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Heck, I only use 2 gears after the start. I hate shifting and never really saw the point in rev'ing a 4 stroke to the moon. If I can go the same speed but a gear higher (and the suspension works better at low rev's) what does it matter? Not to mention, I change my oil on my bike way less than the average person. Every 30+ hours on my FE350. It's a win win all the way around.
I wish the mfg's would go back to experimenting with less gears on their showroom bikes. 6 speeds are so unnecessary.
(I cant believe a serious discussion came out of this ridiculous thread)
The original KX450F was a four-speed, as was the KTM 450SX-F for a while. The 450SX-F in Europe currently has a four as well.
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Dude, you're talking about a speedometer for a motocross bike. Nothing could be more pointless. How do you measure mph? Rotation of the front or rear tire? How is that information useful given how often you break traction on a motocross bike?
Who said velocity must be measured at the wheels? Any ways wheel velocity is known as angular velocity. U guys are falling on your faces trying to disprove speedos
All the evidence we need to "disprove" the need for speedos in motocross is to look at what people use (or don't use). If there really was a need for one, you'd see them everywhere. By your own admission, you couldn't find one for sale at the time that you made this thread. What does that tell you?
You're falling on your face trying to prove that speedos are needed or beneficial. I'm pretty sure that burden of proof falls on you.
Explain that shit
Can we stop saying speedo
PS, Someone call the Hoffman crew, this thread is GOLD.
btw, on these 3 and 4 speed gearboxes, where is neutral? I'd hate to have to shift thru neutral so many times, and you can't put it at the bottom...or can you?
Im not sure the reason they did it (performance or convenience) or if it is some high tech that would be overkill for a dirtbike. But it can be done.
Pit Row
https://youtu.be/t5GMIn6BDbk
Now you are ready to give Robby Maddison some competition ... Hey, Red Bull might sponsor you. As you can see on that picture, just make sure that you eliminate any vibration on the bike so you don't have a false reading of your speed.
I think if you were wanting to use it for that purpose, you would be better off with a light system for letting you know what gear your in. But it seems that you're looking to use technology to replace practice induced skill.
You know what they say,
Amateurs practice till they get it right
Pros practice till they can't do it wrong
TM
Speed is relative weather you are seat bouncing or using any other technic he was implying
Sorry, but some shit is just stupid.
1. Roll the face of the jump a few times to get a FEEL for the angle, kicks/lips.
2. Under jump the landing to a safe spot getting a feel for the distance and more importantly speed in the run up to the jump. For example on a double you should be landing comfortably and consistently before the back side of the landing, table tops 3/4's of the way along. These landings will be harder than typically coming up short (safe though) but no worse than over jumping to the base of the landing as you will be carrying a lot more forward momentum if you over jump.
3. Grow a pair and carry you speed into the jump and all the way off the face. Make sure you get out of the corner or off of the previous jump and accelerate up to a speed that you FEEL will take you that extra 20-30ft to the sweet spot or even base of the landing.
4. If its not enough speed on say a double and you are going to case it, land with the power on and drive down through the landing under acceleration. Same goes for coming short on a tabletop. If you have done steps 1 & 2 and you can't gauge the additional speed or pre loading suspension for example you are not ready to even attempt the jump.
Speed in mph/kmh is useless to you. You would need to calculate difference in rider weights, how the rider soaks up or doesn't soak up the face of the jump with his/her legs, hit the exact same line (different lines can throw you long or short depending on kickers/worn out the lip is).
If you need to gauge the speed then ride beside a fast rider on the approach to the jump. Because typically most fast riders will have the speed to clear the jump way before the take off and are only maintaining speed on the last 30-40ft. If they are seat bouncing or ringing the neck out of the bike then it is a difficult jump to clear or needs a wider longer run up to approach safely. Now back to the speed. Because rider A is carrying X speed into the face doesn't mean to say you will require the same speed as per differences above.
What you also have to learn is the sound of the good riders leaving the face. Are they maintaining a steady throttle, accelerating moderately or hard. Thats where the old Braaaaaap discussions come in the pits for most experienced riders. A quick description of noise to most EXPERIENCED riders is enough to let them know how to attack or not attack a jump face.
Post a reply to: I would like a handle bar mounted speedometer