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I saw earlier in the thread where someone bumped up the TPS voltage. Has anyone with a Vortex, (or remapped ECU) adjusted their TPS? I have reset my '19 to factory spec's. (slide adjusted to the bottom and set to .4 volts) It now runs around .56 to .58 at ~2000 rpm. Is there any reason to adjust further? I do feel mine doesn't crank as fast as other 350's I ride with. Curious...?
Won’t work.
I had a chance to ride the fully stock 2022 KTM 350 SX-F yesterday afternoon and played with ECUs and AER fork settings.
Current summary:
(1) Stock ECU is weak, right away made me question 350s
(2) TZR reprogrammed stock ECU is gooooood. Map 2 with and without traction control is quite excellent. This alone made the bike "a keeper" for me, assuming I'd have to go up a few teeth on the rear for some more low-end grunt + a full exhaust.
(3) Finally tried the Twisted Development programmed Vortex ECU and for me it was even better than the TZR ECU for the most part. I'd guess the TD ECU is good for another +5‐10% across(ish) the powerband over the TZR, but the TZR was more linear and predictable. I need to play with the low/mid/high adjustments to see if I can smooth it out a tad (it's a little laggy ~3000-4000 RPM, then hits). Overall, this ECU convinced me I'll be able to achieve what I am looking for with this 350.
(4) Handling continues to impress. I am very glad I went with the 19-22 model to get the softer chassis and super neutral handling. I have some FCP motor mounts I'll try soon to see if handling can be improved further (I'd like to remove some front end twitch on hardpack, but it's not bad).
(5) The brakes are outstanding. They really do make me understand all the praise I've heard over the years for Brembo.
(6) I am liking the stock AER forks more and more. I'll be trying a set of AEO revalved forks soon. This should be informative. I also have KYB converted forks by ENZO I'll try before winter (likely). Both sets of forks have been coated with Forslyk --- yeah, I'm old school.
(7) I am still finding the 350 less tiring than a 450. However, until I get the 350 power better dialed, it's not my favorite engine - I still prefer 2020-2022 YZ450F and 2007-2008 CRF450R power delivery.
(8) This 350 with ECU mods is impressive. I'm very glad I tried this KTM.
(9) To expand my testing, I grabbed a 2022 KTM 450SX-F as well. This one I am riding stock except it has KYB-converted suspension and I just swapped in a TD Vortex ECU tonight after baseline stock ECU laps. More to come on this, but I needed to better understand the 350 vs. 450 potential so I decided I had to even the playing field and use the same chassis. So far, this has really helped me hone in on the 350 vs. 450 differences. One thing I will say about the KYB conversion - great bottoming resistence / wrist feel vs. the AER IMO so far. I will also say that the KTM 450 SX-F motor does not yet have the low-end torque I am seeking (I am seeking YZ450F-ish or CRF-ish character down low). For all I know I still have the gray throttle cams installed ... recall, I did say I've left them stock AND am modding the bikes incrementally - more to come. 🤣
Been working a ton, needed a mental break, took the afternoon off and rode 3 hours of singletrack at Rampart Range in Colorado today. Amazing weather, too!
Here was the configuration for the 2022 KTM 350 SX-F today - it's all stock except for below (I am still easing into the mods on purpose & keeping the bike as light as possible):
(1) FMF Titanium 4.1 RCT silencer with spark arrestor insert installed --- need for public lands, stock header
(2) Installed Acerbis skid plate for off-road (Rampart Range has some gnarly rocks)
(3) Twisted Development tuned Vortex ECU
(4) Installed 12-degree FasstCo Flexxbars + ODI V2 full-diamond grips (effing things still make my fingers go numb, but the convenience was necessary to ride spur-of-the-moment with bar swap) --- the stock bars were low and rigid for me
(5) Flo footpegs - great grip, not too hard on boots
(6) Dunlop MX53 rear, MX33 front
Ongoing Ride Report:
(1) Something in the first 30 minutes of riding today caused the fuel-delivery system to go haywire and the bike started bogging really bad on the low-end. Dangerous! Both times this behavior was triggered by sudden braking/slow-down events when I encountered other riders on the trail. In each case, normal fuel delivery would resume after ~ 5-10 minutes of riding, but man was I pissed. This type of thing is EXACTLY why I steered clear of KTMs for years --- literally. I read here on Vital about this same thing happening to a guy on the face of a jump - and he got seriously hurt as a result. I was ready to pack it up for the day and drive home, assuming things needed more investigation, but to my surprise the bike became rideable again and I seemed to be able to sort of "reset" things by doing a couple of cycles of <kill the engine with the kill switch / restart the engine>. After these 2 events, the bike ran great for the rest of the day. WTF?! I'll look into things more, change the inline fuel filter, and look for loose wires/electricalconnections, but there were never an error codes on the FI light. This very much causes you not to trust the bike, that's for sure. Has anyone here ever experienced this & know what the root cause was (i.e. and fixed it permanently)?
(2) This is hands down the best handling motocross bike I've ever ridden. I think my riding style is "generic" enough and all the work KTM put into creating a versatile, neutral, good handling machine hit the mark - BIG TIME for me. I still cannot believe how good it is in this regard - such flow-y, intuitive handling.
(3) The FMF Titanium 4.1 RCT silencer with spark arrestor insert installed was a pleasant surprise - no power loss, possibly some gain, and additional weight savings. I've got an FMF header for the 250 SX-F I'll be trying soon to get some more low-end (I hope). I'm also going to try a 53-tooth rear sprocket vs. the stock 51-tooth to get a tad more snap. Oh - I am going to try the 2-stroke air filter cage soon (and possibly the whole airboot) as well. I'm really close with the power being right where I want it, just needs more low-end snap to carry wheelies as long as needed at the drop of a hat.
(4) The Twisted Development ECU continues to impress. I've only tried 2 maps (#1 and #2 in below image) --- and they are very good. I've also since picked up a Blais Racing reprogrammed stock ECU since I was so impressed the TZR reprogrammed stock ECU. Yes, I've gone overboard on ECUs, but I honestly would have sold the bike by now had I not tried different ECUs. Without a Vortex or reprogrammed stock ECU, the power wasn't ready for prime time IMHO.
(5) The Brembo brakes - dayuuuum I still really like them. I just bought a few systems to outfit my YZ-Fs with, they are that good for my riding style (and many of you may recall my brake quest with Motostuff V2 billet calipers, Ride Engineering V2 billet calipers, Motostuff 270 and 280 rotors, different master cylinders, on and on and on ... and $$$ on).
(6) Hydraulic clutch - meh. No feel, just on/off. It works, but not a super fan. A cable clutch is the only real way to get the feel I prefer it seems.
(7) The Pankl gearbox really is amazing. Such crisp, positive shifts. The bike does indeed seem to like Motorex 10W50 best. Amsoil 10W50 doesn't shift as smooth. I'm a Maxima guy, so I hope the oil tanker of Maxima 10W50 I just bought is as good as Motorex. The TV show "Hoarders" scares me. Deeply. Enough said.
(8) The stock AER forks combined with FasstCo Flexxbars are a really good combo offroad. I really like the ability to adjust the air spring and I very much use Flexxbars as a spring to preload to lift the front end readily. Great combo, loving it, but do have Enzo KYB cartridge converted spring forks (and shock) that I will try, a set of AEO revalved AER forks that look promising, and Dialed Mfg KYB cartridge lug adapters I'll use to convert the current stock AER forks to try. But as I've said before - these stock AER forks are pretty darn good if you learn their features IMO, and especially so for off-road it seems.
(9) 3 hours of riding almost continuously did "buzz me up" with the extra KTM vibration, but it's not much worse than my experience with Hondas and Yamahas. I'm way less concerned about this than I was initially, but I still have FasstCo Impact pegs I'll be trying that have elastomeric shock/vibe isolation.
(10) The KTM seat is waaaay better than a Yamaha YZ-F seat for me, but not as plush as a Honda CRF's. No complaints at all, just really highlighting the Yamaha's thinness/harshness.
(11) I really do miss the Rekluse RadiusCX 4.0 clutch that I typically install on all bikes I own right away (not on the KTMs though ... yet). I ride the Rekluse just like I ride without it, but love the anti-stall feature and the smooth engagement. It just makes flowing easier. I am enjoying the OEM KTM clutch pack quality, but now realize how well the Rekluse units work.
(12) I've been riding this chassis without a steering stabilizer happily, but plan to add one one anyway. I like to run them on the lower(est) setting to take some of the square edge hack away in terms of jarring the bars sideways suddenly. But truly no complaints with no stabilizer on this chassis, it's quite stable AND hs excellent turning.
(13) I've heard it said you can't ride this 350F like a 450F and lug / short-shift it. This is not the case for me. I ride it like a 450F for the most part and it does very well laying down effective, suuuuuper fun torque.
(14) With the additional chain slack KTM recommends, I am getting quite a bit of frame wear just above the swingarm with the way the chain moves around more. Anyone have a good fix for this?
(15) I've always needed to go to Hammerhead Designs shift levers with +10-mm or +20-mm shift tips for my size 11 boots (Alpinestars Tech 10s and Gaerne SG-12s) on Honda and Yamahas. Not so on the KTM, the OEM shift lever is perfect.
(16) You do need to check fasteners for looseness regularly on these KTMS. I found 1 engine bracket bolt loose today + 1 handlebar clamp bolt.
(17) I really like how this engine doesn't seem to dirty/breakdown oil quickly like Yamahas (which only hold like ~ 740cc for the engine & tranny). Being able to safely run 5-10-hour oil change intervals = AWESOME! I can only get ~ 3-4 hours on Yamahas. Believe it or not - this is a big deal to me. It's the difference between getting a random ride in like today or not (largely attributable to the excellent clutch IMO). My older 2008 Honda CRF450R is good this way, too.
(18) My ride yesterday highlighted my need to do some shock work. A long series of stutter bumps is giving it fits, so need to explore here. My Yamaha shocks do this at this riding area, too, so I'm not shocked.
Summary:
Still loving the 2022 KTM 350 SX-F, but I need to get to the bottom of #1 - this is a safety issue.
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I would check through all of your electrical connections including the battery and ground and pack them with dielectric silicone grease before re-connecting them. That helps keep water out and prevents corrosion.
I've heard lots of talk about the fuel pump, fuel filters and have read (somewhere on Vital) that it is possible for the fuel pickup assembly to have a kinked hose inside the tank. I wish I could remember which discussion thread that was within... I have never had my pump out of the tank since the bike only has 17 hours on it so far.
The extra chain slack only applies to newer chassis 23-24..maybe 25..I had an intermittent stalling/ dead engine problem on my 22 using a Vortex, turned out, The Vortex EcU was bad, They gave me a new ECU. May or may not be your issue…..
I had a really weird intermittent power issue at the lowest rpm range and the spark plug cap had worked loose somehow. I suspect from washing and water getting trapped under boot and not draining. Popped it up just enough to weaken the connection.
Also, many have reported issues with the wires behind the front number plate getting pinched/cut/pulled apart.
I’d start there.
Have you changed out the plastic fuel filter in the tank for a metal one ? The plastic one cracks where the two pieces are bonded together. Available at auto parts store , Napa 3095 is what I use.
I also had this issue on a 21 350, spark plug cavity was completely packed with new england mud and sand… drain hole must have got plugged, ended up taking a long time to clean out to get plug out…new plug & cap…
Hre are the pics I forgot re: #2 and #1.
Here are the pics I forgot re: #4 and #14.
Anybody experiencing this and have a good fix? Seems like a better quality chain that's not moving all over is the best solution.
Here ^^^ are the Twisted Development maps I am currently playing with.![]()
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Interested to hear where you are at with things these days.
Will post within next few weeks.
Rode this past Sunday with G2 Ergonomics +20% quicker throttle cam and 2-stroke air filter cage (no screen for more airflow) --- still not the low-end snap I am seeking.
Talked with Chad at XPR a while yesterday, got some more tips, will share later.
Am trying some other ECU programs likely, some different gearing (same ratio, 13/51 instead of 14/53) and Rekluse TorqueDrive clutch.
2014-2018 YZ250F has low-end snap, so that may be the deciding factor me.
The 2022 KTM 450SX-F i exhibiting the same engine character, so need to figure these KTMs out a bit more.
I'd like to not open the stock engines up if I can avoid it. Turns out Yamaha power - stock - is my jam.
KTM-style power is a thing. We'll see if I can adjust it enough to enable me to get comfortable. The handling is outstanding, that's for certain.
I just realized that among my multiple Vortex ECUs for KTMs, I have 2 programmed by Twisted Development for the 2019-2022 KTM 350SX-F and they have different maps - hmmm. One was programmed more recently and has 3 "High Elevation" maps, not just 2 like the Vortex on the bike currently, so I think there's some more hope here. Additionally, I also talked to Twisted Development this week (and XPR) and I might try some additional custom mapping with them - they had ideas.
So, the next mods I will try to get more low-end snap are:
(1) Try more Twisted Development maps + trim-dial settings (leaner/richer setting for low-mid-high RPM ranges)
(2) Try Rekluse TorqueDrive clutch pack
(3) Try a little more gearing experimentation --- I am currently running Keefer's recommended gear ratio = 53/14 (3.76 rear sprocket revs/1 counter sprocket rev = 3.9% more than stock) ---> stock = 51/14 (3.64) and XPR recommends 51/13 (3.92, 7.7% more than stock) ---> So XPR's recommendation will give me even more snap. Here are some of Keefer's gearing recommendations:
2022 MX Gearing Guide *Updated* – Keefer, Inc. Tested
(4) I may try some VP T4 or U4.4 fuel just to see what extra power I can get for reference, but I'd like to steer clear of this extra logistic hassle if possible.
I will retain the +20% quicker G2 Ergonomics throttle cam so that my throttle across the Yamaha-Honda-KTM bikes feels the same from a "muscle memory" perspective (I was finding I still had the longer-throw KTM throttles open when I thought they were closed when first trying KTMs leading to some hairy moments).
I have the Vortex with XPR mapping for T4 / pump fuel. I run it with 92 ethanol free.
XPR's "Torque" map is a big change from all the others I've ridden and I suspect is the direction you'd like to go.
It's more toward the feeling of the 2018 - 2020 CRF450R, YZ450F and YZ250F.
It's not my cup of tea, but it sounds like you'll appreciate it.
I stick with the "Best Overall Power" & "Hardpack Surface / Smooth Delivery" maps depending on the conditions.
I've got a 21 350 I ride mountains and desert with. Got a vortex ECU that hasn't been tuned yet. Would you send yours to XPR or Twisted? Or someone else....?
I wonder about any quality of chain resolving the issue, bc it has to be run stupid slack.
Assuming that chain rash on the frame is on the 22 bike? My 24 does not have any rub on the frame, the front chain guard is much closer to the frame and keeps the chain away from the frame. I run RK GBMXu x ring chains on my bikes, stretch & hold up much better than standard chains… You could cut a piece of an old plastic frame guard and cut slots in plastic to zip tie to inside of frame, be nice if the frame guards wrapped all the way around to prevent this chain on frame issue…55 hrs on my 24 350sfx & chain does not touch the frame…
Pit Row
If that is the prior generation frame and I think it is, the chain slack is 3 fingers not 4, the amount of chain slack cannot be smart or stupid, only what is suggested by the engineers who designed the frame/ suspension…
I would suggest some of you guys give the G2 Throttle Tamer tube a try as well. It made a huge difference for me on my FX350. It makes everything feel smoother rolling on throttle but at like 20% it ramps back up to what feels more aggressive than stock cam.
For those corners where you are just keeping a bit of constant throttle on its a game changer for me.
My new 25 sxf350 with kyb {off my 22} is the best bike I've ever ridden
Post a reply to: 19-22 or 23-24 KTM 350SX-F --- Which to buy if you're finally going to get your "350F" fix?