Dead Engine Start Tips (In Gear)

I remember we used to pull in the clutch, put the bike in gear, rev it up a few times, and then let the engine die without letting go of the clutch.  

You have to hold the clutch in until they drop the banner.  This is supposed to hold the clutch plates a little more open, (so I was told).  

Seemed like it worked when we did it back in the day,...

1. swap your buttons, put the start on the left and the kill on the right. Makes it easier to get on the gas.
2. Hold the clutch lever all the way to the bar, don't let it out after you kill the engine (keeps clutch plates from sticking)
3. Practice to find how much throttle your bike likes to fire, some like none, some like a little, some like a lot (mostly 2 strokes)
4. Practice to find which gear works best
5. Practice body position to eliminate wheelie or spinning, weight over the bars vs. weight over the rear.
6. Bike specific strategies you might pursue: upgrade the battery, valve clearances in the middle of specs, roll the bike around to find TDC, temperature, mapping, priming the fuel pump, etc.

Never had a 4 stroke that started well in gear. Only bikes that do were 2 strokes. Try starting 1 foot up, neutral, ready to shift to 2nd when the flag drops.

Make sure your bike and clutch are warmed up really good before you get to the line. Also maybe a higher amp battery to get that thing turning over while it’s in gear.  

This 100%

Make sure the bike/Clutch is warm!

Rev the bike, with the clutch in, and hit the kill switch while the RPMs are high...do NOT let go of the clutch until the banner drops, when you do this make sure the bike isn't trying to roll forward or backward (while sitting there should be no tension on the chain) so the motor is completely free. 

I'd always be in 2nd gear as well (but I've always raced 450's but depending on the start you could probably get away with that on a 350?)

While pushing the button, start rolling the bike forward with your feet...so the bike is in gear, starting to roll forward with your feet, while you simultaneously push the start button...

Practice starts a lot...every bike has its little quirks...some like a tiny bit of throttle, some like none...learn what works consistently for your bike. 

This plus, back in the day with carbureted 2 strokes at least, full throttle when the kill switch was pushed.

Extra fuel in the cylinder? No idea. A faster guy than me told me to do it and I did. 

Antigravity 801 battery. It requires a slight mod to the battery box, but it’ll get that motor spinning quick.

Raced dead engine starts for years, only 2 stroke though. Thankfully I have natural quick reactions but my routine was.....

Charge the battery fully the night before, always start the bike on Kickstarter until the flag drops, 

Fresh oil makes a huge difference to clutch drag, always noticed that it doesn't turn over as quickly with used gearbox oil. 

Start button on left, kill on right, as people say warm engine up thoroughly before your start, and kill engine with it in gear leaving clutch pulled fully in.   

Imagine and believe you are going to be the first into the corner.   

thsts my routine anyway...... Oh and don't forget to check your fuel tap at least 10 times 😂

Cheat like I did and run a Rekluse. I was off the gate before some guys even got their bike started.

A better battery helps. The stock one can’t turn over a 250f fast enough. Start with the throttle cracked. That tip came from Stu Baylor I think. I also roll the throttle on as it is cranking but that is on a tbi bike. I never tried it on a four stroke. I put the start button on the right for two reasons. First that is what I learned on and two I like having my clutch hand free to work the clutch without worrying about the button. 

I found the best thing for dead engine starts.  Do what this guy did, bought a Stark.  Big Bear grand Prix, this guy made it look easy.  

Best battery you can get is always helpful.  I know some teams running a second battery to give 24v straight to the starter for a faster hit.  I run Super B batteries in my race bikes which DOES make a difference in cranking speed.  Kinda hard to get and very expensive but worth it.  Off Road Champions in Colorado are the only US dealer last time I checked.  ALSO, make sure your grounded with a good cable right from the starter bolt straight to the battery.  Star washers also help get a good consistent contact though the metal to the cable.  This eliminates any resistance the starter could see through any other chassis grounding.  

This is why they need there own class. The Stark isn't dead unless the battery is dead. Comparable to ICE the motor might as well be running and in gear. 

sell it and buy a yz125 or yz250. your dead engine troubles will be a thing of the past, youll be stuck trying to figure out what to do with 30 bikes chasing you after you get the hole shot

I raced my 2021 FX350 a lot, it would usually start up decently quick but not the fastest off the line ever, make sure bike is warmed up and then keep clutch pulled in and then give the button a short press right before the 10 second call. DO NOT GIVE IT ANY GAS, if I gave it gas before it was fully fired up it would flame out and take me 30 seconds for it to fire back up. 

I race a 300XC TBI now and holeshotted most of the races this year, rolling on the throttle while starting then its just a matter of keeping the front wheel somewhat close to the ground. 

All dead engine starts should include straddling the front fender… and a kickstarter. 

I seen where some guys replace the battery cables with thicker wires or even double them up. Don't personally know if that worked but the couple I did talked to said it did make it turn over faster.

Another thing that will help is to push the bike forward with your legs as you are starting it.

It does add extra embarrassment if it doesn't start though 😂

Same, it was almost hilarious. Bunch of kids got me by the second corner though.

Set your idle above 2250. Up to 2350.

You're welcome.

Unless you have an auto clutch that is idle rpm sensitive.

OG KX500 method for novelty sake.

Warm up bike, clean it out, clutch in, put it in 2nd gear. Rev it some more. Hit the kill button, keep clutch in and as the motor is dying, open the throttle wide to charge the cylinder. Carefully push the kickstarter till you feel compression. Do not push beyond that. Kickstarter back up to the top to get max swing. If you do it right, and it will take some practice, you can literally push the kickstarter through as you simultaneously slowly let out the clutch.

Don’t forget a buddy to use ribbon tape to hold the kickstarter out and engaged 😂

Man the push button made life so much easier