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Only $10 for all 2026 SX, MX, and SMX series.
This is good advice for pretty much anything on a bike. Set the fork height and sag to your liking and break it in for an hour.
I have never noticed the clutch being stiffer than any other Japanese bike / cable set up.
Got a few rides on the 110 rear tire on the 2.15 rear wheel. Mostly on sand but some harder dirt as well. It’s much better. I can trust the rear wheel so much more exiting turns. In deep sand, the 100 rear would spin so much. Now it actually hooks up. There is slightly more engine breaking in deep sand, but that’s handled by not letting off completely. I went to a 51 rear sprocket, feels about the same to me power wise.
I might have missed it. But did you switch away from the Pirelli also when you switched setups?
Nope, still on the mid soft, I love them. Works really well where I ride, where there is some deep sand but also some slicker hard areas.
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Just thought I’d ask. I never could fully trust my Pirelli even in the setup you have now, it was better than stock but still not as good as my previous Michelin’s. Switched to a Dunlop MX33 in the same size and it’s been money! Love it. I ride a ton of sand with it (Sandy oaks in Keithsburg, IL there is a thread on the place haha).
Please all tell me your fork height an bar position
Forks flush and rear wheel scooted back with 116 link chain! I ride mostly sandy faster tracks and this helped stability, along with more sag. Bar position stock.
1mm fork height, sag at 108, extra link on the chain, FC linkage. I think this is as good as it's going to get.
5mm fork height, stock bar position. I’m a shorter guy so don’t shift weight around as much as the 6ft’ers will do and I like the front nice and pointy. I’m trying the trick of tightening the steering lug once I get back out to see if that helps the head shake a little bit I can ride around it if not no problem, I only find it a minor issue. That’s running UK tracks which are mostly clay/soft ground that’s watered and ripped to be rough as shit.
Forks flush, 110 sag, stock bars/position, 1 tooth smaller rear sprocket.
Anyone know where I can get the Shop/Service Manual for the 22 CRF250R?
They are crazy hard to find. I broke down and ordered one yesterday from www.helminc.com. Manual number is 61K9550. Don't get super excited about the price, because the shipping and handling is crazy high.
Anyone running a longer shift lever (Hammer Head) or longer shift lever replacement tip?
If just a replacement tip for the stock lever what brand/where did you find it?
I find the stock lever too short and too low but if I raise it one spline it is way too high.
I wear a size 10 Tech 7 boot normally. I tried a set of size 10 O'neal boots and all of the above issues were WORSE, I guess it is "thicker" in the toe area.
THANKS GUYS
Zeta Revolver shift lever. But I recommend 1/2" offset footpegs as well. I have both and around same boot size. With offset footpegs bike is more stable on straights
Hammerhead with +15mm tip. I wear size 12 and it feels normal.
Anyone have leaks from the water leakage check hole? I have a tiny tiny bit of oil or coolant (I use Motul oil, so unfortunately it's hard to tell if it's that or coolant) that came out.
Yeah, ive noticed i have a very little amount of coolant come out of their as well.
Yeah, I don't know if it's coolant or oil for me. It was light green (the color of Motul oil), and there was some blue coolant under my skid plate when I went to wash the bike. But my radiators are full. Drained the oil, correct amount, looked totally fine. Very confusing.
Nothing draining while running it on the stand for about 10 minutes total.
Is there any "normal" amount of coolant or oil to expect to see from that hole?
Pit Row
15 race hours so far this year, haven't added any coolant, or lost oil. Do leak some coolant tho out the weep hole, but obviously not much.
Check out page 2-48 in your competition handbook.
Heres some of what the book says... If water leaks through the bleed hole, replace the mechanical seal.
If oil leaks through the bleed hole, replace the oil seal.
Make sure that there is no continuous coolant leakage from the bleed hole while operating the engine.
NOTE • A small amount of coolant weeping from the bleed hole is normal. < this is us pretty sure were alright.
My 17 CRF450 always has a bit of black oil around that weep hole. Even after replacing the bearing, oil seal and mechanical seal. I wouldn't worry about it to much.
Yeah I’ve seen a small amount of coolant before, what worries me is the bike felt like it was running a tad hot, and there was coolant between the frame and the skid plate. The color was also green, which is my oil, not the coolant.
I’m due for a top end (40 hours, mostly precautionary), so I’ll have my guy do the seals, not much extra for the parts and labor. I’ll report back how the seals looked (and the piston!).
Did this sell? I'll buy!
Sold, sorry!
Installed the Magura hydraulic clutch kit today. Not ridden yet, but the clutchpull feels much lighter. I hope its worth the 300 bucks
Does the Magura increase the longevity as well? I have honestly not had any issues with the clutch. I replaced it about 10 hours ago, realized the one with ~20 hours on it was totally fine. I wouldn't say I abuse the clutch, but I am not someone who never uses it.
It's funny, everyone who rides mine says how amazing the clutch feels, even dudes that normally ride Austrian. I haven't had any issues with the clutch. I plan on replacing the top end along with the clutch over winter, bike just hit 40 hours yesterday.
do you pull the clutch with one finger? maybe i am just weak^^
One finger, never have any issues
Selling the 2022 and getting a 2024...
https://www.vitalmx.com/forums/salebazaar/2022-crf250r-37-6-hours-facto…
Same here
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