2024 Kawasaki KX450 and KX450X

crc245
Posts
1336
Joined
10/29/2007
Location
Yorba Linda, CA US
8/30/2024 4:22pm
JkopMx wrote:
Maybe just a coincidence - put my vortex on today and 6 laps in my bike died. Just bogged out like the system cut off spark...

Maybe just a coincidence - put my vortex on today and 6 laps in my bike died. Just bogged out like the system cut off spark .  Bike has 3 hours total since new. 


No spark it appears. 
fuel pump is turning on- and spraying fuel - 


Put a new spark plug - checked fuel - 


Now the fun starts- to trial and error what went wrong . I've heard of guys cam gear slipping - so I'll check  timing- 



Maybe check the tip over sensor as well - as I know that will kill spark and not let the bike fire. 


If anyone has any input or experience LMK.

Did you try going back to the stock ECU? Odd with the low hours and recent Vortex install…

1
JkopMx
Posts
372
Joined
1/22/2015
Location
houston, TX US
8/30/2024 4:31pm
crc245 wrote:

Did you try going back to the stock ECU? Odd with the low hours and recent Vortex install…

Yes sir - no change 

1
JkopMx
Posts
372
Joined
1/22/2015
Location
houston, TX US
8/30/2024 5:57pm Edited Date/Time 8/30/2024 5:57pm

Anyone know a tool that allows you to adjust you’re compression adjuster when running the handlebars in the forward hole?

Enzo has a compression adjuster that's toolless . Allowed you to adjust it with any bar combo . 


Good buy when you run the showa forks .

2

The Shop

Sandusky26
Posts
3406
Joined
7/28/2021
Location
Eastern, NC US
8/31/2024 1:10am

Just don’t have the same guy map your Vortex and you’ll be fine.  That previous gen engine was pretty damn bulletproof.

Sandusky26 wrote:
It was mapped by Twisted Development. I really wish I knew the exact reason the other bike blew. I just assumed detonation, but the piston and...

It was mapped by Twisted Development. I really wish I knew the exact reason the other bike blew. I just assumed detonation, but the piston and head didn't really look to bad.

JkopMx wrote:
Maybe just a coincidence - put my vortex on today and 6 laps in my bike died. Just bogged out like the system cut off spark...

Maybe just a coincidence - put my vortex on today and 6 laps in my bike died. Just bogged out like the system cut off spark .  Bike has 3 hours total since new. 


No spark it appears. 
fuel pump is turning on- and spraying fuel - 


Put a new spark plug - checked fuel - 


Now the fun starts- to trial and error what went wrong . I've heard of guys cam gear slipping - so I'll check  timing- 



Maybe check the tip over sensor as well - as I know that will kill spark and not let the bike fire. 


If anyone has any input or experience LMK.

Sorry to hear about your bIke. I still have the Vortex from the old bIke, im not sure if Ill map it for the 24 or not. I can't afford to have any issues. 

1
8/31/2024 10:49am

Any wash covers for the power flow kit avalible yet?

1
8/31/2024 11:35am
mx4all wrote:

Any wash covers for the power flow kit avalible yet?

Available!

 

IMG 2266 1
1
9/1/2024 9:56am Edited Date/Time 9/2/2024 4:31pm

I just installed the second optional OEM stiffer fork spring, and I’m very happy with the change.  It really increased my comfort level in rutted straights by increasing the holdup in the front end and adding even more stability.  Currently I have a 6.0 kg/mm shock spring and the optional .53 nm fork springs with the oil volume set at 350 ml.  I’m very happy with how my bike works now.  For reference, I’m 6’3” and weigh 210-215 w/o gear.  Don’t plan to revalve at this point.

Worked good enough today to earn $250 in contingency.

5
crmx105
Posts
651
Joined
5/7/2016
Location
Dunnellon, FL US
9/1/2024 10:22am
I just installed the second optional OEM stiffer fork spring, and I’m very happy with the change.  It really increased my comfort level in rutted straights...

I just installed the second optional OEM stiffer fork spring, and I’m very happy with the change.  It really increased my comfort level in rutted straights by increasing the holdup in the front end and adding even more stability.  Currently I have a 6.0 kg/mm shock spring and the optional .53 nm fork springs with the oil volume set at 350 ml.  I’m very happy with how my bike works now.  For reference, I’m 6’3” and weigh 210-215 w/o gear.  Don’t plan to revalve at this point.

Worked good enough today to earn $250 in contingency.

Typo on the 250ml, you meant 350?

1
9/2/2024 12:12am
mx4all wrote:

Any wash covers for the power flow kit avalible yet?

Available! 

Available!

 

IMG 2266 1

where at? cant find any 

9/2/2024 4:44am
mx4all wrote:

Any wash covers for the power flow kit avalible yet?

Available! 

Available!

 

IMG 2266 1
mx4all wrote:

where at? cant find any 

I ordered it straight from Dominic’s corp

JLopez149
Posts
21
Joined
2/9/2021
Location
Vail, AZ US
9/2/2024 12:24pm
mx4all wrote:

Any wash covers for the power flow kit avalible yet?

Available! 

Available!

 

IMG 2266 1
mx4all wrote:

where at? cant find any 

I ordered mine from here last week. Just make sure to hit the dropdown and select power flow. 

https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/twin-air-air-box-cover-kawasaki-kx450-x-2024?sku_id=10439133


IMG 6351

1
Duke28
Posts
220
Joined
12/18/2019
Location
Moto town, TX US
9/3/2024 1:44am
I just installed the second optional OEM stiffer fork spring, and I’m very happy with the change.  It really increased my comfort level in rutted straights...

I just installed the second optional OEM stiffer fork spring, and I’m very happy with the change.  It really increased my comfort level in rutted straights by increasing the holdup in the front end and adding even more stability.  Currently I have a 6.0 kg/mm shock spring and the optional .53 nm fork springs with the oil volume set at 350 ml.  I’m very happy with how my bike works now.  For reference, I’m 6’3” and weigh 210-215 w/o gear.  Don’t plan to revalve at this point.

Worked good enough today to earn $250 in contingency.

Any change in cornering? 

9/3/2024 4:32am Edited Date/Time 9/3/2024 4:36am
I just installed the second optional OEM stiffer fork spring, and I’m very happy with the change.  It really increased my comfort level in rutted straights...

I just installed the second optional OEM stiffer fork spring, and I’m very happy with the change.  It really increased my comfort level in rutted straights by increasing the holdup in the front end and adding even more stability.  Currently I have a 6.0 kg/mm shock spring and the optional .53 nm fork springs with the oil volume set at 350 ml.  I’m very happy with how my bike works now.  For reference, I’m 6’3” and weigh 210-215 w/o gear.  Don’t plan to revalve at this point.

Worked good enough today to earn $250 in contingency.

Duke28 wrote:

Any change in cornering? 

If anything, the cornering actually improved in the gnarly, rutted corners because the front end held up better and was more predictable.  There is nothing as critical to suspension setup as getting the spring rate right.  Before spending a pile of money on a revalve, I strongly suggest that you go on the Race Tech spring rate calculator and get the correct spring rates in there (cheap and easy job).  ML here has a great video on YouTube that shows you how to change fork springs without draining the oil https://youtu.be/hc5TTiCvops?si=vqBK4YmL9pGb8lcq

If you’re still bottoming the forks, try adding 10ml of oil to each fork with a syringe through the bleed hole at the top until the bottoming stops.  I sure am happy with my suspension and cornering prowess, and I only spent 2-300 bucks to get here.  My 2019 needed a fork revalve, but my 2024 sure feels pretty dialed in at this point.  I OJ’ed a jump or two over the weekend and never experienced any bottoming.

1
Duke28
Posts
220
Joined
12/18/2019
Location
Moto town, TX US
9/3/2024 4:56am
I just installed the second optional OEM stiffer fork spring, and I’m very happy with the change.  It really increased my comfort level in rutted straights...

I just installed the second optional OEM stiffer fork spring, and I’m very happy with the change.  It really increased my comfort level in rutted straights by increasing the holdup in the front end and adding even more stability.  Currently I have a 6.0 kg/mm shock spring and the optional .53 nm fork springs with the oil volume set at 350 ml.  I’m very happy with how my bike works now.  For reference, I’m 6’3” and weigh 210-215 w/o gear.  Don’t plan to revalve at this point.

Worked good enough today to earn $250 in contingency.

Duke28 wrote:

Any change in cornering? 

If anything, the cornering actually improved in the gnarly, rutted corners because the front end held up better and was more predictable.  There is nothing as...

If anything, the cornering actually improved in the gnarly, rutted corners because the front end held up better and was more predictable.  There is nothing as critical to suspension setup as getting the spring rate right.  Before spending a pile of money on a revalve, I strongly suggest that you go on the Race Tech spring rate calculator and get the correct spring rates in there (cheap and easy job).  ML here has a great video on YouTube that shows you how to change fork springs without draining the oil https://youtu.be/hc5TTiCvops?si=vqBK4YmL9pGb8lcq

If you’re still bottoming the forks, try adding 10ml of oil to each fork with a syringe through the bleed hole at the top until the bottoming stops.  I sure am happy with my suspension and cornering prowess, and I only spent 2-300 bucks to get here.  My 2019 needed a fork revalve, but my 2024 sure feels pretty dialed in at this point.  I OJ’ed a jump or two over the weekend and never experienced any bottoming.

Can’t agree more!

9/3/2024 7:52am
I just installed the second optional OEM stiffer fork spring, and I’m very happy with the change.  It really increased my comfort level in rutted straights...

I just installed the second optional OEM stiffer fork spring, and I’m very happy with the change.  It really increased my comfort level in rutted straights by increasing the holdup in the front end and adding even more stability.  Currently I have a 6.0 kg/mm shock spring and the optional .53 nm fork springs with the oil volume set at 350 ml.  I’m very happy with how my bike works now.  For reference, I’m 6’3” and weigh 210-215 w/o gear.  Don’t plan to revalve at this point.

Worked good enough today to earn $250 in contingency.

Duke28 wrote:

Any change in cornering? 

If anything, the cornering actually improved in the gnarly, rutted corners because the front end held up better and was more predictable.  There is nothing as...

If anything, the cornering actually improved in the gnarly, rutted corners because the front end held up better and was more predictable.  There is nothing as critical to suspension setup as getting the spring rate right.  Before spending a pile of money on a revalve, I strongly suggest that you go on the Race Tech spring rate calculator and get the correct spring rates in there (cheap and easy job).  ML here has a great video on YouTube that shows you how to change fork springs without draining the oil https://youtu.be/hc5TTiCvops?si=vqBK4YmL9pGb8lcq

If you’re still bottoming the forks, try adding 10ml of oil to each fork with a syringe through the bleed hole at the top until the bottoming stops.  I sure am happy with my suspension and cornering prowess, and I only spent 2-300 bucks to get here.  My 2019 needed a fork revalve, but my 2024 sure feels pretty dialed in at this point.  I OJ’ed a jump or two over the weekend and never experienced any bottoming.

My gripe with the RT calculator is it just gives me the factory spring rates front and rear. I would really like to stiffen up the front fork. Do you recall what factory oil level is? I see RT lists 370cc.

Mr. Afterbar
Posts
2413
Joined
5/13/2019
Location
Green Bay, WI US
9/3/2024 9:50am
Duke28 wrote:

Any change in cornering? 

If anything, the cornering actually improved in the gnarly, rutted corners because the front end held up better and was more predictable.  There is nothing as...

If anything, the cornering actually improved in the gnarly, rutted corners because the front end held up better and was more predictable.  There is nothing as critical to suspension setup as getting the spring rate right.  Before spending a pile of money on a revalve, I strongly suggest that you go on the Race Tech spring rate calculator and get the correct spring rates in there (cheap and easy job).  ML here has a great video on YouTube that shows you how to change fork springs without draining the oil https://youtu.be/hc5TTiCvops?si=vqBK4YmL9pGb8lcq

If you’re still bottoming the forks, try adding 10ml of oil to each fork with a syringe through the bleed hole at the top until the bottoming stops.  I sure am happy with my suspension and cornering prowess, and I only spent 2-300 bucks to get here.  My 2019 needed a fork revalve, but my 2024 sure feels pretty dialed in at this point.  I OJ’ed a jump or two over the weekend and never experienced any bottoming.

Leemur891 wrote:
My gripe with the RT calculator is it just gives me the factory spring rates front and rear. I would really like to stiffen up the...

My gripe with the RT calculator is it just gives me the factory spring rates front and rear. I would really like to stiffen up the front fork. Do you recall what factory oil level is? I see RT lists 370cc.

It should be in the manual. I believe it’s 340mL if I recall correctly, but double check the manual. I would not trust that the fork oil that came in your forks is at the correct height, either.

1
crmx105
Posts
651
Joined
5/7/2016
Location
Dunnellon, FL US
9/3/2024 10:12am Edited Date/Time 9/3/2024 10:15am
Duke28 wrote:

Any change in cornering? 

If anything, the cornering actually improved in the gnarly, rutted corners because the front end held up better and was more predictable.  There is nothing as...

If anything, the cornering actually improved in the gnarly, rutted corners because the front end held up better and was more predictable.  There is nothing as critical to suspension setup as getting the spring rate right.  Before spending a pile of money on a revalve, I strongly suggest that you go on the Race Tech spring rate calculator and get the correct spring rates in there (cheap and easy job).  ML here has a great video on YouTube that shows you how to change fork springs without draining the oil https://youtu.be/hc5TTiCvops?si=vqBK4YmL9pGb8lcq

If you’re still bottoming the forks, try adding 10ml of oil to each fork with a syringe through the bleed hole at the top until the bottoming stops.  I sure am happy with my suspension and cornering prowess, and I only spent 2-300 bucks to get here.  My 2019 needed a fork revalve, but my 2024 sure feels pretty dialed in at this point.  I OJ’ed a jump or two over the weekend and never experienced any bottoming.

Leemur891 wrote:
My gripe with the RT calculator is it just gives me the factory spring rates front and rear. I would really like to stiffen up the...

My gripe with the RT calculator is it just gives me the factory spring rates front and rear. I would really like to stiffen up the front fork. Do you recall what factory oil level is? I see RT lists 370cc.

According to the owner manual on page 149 standard oil quantity is 315ml which is really low.

3
9/3/2024 3:47pm Edited Date/Time 9/4/2024 6:11am
Duke28 wrote:

Any change in cornering? 

If anything, the cornering actually improved in the gnarly, rutted corners because the front end held up better and was more predictable.  There is nothing as...

If anything, the cornering actually improved in the gnarly, rutted corners because the front end held up better and was more predictable.  There is nothing as critical to suspension setup as getting the spring rate right.  Before spending a pile of money on a revalve, I strongly suggest that you go on the Race Tech spring rate calculator and get the correct spring rates in there (cheap and easy job).  ML here has a great video on YouTube that shows you how to change fork springs without draining the oil https://youtu.be/hc5TTiCvops?si=vqBK4YmL9pGb8lcq

If you’re still bottoming the forks, try adding 10ml of oil to each fork with a syringe through the bleed hole at the top until the bottoming stops.  I sure am happy with my suspension and cornering prowess, and I only spent 2-300 bucks to get here.  My 2019 needed a fork revalve, but my 2024 sure feels pretty dialed in at this point.  I OJ’ed a jump or two over the weekend and never experienced any bottoming.

Leemur891 wrote:
My gripe with the RT calculator is it just gives me the factory spring rates front and rear. I would really like to stiffen up the...

My gripe with the RT calculator is it just gives me the factory spring rates front and rear. I would really like to stiffen up the front fork. Do you recall what factory oil level is? I see RT lists 370cc.

The factory oil volume is 321ml.  I’m a big dude (and not slow).  My 2019 was set to 370ml, so I initially set my ‘24 there, but realized I wasn’t using all my travel.  I removed 20 ml from each fork (which put me at 350ml), and felt that was plenty.  The fork felt plusher while still not bottoming.  Try going up 10ml at a time until you eliminate the bottoming.  If you feel like you need the fork to ride higher in the stroke, try going up a spring rate.  It is a whole lot cheaper and easier to accomplish than a revalve.

1
9/3/2024 4:57pm

Appreciate the feedback/guidance as always fellas. 

quadmx301
Posts
506
Joined
9/23/2014
Location
Murrieta, CA US
9/3/2024 5:49pm

Anyone else developing a mushy front brake feel at the lever? Braking power still feels good, but I don’t like the feel at the finger. 

2
Brosho
Posts
481
Joined
1/31/2011
Location
Los Angeles, CA US
9/4/2024 2:19pm
NicNak wrote:
Yeah that’s what I meant. I’m assessing an oil leak right now. I feel like it’s leaking from the counter shaft seal & dripping down but...

Yeah that’s what I meant. I’m assessing an oil leak right now. I feel like it’s leaking from the counter shaft seal & dripping down but it may be that bolt I’ll keep you posted 

NicNak wrote:
Mines the countershaft seal but the oil leaks to the lower part so it gathers oil around the lower bolt. Seals on these kawis are from...

Mines the countershaft seal but the oil leaks to the lower part so it gathers oil around the lower bolt. Seals on these kawis are from Kmart this is my 1100th seal I’ve done in 2 months.  

Did you figure out your leak? My bike has been at the shop for two weeks so far. They addressed the leaking crank bolt per kawasakis...

Did you figure out your leak? My bike has been at the shop for two weeks so far. They addressed the leaking crank bolt per kawasakis direction trying to remove it and reseal it without pulling the motor and cracking the case. Bike still leaked. After some back and forth Kawasaki told them to add a tracer material into the oil to “pinpoint” the leak even though that had already been determined and now I get a message today saying the bike is no longer leaking and the bolt was actually missing a copper washer claiming it was probably missed during assembly at the factory. Do any of your crank case bolts have copper washers? I’m not finding any on the OEM parts finder on Rocky Mountain but since I don’t have the bike here currently I figured I’d check with everyone here. I just don’t want to get screwed by the dealership. I want it fixed correctly. Thanks!

Yes I have noticed on both my 23 and 24 a few of the bolts have small copper washers   I never understood why.  

9/4/2024 2:23pm
NicNak wrote:
Mines the countershaft seal but the oil leaks to the lower part so it gathers oil around the lower bolt. Seals on these kawis are from...

Mines the countershaft seal but the oil leaks to the lower part so it gathers oil around the lower bolt. Seals on these kawis are from Kmart this is my 1100th seal I’ve done in 2 months.  

Did you figure out your leak? My bike has been at the shop for two weeks so far. They addressed the leaking crank bolt per kawasakis...

Did you figure out your leak? My bike has been at the shop for two weeks so far. They addressed the leaking crank bolt per kawasakis direction trying to remove it and reseal it without pulling the motor and cracking the case. Bike still leaked. After some back and forth Kawasaki told them to add a tracer material into the oil to “pinpoint” the leak even though that had already been determined and now I get a message today saying the bike is no longer leaking and the bolt was actually missing a copper washer claiming it was probably missed during assembly at the factory. Do any of your crank case bolts have copper washers? I’m not finding any on the OEM parts finder on Rocky Mountain but since I don’t have the bike here currently I figured I’d check with everyone here. I just don’t want to get screwed by the dealership. I want it fixed correctly. Thanks!

Brosho wrote:

Yes I have noticed on both my 23 and 24 a few of the bolts have small copper washers   I never understood why.  

I know there are certain bolts that have copper washers on them but this specific bolt isn’t supposed to have one. Heard back today and the Kawasaki rep is authorizing this as the fix even though they’ve acknowledged the kawi bond sealant is what’s leaking. Seems the proper fix would be to address that instead of adding a copper washer to a bolt that shouldn’t be holding back oil to begin with. Dealership is still helping me work through this. 

2
Markee
Posts
3658
Joined
4/15/2013
Location
Suffolk, VA US
9/5/2024 7:21am Edited Date/Time 9/5/2024 7:31am
Did you figure out your leak? My bike has been at the shop for two weeks so far. They addressed the leaking crank bolt per kawasakis...

Did you figure out your leak? My bike has been at the shop for two weeks so far. They addressed the leaking crank bolt per kawasakis direction trying to remove it and reseal it without pulling the motor and cracking the case. Bike still leaked. After some back and forth Kawasaki told them to add a tracer material into the oil to “pinpoint” the leak even though that had already been determined and now I get a message today saying the bike is no longer leaking and the bolt was actually missing a copper washer claiming it was probably missed during assembly at the factory. Do any of your crank case bolts have copper washers? I’m not finding any on the OEM parts finder on Rocky Mountain but since I don’t have the bike here currently I figured I’d check with everyone here. I just don’t want to get screwed by the dealership. I want it fixed correctly. Thanks!

Brosho wrote:

Yes I have noticed on both my 23 and 24 a few of the bolts have small copper washers   I never understood why.  

I know there are certain bolts that have copper washers on them but this specific bolt isn’t supposed to have one. Heard back today and the...

I know there are certain bolts that have copper washers on them but this specific bolt isn’t supposed to have one. Heard back today and the Kawasaki rep is authorizing this as the fix even though they’ve acknowledged the kawi bond sealant is what’s leaking. Seems the proper fix would be to address that instead of adding a copper washer to a bolt that shouldn’t be holding back oil to begin with. Dealership is still helping me work through this. 

I get the frustration. But i would prefer a cooper washer than trusting some dealer knucklehead splitting my cases.

3
Golfnut721
Posts
38
Joined
8/31/2024
Location
HELTONVILLE, IN US
9/5/2024 6:12pm

First post here-

Picking up a 2024 new from the dealer on Saturday. I have a couple questions

I'm definitely way to heavy for the stock springs and valves, so I'm going to get that setup before i even ride it. My question is do I go local with the guy that will be at one of the tracks i will occasionally race at, or do i go well known, say like Enzo? I know noting about the local guy as I've been out of the sport for 20+ years. 

Next question

Ive got a full pro circuit TI6 pro going on the bike as well as a DI filter and new 3d printed cage. Is the k&n powerflow kit worth the upgrade cost?

 

Thanks.

NicNak
Posts
1048
Joined
2/18/2019
Location
Palm Desert, CA US
9/5/2024 6:24pm
Golfnut721 wrote:
First post here-Picking up a 2024 new from the dealer on Saturday. I have a couple questionsI'm definitely way to heavy for the stock springs and...

First post here-

Picking up a 2024 new from the dealer on Saturday. I have a couple questions

I'm definitely way to heavy for the stock springs and valves, so I'm going to get that setup before i even ride it. My question is do I go local with the guy that will be at one of the tracks i will occasionally race at, or do i go well known, say like Enzo? I know noting about the local guy as I've been out of the sport for 20+ years. 

Next question

Ive got a full pro circuit TI6 pro going on the bike as well as a DI filter and new 3d printed cage. Is the k&n powerflow kit worth the upgrade cost?

 

Thanks.

K & N power flow kit? If that is twin air then yeah the juice is worth the squeeze.  Much better set up. But if you already have the 3d printed cage & filters for that I’d just run that for a while bc the flow kit won’t use that stuff. 

As for suspension I’d go Enzo based on the information you put but that’s really 6 in one hand & half a dozen in the other. Everybody is going to be split on what you should do there. 

Also do you already have the pro exhaust? The pro needs packing every 5-7 hours, let’s say you’re not going super fast then probably get away with 10 hours. The regular version packing lasts 30-40 hours 

Golfnut721
Posts
38
Joined
8/31/2024
Location
HELTONVILLE, IN US
9/5/2024 6:46pm
Golfnut721 wrote:
First post here-Picking up a 2024 new from the dealer on Saturday. I have a couple questionsI'm definitely way to heavy for the stock springs and...

First post here-

Picking up a 2024 new from the dealer on Saturday. I have a couple questions

I'm definitely way to heavy for the stock springs and valves, so I'm going to get that setup before i even ride it. My question is do I go local with the guy that will be at one of the tracks i will occasionally race at, or do i go well known, say like Enzo? I know noting about the local guy as I've been out of the sport for 20+ years. 

Next question

Ive got a full pro circuit TI6 pro going on the bike as well as a DI filter and new 3d printed cage. Is the k&n powerflow kit worth the upgrade cost?

 

Thanks.

NicNak wrote:
K & N power flow kit? If that is twin air then yeah the juice is worth the squeeze.  Much better set up. But if you...

K & N power flow kit? If that is twin air then yeah the juice is worth the squeeze.  Much better set up. But if you already have the 3d printed cage & filters for that I’d just run that for a while bc the flow kit won’t use that stuff. 

As for suspension I’d go Enzo based on the information you put but that’s really 6 in one hand & half a dozen in the other. Everybody is going to be split on what you should do there. 

Also do you already have the pro exhaust? The pro needs packing every 5-7 hours, let’s say you’re not going super fast then probably get away with 10 hours. The regular version packing lasts 30-40 hours 

lol. Just kidding i mean twin air system. 

I do already have the pro pipe. I’m old fat and slow so I’ll get a few extra hours on the packing. Plus I got a great deal on it with the bike. 

 

NicNak
Posts
1048
Joined
2/18/2019
Location
Palm Desert, CA US
9/5/2024 6:51pm
Golfnut721 wrote:
lol. Just kidding i mean twin air system. I do already have the pro pipe. I’m old fat and slow so I’ll get a few extra hours...

lol. Just kidding i mean twin air system. 

I do already have the pro pipe. I’m old fat and slow so I’ll get a few extra hours on the packing. Plus I got a great deal on it with the bike. 

 

Let us know if you have any further questions & what you think of the bike 

1
Duke28
Posts
220
Joined
12/18/2019
Location
Moto town, TX US
9/6/2024 1:55am

Anyone have a link to the T handle for the exhaust header? Can’t seem to google it. 

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