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dis ^^^

I'm no suspension tech, but 51mm rider sag seems a little low, maybe should be more like 60 - 70. You could start by taking out that 6mm of preload, hypothetically making your rider sag around 57.

So since you mentioned weight... : Have you verified the 192lb figure using a scale of your own? Is this the dry weight? Or with oil, coolant, fuel? You should weigh each of the new parts that you put on the bike and compare them to OEM, and report the results. You should try running fat bike mountain bike tubes...

One of the things that's always fascinated me about dirt bikes is the way in which all of the design elements so delicately play together to give each bike a unique and distinct character, like how Suzukis are know for "cornering on rails". Frame geometry, triple clamp design, rear linkage dimensions, flex characteristics, engine mounting, weight distribution, wheelbase, suspension setup...

Haha, I love how unmolested bone stock two strokes are now considered "kick ass". I completely agree. The one below was recently for sale in AZ:

https://www.biketiresdirect.com/product/surly-fat-bike-ultra-light-26-i… https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/michelin-starcross-5-medium-terrain… Depending on your current set up, you might knock about 2 lbs off running these items.

^^ THIS ^^ If your parents get hurt racing, you're going to have to pick up the slack around the house, which will definitely cut into your riding time.

They should make a "track only" version of this bike that uses a small battery that is quick and easy to change out. That way you would have less weight to drag around on the track (maybe like 25lbs less if the battery was half the current size?), and a couple spare batteries on the charger back at the truck...

Hey ML512, if you owned one of these, would you put a rear brake lever in place of the missing clutch lever, to free up both feet? I can't help but think that that would be really beneficial.

Yeah, you could run the bike for a bit with the power valve cover off, I've done worse . The noise sounds heavy and deep to me, heavier than a light power valve part. Did you check the piston/cylinder clearance with a dial bore gauge? What crank did you put in? Was it in alignment and well balanced? Did you...

Yeah, between frame stretch and case stretch, it seems like new bikes are the only way to go. So we're stuck with either KTM or Yamaha.

If you're going to replace any bearings, definitely use the heat/freeze technique. It takes patience and a few tries, but don't give in to the temptation to press or hammer any bearings in because you will dramatically increase the risk of damaging the cases. And when you're reinstalling the crank, be aware that any side force on the main bearings...

A spacer in between cylinder and head pipe will complement the low-mid range, while no spacer will complement mid-upper ranger. If it's a 125, I'd take the spacer out, as 125s work best in the upper revs anyway.

150f is the only way to go for an absolute newbie, especially one that only weight 110lbs.

Up/down votes for posts within a thread makes a lot of sense to me. I don't see it as a form of reward or punishment to the posters themselves, but rather just a simple way of controlling the quality of the content in the forum. Accurate, novel or amusing content will rise to the top. Inaccurate, redundant or malicious content...

Well the YZ fender in the photo was lying around from an 05 YZ I had parted out a few months prior. I threw it on the scale and it won me over. Plus, white would look stupid.