Posts
158
Joined
10/12/2013
Location
Roselle, IL
US
Edited Date/Time
7/4/2015 1:33am
take a look at the photos. This is after riding the bike for about 30-60 minutes. Not racing, just recreational motocross. This is a 2001. The oil spooge drips out of the silencer onto the swingarm. The engine was rebuilt by a pro 2 years ago. I put another new piston in it just a few months ago. I rode it earlier today. I have owned the bike for 4 years. It has "ALWAYS" done this, even before the engine rebuild. I recently rejetted the carb main jet and pilot jet. That made it run better. I downsized them both 1 size from factory specs (leaner) a couple months ago. The bike runs very good at high rpm. Lots of power at high rpm (crazy fast), but at low and mid rpm - very little power. I'm running 32:1. The exhaust power valve works fine. I never changed the silencer packing - I'm sure it's full of oil, but that's likely not the problem - I'm sure it's a carb or tuning or fuel issue? Don't know. I'm looking for someone who had the same problem and learned how to fix it.
thanks. Lee
thanks. Lee
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you notice lesd oil when changing tranny fluid?
going down a main and it still does that,but revs good,
honda have a case gasket ?
Pit Row
Spooge is not caused by too much oil. It's caused by combustion temps that are too low to burn the oil that is there. And low combustion temps are primarily caused by jetting that is too rich for the riding you are doing.
You need to clean and repack your silencer and get all the oil out of the pipe and ideally clean your power valve as well. Then you can start trying to get it jetted correctly. Your silencer packing is so full of oil right now that thing will be spooging for the next decade no matter what you change.
Certain fuels and oils are more prone to spooge. Pump gas is usually pretty bad and oils with a high flash point are less likely to burn completely.
i would have to dip my finger in it and smell to tell you if its 2str oil or out the gear box.
Couldn't agree more. Focus on your jetting, change packaging, and lookat the flashpoint of your oil. A little bit is ok, but that is crazy.
I've dug out my old specs book from back in the day and I had specs for 00' and an 02 model that I never had any issues with. Note these are Australian models running 95 octane (RON). Other than the oxygenated fuels in the US, the specs I read on the net guys in the US run are pretty similar to what I use for other bikes so no need to panic.
2000
350 main (360 stock)
45 pilot (50)
standard 6BEG20-69 in 2nd clip (3rd clip)
2002
360 (400)
standard 32.5 pilot
standard needle in 2nd from 3rd
Pro circuit specs
Standard 380 45 6BEG20-68 in 3rd slide 5 air screw not recorded
Pro Circuit 370 37.5 6BEG20-69 (leaner) in 2nd std slide air screw 1.5
I would go 360 main and 35 pilot or even 32.5 and 6BEG20-69 in 2nd. air screw around 1.5 out. If your pilot is too lean, the bike will be too revvy straight off idle to quarter throttle, and you wont blow it up with too lean a pilot so experiment there all you want and you'll figure it out. The 68 and 69 on the needle is the size of the thicker straight section and affects the bike from about quarter to half throttle, 68 being smaller than the 69 and therefor richer. If you're too lean on the needle you'll loose power through the mid and it will ping under hard load. The clip position affects from quarter to 3 quarter. The main affects from half through to full in conjunction with the taper on the needle, but mostly at full. This setting will be good for anything but drag racing or long track. Put these in and go for a good blast, it will come back smoking from the pipe as all the oil burns off, and after a good days riding and burning, then repack your muffler. Better still, get an after market silencer. I used to run FMF shorty with Fatty pipe to beef the low and mid a little. If all that seems too much, buy and fit a JD jet kit, or pay someone who can jet.The bike will go sooooo much better and is usually better money spent than a pipe.
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