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Only $10 for all 2026 SX, MX, and SMX series.
Probably the caliper seizing. You can probably find a cheap used one on mx locker or rebuild the one you have.
I'd just do like you said, buy a new one and then rebuild the old one for a backup/practice bike. Resell value isn't great right now on them. More fun to keep.
Possibly overfilled. Try setting the level only about 3/4 way up the sight glass.
Steering stem bearing took a sh*t on my bike at 30 hours. I greased them really well when new. Was very careful with the power washer and always blew the bike off with compressed air afterwards. They were fine the last ride in the fall and went to move it recently and they're notchy. I'm pretty disappointed.
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It seems that way. OEM crank is 500$, what do you guys think about using a Pro-X rod kit?
My clutch basket is pretty notched, I'm going to take some pics and see what you guys think. I don't want to file it, and it feels fine at the lever.
If you like it pretty snug it will go bad in 30 hours for sure.
Is DOT 5 okay with the nissin system? Most are DOT 4, dot 5 is silicone based and can swell the seals.
I have them a little on the tight side. Are you replacing with OEM or is there a better option?
Anyone that uses the Tusk Quick Air setup, put grease on the seal, mount it, then pull it out and review the grease, mine has about a .010" gap in the front bottom portion where it is not making contact with the airbox.
I have had the most luck with oem. Anyone else had luck with aftermarket?
Dot 5 is silicone based and will make the seals swell and might increase the pressure in the system and therefore lock the brake.
Use dot 4 or 5.1. 5.1 got higher boiling point.
I am running one and haven't checked it but have not seen a signs of dirt/dust getting by. Imagine Pro-seal might solve that?
This. I skipped right over the part in the original post about using DOT-5. Definitely a no-no.
I just pulled mine and it looked perfect. I don't grease the seal but there is no sign of leakage, it actually seems to fit really tightly. I really like the setup.
Mine appears to fit tight as well and after a relatively wet desert race I don't see any signs of dirt ingestion in the air boot. Only reason I noticed it was because I greased the seal to be sure as I had no way to physically feel around the sealing area like I would typically on euro bikes, and upon removing the filter noticed a 3-4" section with grease undisturbed. With the filter off a .010" feeler gauge easily fits between the seal and airbox. In a silty race this would be a huge issue.
I'll grease mine before riding this weekend and see if I see any issues. Could yours be warped? Where is the spot that isn't sealing?
I run the filter set up too and am a clean filter freak. I do not grease mine, but I clean the surfaces each filter change, which is one practice day or one race day. Intake has remained clean and seal surfaces are clean. I do only have 27 hours on the bike and filter set up.
I did attempt to use the pro seal when I got the filter kit, and it was to tight to fit the Tusk kit into the slider tabs with the pro seal installed.
Pit Row
Yep I tried the Pro seal today with the Tusk and had the same result.
Picked up v1 of the full yosh system for a smoking deal and got it installed today. I’ve been running the gutted stock can since I purchased the bike. I know everyone has their opinions on exhausts, but man, I feel like I’ve been riding a restricted bike this entire time until now. Stoked with the upgrade.
Did you guys have issues when first installing? Mine doesn’t line up properly. Seems it’s just a tick off and hits the plastic on the backside not letting it go into place.
Mine fits very tight as well and takes a bit of a push to get the pins in the holes. It is definitely a much tighter fit than the stock cage and I do have to fiddle with it to get it all the way in but to me, this is a good thing and helps to make it fit tighter against the rubber seal.
Found that if you move the Tusk filter assembly up and down it helps getting it seated all the way if that makes sense?
I don’t have issues with it lining up, but agree with crmx here, you do have to put it in relatively flat to the mating surface on the air box to get the cage into the OEM tabs on the far side of the air box. That slight movement up and down to seat the cage under the tabs is what I think he’s referring to.
I get my cage in with filter complete, then after latching, I use my hand with thin rubber gloves to reach in and ensure everything is in its place under the tabs. I do this with any air filter change, but this air box is just impossible to see into.
Yes. There are holes on the back side of the air box that the base plate lock's into. The Tusk base plate is a much tighter fit so when you move it up and down it locks one corner in at a time which makes it easier. The holes are on the end of the track that the filter assy slides into, not to be confused with the holes where you clip the assy in.
RMATV sent me a replacement cage and still have a .010" gap between the seal and the airbox.
FYI, Rockymountain/Tusk have been great to work with and have currently pulled the filter assembly from their site while they review this issue.
Is the 25/26 ecu plug and play with the 2024?
If they put a thicker gasket on the filter base plate it should solve the issue?
Did you check part number?
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