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7/3/2019
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So I just got my WP AER forks back after a single side spring conversion. Trying to line things up for the front axle. Unless something is bent up that I didn't know about. I need to have the left side fork (which now has the spring) way higher VS. The right side to make the axle slide properly, left leg on line three right leg on line two. Does this sound normal? Again assuming everything is correct, it seems like the left fork leg is longer now.
That doesn’t sound normal at all. I’m guessing a Husky vs Ktm mixup by your suspension guy?
Maybe longer stiffer spring?
No it's my stuff, it's probably a me thing. I just wanted to make sure this wasn't a common thing before I try and figure out what I'm doing wrong.
Are you sure the damper leg is pulled all the way down?
Also, check whether fhe fork guard covers the protector ring... if doesn't, something needs to be checked
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Yes everything is pulled down
could you provide details on the conversion kit. I'm wanting to do one on my bike shortly.
Something isn’t right. I had a single spring conversion done on my katoom last summer and it went back together easy.
btw, you’ll love the spring conversion.
Measure from the fork lug to the dust seal on each fork, they should be the same
Something is definitely not right
I know my KYB spring conversion which included the KYB lugs inside WP tubes, made the fork a tad shorter. I now run mine flush up in the clamps to compensate for length.
If you only had 1 side done, maybe something similar, I don't know, but just bringing up this scenario.
I'm sure a call to your suspension tuner that did your conversion, will clear everything up, good luck!
Just out of curiosity, how does the one side spring conversion feel? My re valved airs feel decent most of the time, but will randomly feel like my smashing my rim on a square edge out of no where. I also don’t care for the fork feel on slap down landings
Have you wound off the compression adjuster all the way?
On my K-Tech kit you can't set compression until the front wheel is fitted and bolted up, or you get this scenario.
It may be different for you / yours but just wanted to mention it.
I also had it on a previous bike where the big ally hex nut at the base wasn't seated correctly which could potentially be real sketchy and/or damage the hex nut (luckily it's softer than the fork aluminium hec at least).
The single side spring conversion on its own is 'meh', but with the ORVS valving jobber upgrade it is quite good though I'm the slowest dude on here so take that opinion with a handful of salt.
Did you service your damper side as well? some models have the “bumper” for lack of better term that sits outside the cartridge to keep the jam nut from crashing into the seal head of the cartridge. if this gets installed on the inside of the cartridge you effectively choke up the cartridge length which then could make your fork short compared to the spring side…
easiest way to tell if you’re correct length or not measure from the upper tube and top cap mating surface to the center line of your axle hole on the lug.
Pull the bleed screw on the damper side to see if there’s a vacuum holding that leg up.
Yes both forks were serviced. I just checked, left leg is an 1/8 longer. I was doing some digging and found old post of guys saying their single side conversions needed to be set with left fork higher in the clamp. But I will get ahold of my suspension guy and see if something needs to be adjusted internally on that left side. Thanks for the suggestion to take measurements, I got so off track putting things together/taking things apart several different times that I didn't even think about the basics.
What brand are you on? I did the RT conversion on my 22 Husky and it is a different part number than the KTM, I expect due to the different length.
Race Tech
I know I just saw something about that on a YouTube rebuild video warning if you don’t do something or another that will happen. You just need to figure out what something or another is.
Pit Row
Please get back to us with your findings.
There is a different part inside the fork between year 17/20 and 21/22, that can affect the overall lenght of the fork, make sure you got the right one
Will do
I just put a spring conversion in my 21' FX350, before ordering I was doing some part number research and they have different part numbers for a 21 KTM and a 21 Husky. But the FX models are not 10mm shorter but they share the same part number as the FC which are 10mm shorter.
Interesting.
I've got 2 bikes that have the Ktech conversion and both of them seem exactly they same as they always were.
We had the k tech single side and now the 6500 dual conversion. No such issues with either. Your tuner may have used the wrong kit. IIRC a year change requires different lugs?
This is what i was referring to. We got the 6500 kit from a 16-18 i think, and had to change lugs on the 23 to fit correctly
Not sure the ins and outs of it, but tuner changed a plastic spacer in the left fork leg. Now things line up as they should. Thanks guys!
Glad you found the problem. Let us know what you think of the conversion, it would be interesting to see if your results line up with the results I’ve had. I really like mine after a spring conversion and RT valving.
Ohlins cartridge in mine. Plush on the chop(sprang ) and no bottom out(air). Now with lower air pressure, the air spring doesn't ramp up as quickly. It's important to maintain the balance. If the spring is too soft, running the air up will get the air spring harshness.
Though great on the track, front sticks like glue, but there seems to be some dead feel off jumps. I'm going to swap my '17 yz250f front end and cast clamps from my 200sx! '24 billet clamps and hybrid fork may be a better match for the spring in it.
That sounds decent. I’m not sure if something is up with my forks, they sometimes feel great on chop, then other times it feels like my forks were replaced with 2x4s. And it’s not consistent at all, just one bump out of the chop just makes the forks not compress or something
I picked up some cone valves, but will still be trying to find a good setting with air
I gather the cone valves are not quite plush initially.
Good luck
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