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Funny you say that. I finally changed my chain and sprockets (I went with stock gearing) and installed a 116 link chain (stock is 114) which moved my wheel back. Not that I had problems with stability before, but the bike is extremely stable now. Prior to doing this, I had raised the oil volume in the forks and installed one OEM stiffer spring in one side of the forks to increase my holdup. After lengthening the chain, I felt like my bike was riding too low in the front again, so I ordered the spring for the other side. I honestly didn't think about the fact that moving the wheel back to accommodate the longer chain put more weight on the front end which necessitated the stiffer spring. I'm actually impressed that I was sensitive enough to notice this change without anticipating it.
This bike seems like it turns almost too good. Has anyone tried putting the forks almost flush with the clamps?
No front end dive but im also running full JBI internals with stiffer springs. Im 185lbs.
Yeh. I think I would enjoy a bit more stability but would likely need to go up another spring rate (already one rate above stock in 450x at 185lb)
I currently still feel the bike will tuck and lose traction mid corner. I’m leaning towards believing it’s still too soft up front leading to tucking.
I’m really excited to try the FCP (at some point) mounts given the reviews of increased lean angle traction.
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Has anyone tried a 110/90/19 rear tire?
Flush on the upper tube or flush/flush Darkside and AC222/Ducati style?
I’ve ran OptionA numerous times with good results on the 24’ KX450 before ultimately stiffening up the fork with either oil or springs. Haven’t gone nuclear OptionB since riding/testing older CRF’s that came stock with 20mm offset triples…
The new chassis seems to like either flush or 0-2.5mm fork height for the most part.
Regarding 110/90-19 rear tires, they work good on the KX450 as well. For those in softer conditions, hard to beat a 110 Pirelli Mx-Soft (scoop, aka scooparelli to me), and Pirelli only makes a 100 and 110 sizing in production form. The new Dunlop MX34 110 rear runs a little smaller than the MX33 110, as Dunlop focused that sneaker on the 250/250F market.
Don’t forget, tire sizing varies greatly by brand. Recent experience: 110/90 Bridgestones almost look like 120’s when compared back to back with other tires. With summer SoCal conditions (baked), I have been having great luck with Bridgestone x40 or x31 rears as well as the Pirelli MidHard rear. As always, test for your given conditions and don’t be afraid to give a 110/90 a go (especially if you’re still on stock gearing and haven’t opened up the exhaust yet).
Did you figure out your leak? My bike has been at the shop for two weeks so far. They addressed the leaking crank bolt per kawasakis direction trying to remove it and reseal it without pulling the motor and cracking the case. Bike still leaked. After some back and forth Kawasaki told them to add a tracer material into the oil to “pinpoint” the leak even though that had already been determined and now I get a message today saying the bike is no longer leaking and the bolt was actually missing a copper washer claiming it was probably missed during assembly at the factory. Do any of your crank case bolts have copper washers? I’m not finding any on the OEM parts finder on Rocky Mountain but since I don’t have the bike here currently I figured I’d check with everyone here. I just don’t want to get screwed by the dealership. I want it fixed correctly. Thanks!
Dudeeee that sounds miserable. I changed my counter shaft seal & it’s good now. I am not sure about copper washers & crankcase bolts. Im sorry to hear that!
How many hours were on your clutch when you changed it? That is crazy! I replace clutches regularly & have never had this issue. You’ve got me worried now as I just put one in 😂
What are you using for replacements? OEM, Hinson, Rekluse? I want to do a Rekluse torque drive pack but its pricey. Almost makes me wonder is it worth doing the entire clutch with basket, plate, etc.
my 2019 i had 70 hours before doing a clutch, this bike i have around 50 hours on it, so definitely ready for one haha. I mean, technically you should bleed it every so often and all that. I just had air in my line that i found out. Back bled the system and zip tied the lever to the bar overnight and the pressure is back. Was more so user error than the bike.
Glad you got it figured it out!!
Just Hinson steels & fibers. I am getting a full Hinson clutch soon. Hopefully for the end of the NGPCs. What really get my clutches is the long motos 45-90 min at these gps they just get reallly hot. & im worried about breaking plates. Full Hinson should help a lot with heat & strength & durability
FYI - I have made these phone calls many many times. Your dealership is going to bat for you.
Kawasaki tech hotline is telling the dealership what direction to go not the other way around.
I don’t doubt Kawasaki is telling them what to do. My concern is that upon initially removing the crank case bolt to try to fix the issue (which Kawasaki instructed them to do) wouldn’t they have noticed a copper washer missing and start there instead of trying to apply silicone to the bolt to try to seal everything up? We’re two weeks later and now this is the information I’m getting from the dealership. Just seems odd to me.
I agree with you but also support your dealership to keep the ball rolling to fix the issue.
By Looking at the parts breakdown it does not show a gasket between the cases so they must still be using Kawabond sealant to seal that case half’s.
Definitely. Just wanted to get others opinions on what I’m seeing since the parts breakdown I’ve looked at shows no washers for the left side lower crank case bolts and make sure I’m not completely missing something when I’m looking at the parts breakdown. I really just want my bike back but I don’t want the repair to be a temp fix and have to go through this whole process again
What bolt is it again??
Pit Row
Left hand side lower crank case bolt at the rear of the engine
My 22 had a leak at the case halves from new. It's one of those deals.
I don't mind the extra work because my Kawi feels like a Cadillac cruising down Crenshaw.
Dude, you're not kidding! All the little bullshit is totally worth it. Such a great performing bike.
Well my 22 did explode at 76 hours, 20 hours after a fresh piston. If this 24 explodes, I'll be done for a while.
Just don’t have the same guy map your Vortex and you’ll be fine. That previous gen engine was pretty damn bulletproof.
That's definitely a "screw me twice" situation. This is only my 5th Kawi but other than shitty fasteners, plastic, and seals they all have been mechanically sound and good race bikes. The 24 is by far the best one I've owned.
It was mapped by Twisted Development. I really wish I knew the exact reason the other bike blew. I just assumed detonation, but the piston and head didn't really look to bad.
I agree, this is my 4th KX450. I was shimming valves on my RMZ at 35 hours and replaced at 50. My last 2 KX450s never needed a valve adjustment. My swingarm bearings on my Suzuki were worn at 60 hours. The KX was still tight at 76 hours.
I finally bit the bullet and bought one. The rebate and financing was too good to pass up. Picking it up next week. Haven't owned a Kawi since '09. I told myself I wouldn't never buy another new 450 so never say never I guess... LOL
Sorry if this was already discussed-
Are the wider programming parameters on the 25 exclusive to it, or does an updated app allow the same further adjustability on the 24?
Also, anyone with a 25 know if you can track hours with it?
Thanks
Anyone know a tool that allows you to adjust you’re compression adjuster when running the handlebars in the forward hole?
Maybe just a coincidence - put my vortex on today and 6 laps in my bike died. Just bogged out like the system cut off spark . Bike has 3 hours total since new.
No spark it appears.
fuel pump is turning on- and spraying fuel -
Put a new spark plug - checked fuel -
Now the fun starts- to trial and error what went wrong . I've heard of guys cam gear slipping - so I'll check timing-
Maybe check the tip over sensor as well - as I know that will kill spark and not let the bike fire.
If anyone has any input or experience LMK.
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