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So I'm finally getting into the engine of my bike. Was looking to do a CP piston w/ DLC pin matched with a Carillo rod.
Tokyo mods has this on their site and wanted to confirm fitment.
https://tokyomods.com/shop/engine-parts/engine-parts-pistons/cp-carrill…
Based on the link, it appears to be a long rod and that's what I'm going for.
Now my question is TM only lists it to fit up to 2015 model year, yet every manufacturer (including OEM) shows the same part#s for bike 2009-2017/2018.
This will work, right?
I punched the number into CP-Carillo's site and it appears to be the same. Just wanted to confirm.
Second question, what would a set of PC cams do for the bike? They were pretty vague when I called, so I'm curious if anyone has first hand experience with these?
Would a set of Hot Cams Stages 2 give a better power spread, maybe just keep it simple and stick a 2012 intake cam? Looking for more power but I want it spread and not concentrated into any one particular area.
Last question: Most likely going to do a set of valve springs as well. From a pure reliability standpoint... stick with stock valves or go Del West flat face with fresh oem seats?
If it matters, I'm going to send the crank off to get the rod installed after she's balanced and polished, probably going to get the transmission assembly cryo'd and REM finished.
Thanks, gents.
Tokyo mods has this on their site and wanted to confirm fitment.
https://tokyomods.com/shop/engine-parts/engine-parts-pistons/cp-carrill…
Based on the link, it appears to be a long rod and that's what I'm going for.
Now my question is TM only lists it to fit up to 2015 model year, yet every manufacturer (including OEM) shows the same part#s for bike 2009-2017/2018.
This will work, right?
I punched the number into CP-Carillo's site and it appears to be the same. Just wanted to confirm.
Second question, what would a set of PC cams do for the bike? They were pretty vague when I called, so I'm curious if anyone has first hand experience with these?
Would a set of Hot Cams Stages 2 give a better power spread, maybe just keep it simple and stick a 2012 intake cam? Looking for more power but I want it spread and not concentrated into any one particular area.
Last question: Most likely going to do a set of valve springs as well. From a pure reliability standpoint... stick with stock valves or go Del West flat face with fresh oem seats?
If it matters, I'm going to send the crank off to get the rod installed after she's balanced and polished, probably going to get the transmission assembly cryo'd and REM finished.
Thanks, gents.
Just I’m never opposed to a second opinion on things. I made this because I’m mostly curious about the cams and just kind of threw the piston/rod question in there.
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As far as mapping, just going to have Twisted Development do a few maps to take any hits or dips out of delivery and take out some of the decompression braking.
I get most people don’t want more power out of a 450, I’m not one of those people.
That’s kind of why I was asking about the cams and if they spread more power everywhere or if they would screw me by putting the power more in a particular area.
Worked fine but I think the JE ran a bit stronger.
I would look into a remap or a Vortex before bothering with cams. TM can help you there also.
The stock valves are quite good..
Big fan of these bikes. Probably the most performance per dollar in the sport right now.
I only mentioned long rods because they supposedly put less load angle on the piston, which to me = less stress. Being that I’m bumping the compression, it didn’t seem like a bad thing to consider since I’m dropping the money on a forged rod regardless.
So stock valves and seats should be ok with stiffer valve springs? I would only do the springs if I don’t stick with stock or stock + ‘12 intake.
I agree though. I LOVE this motor, just would like more power everywhere.
My heart tells me cams would compliment everything else, my brain tells me I doubt I’d get the most out of it without porting the head.
Cams can add power across the board but if i had to guess not so much without porting and other mods.
I guess in terms of cams, the bigger question is: how do PC and HC Stage 2s compare to a ‘12 intake cam with oem exhaust?
HC is a very slight increase over stock and PC would be like a stage 2.5 HC. You would not even notice the '12 cam IMHO.
I like hearing opinions on stuff like that, it’d be a very expensive mistake if I didn’t like them.
I had a ‘12 cam in my 2015 but the previous owner installed it so I didn’t have a stock feel comparison like I would with this.
I don't see these engines needing more cam for 99.5% of riders. The power difference between years comes more down to intake/exhaust and ECU. A vortex from TD will do more than cams and the bike needs remapped bone stock.
On my ‘18 I did a PC T-6 full system and a remap from Tokyo Mods-otherwise stock. The pipe and remap totally filled in the soft spots, and that’s with a pump gas tune. I’m guessing a race fuel tune would see even bigger gains.
Between the pipe and remap, I can’t see wanting anything more. I also short-shift and use the bottom end torque. I never found the bike lacking (only my own skill, lol).
One key is to pull the end cap restriction that comes on the T-6 (not sure on the Ti-6)...night and day difference in pull off the bottom.
Pit Row
I would not do the long rod.
As far as the valve train, if the del west caves are in the budget, do them, they are really good. But if you don’t do any porting, I’m afraid it would be for nothing.
In the modern bikes, a lot of power cam be made in the head. Just depends on what you want to do. I would recommend calling your preferred engine builder and letting them know what you’re looking for. They can and will give you what you want.
Despite the downvotes that don’t want to add to the conversation, I do appreciate the info you guys are giving and I’m thankful for it 👍👍👍
It’s borderline retarded what I’m going to be putting into this thing but it’s something I’ve always wanted to do.
Once everything is 100%, I’ll do up a thread in the bike build section👍
To everyone who chimed in with advice, thank you very much for your input.
The reason they don't is because the longer rod requires the pin to be moved higher in the piston. The reduction in compression height (the distance from the centerline of the pin to the top of the piston) is reduced. This necessitates at best the ring pack is squished even closer together ( adding more possibility of piston rock) or getting the pin up into the oil ring allowing less support to the oil ring and less chance of the oil ring to maintain control. The additional dwell time gives a miniscule change in power production that is barely even measurable.
Rod length/rod ratio has been argued ad nausem in the hot rod world for years and the final word is that it dosent really matter.
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