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If I took the front wheel and break system off a 21 yz would the KYB forks fit into the ktm without any problems? I slid the tubes through the triple clamps and they seem to be flush
as long as the width between the ktm triple clamps, the ID where the forks go, is the same as the yz when the wheel is all bolted up on the axle. So slide the forks on the ktm, then see if the axle lines up with the yz wheel installed
Also measure the length of the KYB forks compared to the WP ones... that way you can slide them up or down in the clamps to account for any length issues assuming the other measurements are good.
BTW I did a KYB insert swap into the WP forks on this 2016 KTM 350 XCF. I was shocked at the difference. The bike was SO MUCH better it blew me away. Granted this particular KTM had the horrible 4cs forks on it (that had been reworked). I expected it to have better action but didn't expect it to turn a LOT better. The difference was amazing. Much better bike after.
No, different fork tube clamp diameters, different fork tube spread, and likely different fork lug offset and overall length. Your best bet is a KYB conversion kit to use the internals in the WP outers. Or just a MX Tech cartridge kit (or any of the many other options) in the WP outers.
KYB forks will fit if you have lower Triple clamp fitment plate between fork and triple clamp. I used just Yamaha wheel, axel, brake when running KTM with KYB forks and they were best forks those bike had. You might find it easier to get KYB insert kit from technical touch to you WP forks and everything else stays stock.
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Do you call it a KTMaha?
I've seen it done. I would personally never put up with the hazzle to do it and you'll get a worse brake with the Nissin brake vs the Brembo brake.
Save up for a proper KYB (or something else) cartridge kit. I had the kit from Technical Touch on my two recent KTMs and it was a good setup.
Worse brakes is subjective lol. Honda Master, steel line, CM46 Pads, YZ caliper > Brembo
Flame on
After years with KTM and brembo I been really happy with Yamaha Nissin brakes. I dont see any reason to go Brembos.
I have done the same thing with my husky… never had any issues… I put an oversized brake rotor on it and it was fine.. 🤙🏻🤙🏻
I ran a Yamaha front end (with Honda Nissin master cylinder) on my 2015 KTM 500 XC-W, and it was bitchin'. Brembos have a little more feel (modulation), but my Nissin brakes were soooooooo much easier to bleed, and with the 270mm rotor they had massive stopping power. The triple clamp diameters on the 2014+ Yamahas are really close to KTM, so the forks will slip into stock triples.
I originally ran pre-2014 KYBs, so I had Applied Racing make me a custom top clamp. When I upgraded to newer KYBs I had a really talented machinist buddy make me some cool spacers for the top clamp.
One other detail that you need to consider is fork lug and triple clamp offset - there are subtle changes over certain years, so it can change the trail and affect handling and turn-in. I had Applied produce a slightly different triple clamp offset to compensate for the difference, which helped. The bike handled well.
The other thing is overall fork length (as others have noted here). If I recall correctly the KYBs are a little bit shorter; if that's the case then you obviously need to run them down flush vs. the typical +5mm up that most dudes run. I played around with mine and that's pretty much the setup....
KYBs were better in every way over the 4CS junk, but my new WP XACT AER with Dick's Racing hybrid air/coil is just as good for most stuff.
Sure whatever, nobody was talking about the ultimate brake setup. I think most people would regard the OEM Brembo setup better than OEM Nissin.
But true, it's subjective. So is suspension, some (not many) wouldn't even consider this swap and just continue with the air forks.
Ignoring all the other potential issues with a swap like this, it's important to note that the fork tube diameters are very different between WP and KYB/Showa. The KYB/Showa tubes do slip right in to the KTM clamps, however, that doesn't mean it's correct!
The upper clamp diameter is 53.85mm on a KYB/Showa and 54mm on WP. That's not huge, and the top clamp doesn't matter nearly as much as the bottom, so you can get away with this, but it's still not right and you'll get less clamping force on the tube.
The lower clamp diameter is 59.25 on KYB/Showa and 60 on WP. That 0.75mm may not sound like much, but that's absolutely massive if you're after a proper fit. To put it in perspective, our tolerance on fork tube bore diameters is +/- .025mm. Or 30x less than that difference! While the clamps will hold the KYB/Showa tubes, it won't hold them well, they'll be far more likely to slip, and the clamps will distort the bore of the tube and cause it to be really harsh.
The right fix is to either get the correct clamps for the fork tube diameter (we make them) or to use a shim (I think Technical Touch has them).
You're not wrong...KYB inserts (or just properly valved and sprung OEM stuff) is definitely better. My Applied setup was machined to the actual KYB size, so the sizing issue was avoided.
But I know a few people that just run 'em in stock KTM clamps....
On a (sort of) related note, I rode with my new coil/air spring hybrid setup back-to-back with some Cone Valve forks set up for my weight, and the revalved stock stuff was 10x better...for my type of riding (very techy enduro, lots of rocks, occasionally faster desert stuff) I have no idea why anyone would want CVs over KYB or well-tuned WP oem stuff....
That or a KawasakTM.
Ready to race, Starting…….now
How about KTMsaki?
Katamaha
Pit Row
After you fix the fork and shock. )
Certainly KTM does a great job with their bikes. I love the model options, engine sizes etc. And the motor components are top notch. But, imo, the suspension components are not great. When I first pulled a WP shock apart I thought to myself there is some nice machine work in here. But I found the shock bodies wear quickly.... Not the best piston design (meaning flow) and I'm not a fan of the IFP vs bladder kits. Meaning give me a bladder. The plastic shock spring collar. Really? Seriously?
And the forks.... I have not played with the latest gen Air forks... but that 4cs fork - especially the 2016 ver with no bottom out stuff (removed that was in the earlier years)... not a great showing.
The bikes come with the highest retail price too. WP can produce really good suspension components. They can do better for the money we pay for the bikes. Heck, simply put the 6500 spring fork kit in stock and call it a day. We'll deal with the shock/linkage ... valving etc.
I'm also not yet discussing the rear shock linkage choice to allow a lighter weight spring to be spec'd vs performance. Those that have dug into this and changed it...know exactly what I'm talking about.
Get some this sheet metal and make a shim for the lower triple clamps. I did that and it worked. I installed forks, wheel, and brakes from a 2020 YZ250f to a 2020 350SXF. The forks felt good and I had more grip in the corners. It did handle a bit different. It wanted to stand up in the corners but I adjusted my riding to compensate for that.
Be aware. 2 stroke forks will require machining of the top clamp. Currently recognizing my dumb assness - 250 2 stroke forks have a 1.0mm+ larger OD than the ID of the Austrian top clamp 😩
> I'm also not yet discussing the rear shock linkage choice to allow a lighter weight spring to be spec'd vs performance. Those that have dug into this and changed it...know exactly what I'm talking about.
What do you mean by this?
Full set of KYB sss forks on my 2022 350. Not a spring conversion kit. They work amazing and no screwing with air pressure before each ride
Did you just bolt up the KYB forks with no other changes? If so, it's a case of just because you can, does not mean you should... Ignoring the other issues, the lower triple clamp being a 60 mm diameter on a 59.25 mm diameter fork is really bad. That's .75 mm difference in diameter. It's no longer a round on round clamping situation; it's distorting the fork tube and not griping it very well either. At the very least you should run a shim on that.
I would NEVER attempt this with my lack of mechanical skills. I bought this bike from a former factory mechanic who built it for himself, and yes it does have shims. He did a few mods to the clamps/front brake. He said if I wasn’t happy with them I could bring it back and he’d change it out to the WP’s in an hour or so. I absolutely love them. I had the WP’s on a XC-F and didn’t like the feel going into/out of corners with the air forks
Ah, that's much more reasonable then. Might want to measure overall fork lengths and lug offset to be sure you're at the same/similar geometry to the WP forks.
Why? He already said he liked it better than the stock geometry on his other bike.
He's welcome to do whatever he wants, really! But stock geometry on that bike is quite good. Knowing where he is now vs. stock gives him an idea of what's changed and whether or not that's really a good thing. Plus his comparison is to an XC-F; not terrible, but not exactly apples to apples. 18 vs 19 inch rear wheel, etc. all play a part in how it will ride.
And straying too far from the stock geometry on that generation of KTM is not likely to yield great results. Maybe it feels good simply because the fork is better, but it's leaving some performance on the table he doesn't realize since there's no reference to what has actually changed geometrically? You don't know unless you measure it!
You gotta realize most of us aren't taking exact measurements every time we ride. We ride the thing, we make a few changes here and there, and eventually pick up a new ride which is completely different in every way -- just like him going from his 18" wheeled bike to his used KYB-equipped bike.
I’ve put a set of 2008 kx450 kybs on my ktm last year. I had to shim the bottom clamps ever so slightly. Worked perfect though! I practiced one time on it before sending it out to the regional. I felt 1000 times more comfortable with the kybs Ieven though they weren’t setup for the ktm.
The second thing I did was put the WP upper tubes on the kyb lowers with all the kyb internals. The kyb fork where 5mm shorter then the WP’s. So I did have to compensate for it in the rear shock. WMR has been doing my valving setup. Suspension tech Eddy is pretty good, and listen to what a rider has to say with feed back.
With both setups you have to use the kx/Yz front wheel with axle and spacers. Also have to use the the complete nissin caliper and hanger. Luxon said he was going to make some us here on the from hangers, but never did. You can buy the brembo setup. Have to buy the whole caliper from them though to get the hanger compatible for the kyb fork. On the Shercos, they use the ktm hanger. They changed the bolt pattern on the fork lug, so can’t use it.
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