2013 KTM 250 SX

I've noticed some shifting issues too lately, is there a stiffer spring available yet??

Markee.....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ruy7lxSf5CA

Kyran5....
Cometic makes a gasket for this that solved the problem for lots of people.

Another source for the cometic gasket

One more

if you get the gasket get it from Slavens. good people. he had a few videos on youtube that helped tons when doing my 300 kit and setting the Z axis. i love to support people that take that time to help others.

All you guys with the Ohlins boingers, how good are they? How do they compare to revalved stock stuff?

I am trying to decide between revalve and spring the stock stuff, or dropping a little more coin for the Ohlins cartridges and Shock.

I love the Ohlins stuff on my bike. I had Factory Connection revalved stuff prior to my Ohlins. The FC stuff had a high speed spring seat, bladder kit, oil lock collars...everything they recommended. After talking to some guys with Ohlins and how they raved about it, I was tempted to try it. I was openly apprehensive after talking to them and the shop I got it from when they said that it doesn't come valved specifically for you. It just didn't make sense that "shelf" valving with some springs would be better than my FC revalved stuff. It was explained to me that unless you're a woods guy or an ultra fast expert (neither of which apply to me), they hadn't had any sets come back to be reworked. Needless to say, I bit the bullet and made the purchase.

The spring rates they suggested were WAY different than my FC stuff. When I put it on the bike felt super plush in the initial stroke to the point that I was nervous. I called Digger and the shop I got it from and I was reassured that it would hold up in the travel. It felt too plush to not hang down to me. But I'd already bought it...might as well run it.

My initial impressions on the track completely alleviated any concern I had that it would hang down. My bike tracks ultra straight through acceleration and braking bumps and is responsive to hard landings as well. It allows me to be lazy and sit going through braking bumps if I want to. But also responds when I start to push hard on it. The clickers are SUPER sensitive though. You only need to go one to two clicks at a time to have a very noticeable feel.

The biggest thing I've noticed as it breaks in is that I have to keep on top of the sag. My stuff is still breaking in and getting better and better.

I think it was a good investment. I stuck my FC stuff on the shelf so that when the time comes I can sell my Ohlins separate from the bike. I figure I'll be able to recover a decent portion of my funds and for roughly the price of a good suspension revalve (what I paid minus what I should sell it for), I get to ride top shelf stuff.

Shane

Edit: My forks are the full Ohlins RXF forks and not just the cartridge.

Shane.....mind me asking what you paid for that setup? I don't have any complaints with my suspension....but I am always curious if there is something better out there.

I got them from Dean Burke at Burke Motorsports. He does a great deal on Ohlins. Somewhere around $3600ish. Each set is a little different based on spring needs. I had to swap fork springs.

I have heard some possible supply issues causing a delay in availability. But I don't know how accurate that is.

Shane

I raced my KTM for the first time this weekend with the Ohlins on it at a track that has soft dirt with big jumps and that gets super rough and choppy and I was so happy with the way my bike worked there. The stuff is just unbelievable in the rough and the rougher the track got the more the stuff shined. I was going right through the roughest lines at the end of the day when I'm usually searching out the smoother lines or riding the extreme edges of the track. I got my stuff directly from Ohlins USA and it will be going right on my 15 250SX the day I get it. Shane is definitely right, it needs to break in and one click is very very noticeable so the guys that go crazy with the flat blade will need to take it easy when adjusting the Ohlins stuff. I'm running a 100mm of sag and I have my stuff set up so it's moving pretty fast and it is just amazing.

You fuckers with your Ohlins on your pumpkins are making me sad!!!

I just mentioned here locally that I'm trying to get an early release 15 250SX and I got like 5 texts and at least that many phone calls in the last 24hrs from people who want my bike. I have a guy coming here at 11 this morning to give me $500 so I'll hold it for him. I did a ton of work to his 14 250SX for him and I let him ride my bike at a local track when I ran into him earlier this spring and he said I want this bike when you decide to sell it. Try that 10yrs ago with your KTM. You couldn't give them away back then :-)

Yeah mate, it's pretty crazy.

Generations apart I think about my 06 300 and my buddies 13, or even my 13 350, they've just come on so much. Honestly I think Japan should be a lot more worried than they are, if KTM sorts their boingers to be more compliant then no one would complain about anything. At all.

Sell me your ohlins!

I told him that I'm keeping the Ohlins and the brand new wheels that I just built. My other SM Pro's are still in mint shape and have brand new tires on them so no biggie there for him.

Digger, the 15' has a longer shock so you might have to let your shock go and replace it with a new one.

I got a stock 14 linkage for free this morning from a buddy this morning who put a PC link on his bike to lower the rear of his bike. That should be all I'd need in order to run my Ohlins shock & if it's not I'll send my shock to Ohlins to make the necessary changes.

Hey KTMShane699, email me at robinmac82@yahoo.com if your interested in swapping my stock 2013 250sx stuff (with 16.2 hours) and cash for your FC stuff.

Are the 14 150's having the gasket problem too? Noticed some oil under my 150 two rides ago, then yesterday there was a heap.

Tightened the bolts up, see if it resolves the problem.

I'm having some weird clutch problems with my bike lately.

It all started when I was in a mud race about a month ago and I rode so terribly that I fried the clutch plates. We installed new plates and changed the oil. No noticible damage was done to the basket or anywhere else. I also installed the 280psi washer.

Since then, the clutch has been constantly fading and coming back. I will go out and have the clutch fade one lap in, and then it will return a few corners later (if I don't use it) and keep doing that constantly. Any ideas on what's happening?

Try bleeding hydraulic clutch.

Fearo remove the pump??? Dont know how to call it but remove the lower end of teh hydrauLic clutch so you can remove all the fluid. Do not open the bleeder, just push the lever so it expulses a pistón that there is down there. Fluid will flow.... Clean everything, clean the seal, and if the cylinder where the seal sits, you can polish it a little bit. Then put everything together agan, an push the fluid with a big sringe from the bleeder until it apears in the top part of the system. I hope you understood my english fro the phone haha

Thanks for the response. I have bled the system, makes no difference. I will try to figure out what Berni means next .

So a stock 2014 ktm 250 sx. 40:1. What jetting should I run? I've read a bunch if different stuff on here? Not sure what's 250, 300, 38 PWK. Mine is stock. Thanks guys!

I installed a new clutch and am experiencing clutch drag and quick engagement. I have the lever set all the way and have changed the oil and bled and bled and put the old clutch back in and still no change in disengagement. I do not abuse the clutch and it was not that bad when I changed it. It is really affecting my starts with this quick engagement.

I think what he was saying was to remove the slave cylinder from the cases, don't open the bleed screw and push the slave cylinder piston out by pumping the clutch lever.

Once the piston is out, clean the seal on the slave cylinder piston as well as the bore it rides in. Install the piston into the cylinder until it bottoms. Back fill the system through the bleed screw on the slave cylinder with a big syringe and hose connected to the bleed screw (this will force air up into the master cylinder instead of trying to force it down the line against gravity).
Note - If necessary, I like to tap the lines with the hard plastic handle of a screwdriver to help free air bubbles from the sides of the line.

Reinstall the slave cylinder, tighten the mounting bolts and see if the problem has been solved.


Hope it helps.

Has anyone figured out a stiffer spring for the little shift thingy to cure the upshift problems? My bike is apart for this and I'd rather make an upgrade if it's available.

Thanks.