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That’s good information. Who set them up?
Why don't you have surgery? Better than any mod to your bike
Mark Johnson at AEO.
Thank you all for the discussion tips and advice as this thread has been very informative. I will do my best to provide my latest update here. Please ask if you feel I left out any details.
I finally have had a chance to test both bikes 23 KTM 350 sxf and 23 FC 350 here in Socal. As you can read prior, I have gradually made many updates over the past 8 months. The good thing is most of my updates were one at a time. During this 6 months I had the luxury to test 4 different sets of forks by different tuners. Also, the KTM vs the Husky did not always have the same updates on the bike at the same time. This allowed me to test 23.5 clamps vs 22 clamps and other parts side by side. When I test I ride 2 or 3 laps and then change one setting normally.
My last ride was at Fox Raceway last week. Both bikes have most all the same updates with the exception of triple clamps and forks. Here is a list of prior updates: floating axel blocks, Renthal fat bars, RE stearing dampers, full AKP exhaust, factory brakes, soft engine mounts, skid plates, traxx shocks, PR2 linkage, oversized floating front rotors, PHDS bar mounts, kevlar grips, Rekluse exp core 3.0 clutch, raptor pegs, and starcross 6 tires.
Now, let me explain what was different about the two bikes. KTM had xtrig 22 split clamps and Coppersmith Aero hybrid forks. Husky had RE 23.5 split clamps and a set of AEO valved CV forks. Prior to this I changed my Trax shock springs from the recommended .48 down to a .46. Side by side both bikes turned well now and settled into the ruts much better than before. I give credit to the linkage with the softer rear spring. I am 192lbs with gear. However, both bikes still had that harsh feel in the hands over the chatter or braking bumps. If you know what I mean it feels like a hard vibration. I tried going stiffer on the forks, softer, and faster. Things got a bit better when I went fully flush on the forks. So, I had a thought, I took a set of my CV forks from my KTM (taller) and swapped them to my Husky. These CV forks are valved by Powerband Racing. Bingo! I ran them one line and clickers about 15 out and the bike was amazing. Now, I will say I do not think it was only a matter of the fork valving because I had them on the KTM before and still got the harsh feeling. It must have to do with the 23.5 clamps, fork height, and the softer rear spring. Either way I was very happy and my buddy who was riding my KTM helping me swapped to the Husky and said it was day and night better. No more harsh vibration in the hands and very stable at high speeds. I look forward to testing more and have a set of 23.5 clamps for the KTM I will test as well as some new Make 360 bar mounts.
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Was your air fork also revalved by AEO?
Keefer has been singing the praises of the 23.5 RE triple clamps. He also said the Xtrig is more harsh feeling.
So, basically you greatly choppered the bike out. What effect did this have on other aspects of the handling, such as cornering, rear suspension action in acceleration bumps, etc.
Yes, that is where I got the idea. Of all his advice I would say the 23.5 clamps were the best advice. The RE 23.5 handle great.
Well, if you are riding the new gen bike then you know the rear feels high. Most people end up with a sag of about 110 on that bike trying to get it to feel good. When I was flush on the stock size forks it felt level but not perfectly comfortable. Getting just a bit length on the front allowed me to run a sag of about 105 and everything felt balanced. I did not feel low in the rear at all. I will test more on both bikes and let you know where I ended up. The bike handled better than any KTM model I had even ridden so I sure hope this translates to other tracks.
No I left them bone stock.
Next time at that track I’m trying 104 and 106 sag settings with the spring fork, running 105 now.
I have to say that the stock 24 shock settings seem quite good, I’m not sure if I want to mess with it yet.
I know I need to but self employed hard to take the time off of work
Chain tension vid is interesting for sure. I’m not sure how the rear end can work properly like that.
Yeah but with the linkage unhooked and free hanging it renders an exaggerated difference. Nonetheless the principle is for sure apparent
The linkage doesn't matter for the chain tension issue. The lower part of the chain slider under the swingarm is generating excess tension and preventing the swingarm from articulating as far as it needs to though. Not sure why that's so tall. The countershaft sprocket diameter should be sizing the slider overall height.
Is there anything we can do about the anti squat chain tension bs? Unfortunately the stock rear sprocket is already a huge 52 on the 350. So you can only go up 1 tooth on the rear of you go 1 tooth to a 15 on the front, which I feel would make the bike stall in turns. Is there chain sliders or anything like that we could do?
Im sure the speeds would wear it out too fast at the higher speeds MX bikes have but my trials bike has a spring loaded chain tensioner and it sure as hell solves a lot of problems. Can run loose chain with no annoying chain slap, chain is always taught which is critical in trials when you are doing a ton of clutch dump launches sometimes after rolling backwards. Just food for thought.
That is interesting, seems beneficial even without really dumb anti squat from using too much chain tension. Wonder if milling off a bunch of the bottom chain slider would do anything
We did this in the beginning of long travel in the 1970’s.
Pit Row
The swingarm pivot to counter shaft location determines the bikes anti squat character. While you don’t want chain overly tight, the tension won’t change the character. As long as it’s loose enough to go through travel, there’s not much more you can do.
I looked into 15t front and 53/54 rear but the 15 didn’t look like it would fit.
Another thing to note is that if the chain seems too loose on the stand, once you are at sag it’s not sloppy.
On my 2024 KTM450xcf I run 15/49. the 15 tooth counter shaft sprocket fits. You have to trim the sprocket cover with a razor blade just a little. Takes 2 minutes.
Holy shit. What does that top out at? My 350 does 94mph with 14/52 lol
its not for top speed. I race desert on it, thats why so tall geared. Very rarely able to run pinned wide open on the course. The gearing is used to keep the power/torque in the rpm range to match the terrain. A lot of people think taller gearing is for top speed only, not the case ate all.
This would be a good test for someone if they went 15/54.
It wouldn't be exactly like a 14/52, but should free up the rear end slightly when on throttle by lifting the chain off the top of the swingarm.
Oh I didn’t assume it was just for top speed, I also ride desert so I understand 👍
I'll do it but I cant find a 54 tooth
Is this correct?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/125740806949?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632…
Hah yeah that will work, doesn't list the new bikes but it's the same bolt pattern. Would 120 links be enough tho lol
How’s everyone doing with setup now?
I ended up getting the jbi diy kit for my cone valves and the front end feels amazing. It was kind of weird at first because I was used to how the cvs held up on the stroke, but the front end feel is really good and plush. Flat corners while standing seems to pretty good and predictable
Mine is dialed in pretty good now. Very happy with the turning, softer feel, and no harsh vibration in my hands. I have one last part to test but I think it is a no brainer. That part is a set of foot pegs that are 10mm lower and 10mm back. I noticed that I often felt like it was difficult going from sitting to standing. Also, it felt like the pegs were a bit forward compared to other bikes. Already it feels better just sitting on the bike but I have yet to ride it with the new pegs. Maybe tomorrow!
That’s awesome. Let me know how the pegs work out, I was considering trying a different offset. I think the 10 down 10 back could possibly help me out too
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