sure everything is right. As much as I hate to say this. If it still won’t turn I’d look at technique. Start over with corner technique, watch a few Youtube videos. Late model KX is a solid ride. We had a couple of fast guys on Friday at MX2.0 between Houston and Beaumont Tx on stock late model Kx450’s turning in so tight in corners it would make your head spin.
Raise the idle. Obscenely
Pit Row
Well, i feel the same thing about my 250 kxf 2023...I want to sell it for a 25-26 crf which seems to be the best in the cornering department , if someone was able to compare the two ?
Maybe it’s my simple cowboy logic. Last few years all bikes are pretty good, pick a color. Yeah a green bike may not turn like a red bike, but a red bike may not be is not as stable straight line as a green bike. If ya buy a bike and it doesn’t turn or handle like ya want it, fix it. There are so many aftermarket part to be bought to make any color bike handle better/like ya want. A 23.5 Luxon clamp goes a long way to take the stink bug out of a 22-24 Honda. If a green bike won’t turn in quick enough, triple clamp with lessor degree should help. Besides……….a green Luxon clamp on a KX looks really cool!
Now you guys got me thinking about a Luxon clamp for my 24 KX 450 LOL!!
Buy a Honda. I'm joking, but I did have a 21' KX450 and sold it for a 22' Honda because of the way it turned, or rather the way it didn't turn. I liked a lot of things about the KX but I could never come to terms with the way it turned. It felt like it always wanted to go straight. It had great stability and the frame rigidity was far more comfortable than the CRF, but I'm happier with the Honda overall.
I have a Luxon 21.5mm triple clamp on my 20 KX450, did not notice any improvement or difference from stock,
Had a 19 and a 21 KX450. Some days were better than others but liked the overall cornering ability of that generation of the Kawi.
I've used both 370 and 390cc in the forks, either works. Used 22mm offset Ride Engineering clamps which helped a bit but stock clamps are fine. Sag at 104mm but wouldn't be opposed to running higher since that generation and previous sit a bit low in the rear. Forks set at the first line (5 or 6mm, give or take). Have ran the blocks for 114 link chain but would still recommend 116 and blocks back. You could deviate from this baseline but this is how mine was set up.
Assuming your suspension is properly valved for you, try slowing down the rebound on the forks. Whenever I try a new suspension setting, I'd get the compression good for the rest of the track, but the front end would be stubborn and push in the turns. Tinkering with the rebound on the forks (in my experience, going slower) helps make the front end a bit more compliant without the soft front end feel.This generation of the KX450 was one of my favourites so I'd be stoked to see you get comfortable on it.
This a good suggestion. If the fork was revalved and they made the LSV stiffer, that will keep the front up also. Try swapping a softer spring on one side. Still have a 19 kx450 and have to say mine turns great and my track is tight and hard pack clay. Tire choice matters. Use the front brake to set the front. Press into the outside peg. Right setup it will turn as well as any other bike.
I have not had the bike revalved. I resprung it to 5.2 on forks and 5.8 on the rear for my body weight. 205 without gear. Currently running 325 on oil.
I would highly recommend a revalve from a local tuner, even a reputable tuner if you're willing to ship your suspension out (time of year works out if you're up north). It's easily the best bang for buck modification you can invest in and it's relatively inexpensive. Whichever tuner you select, my advice is to connect with them as much as possible; be willing to document footage of your riding so you can relay it to your tuner for the best results, as language will only go so far. Local tuners who do trackside support help out too, bonus if you're able to privately test with them as well.
What area of the country are you located in? I've worked with some tuners in the US who do a great job.
Regardless, I would raise the oil level in the forks. I ran 370cc on an older setup from my '21; it turned great but bottomed out on heavy landings. Ended up solving that problem with 390cc.
Take that thing in and trade it plus cash for a 6999 otd 2025. It's an entirely different front steering characteristic than the previous gen.
I’m in eastern Kentucky.
This is real. A former factory rider and GP winner taught his "fast idle" technique where you adjust your grip on the throttle so you don't close it all the way on corner entry. This was in the 2T days, but it forces you to carry momentum AND use less clutch on the way out.
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