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3/25/2019
Location
Port Isabel, TX, USA
I've been rear brake dragging since the late 90s and I'm not stopping. Has anyone used the motostuff titanium piston? I'm considering cutting little crown vents in the piston and getting some insulation for the rear pads. Does anyone know of a good rear brake insulation?
Does anyone know of a brake pad brand that comes with the little metal clips that go on the back and insultion? The OEM pads do not include any insulation
What bike are we talking here?
Adding rear brake fluid reservoir extension solved the issue with my KTM's.
By crown vents, do you mean this?
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More fluid, more air and isolate the heat from the caliper/fluid.
Some fluids are a lot more tolerant to heat than others, so pick a super high quality one and change it often.
The metal plates will conduct heat. When I buy genuine Nissin pad sets they come with a sort of grey kevlar looking heat shield that goes between the metal plate and the pad. Those are the things to look out for
Yeah
RBF600 along with proper adjustment and fluid quantity solved all my problems when I was burning up my KTM rear brakes. Fill just below the inscribed line in the M/C. Those fluid extenders didn’t do much if anything in my experience, the one off the master cylinder had my brake line practically resting on my exhaust so I’m sure that wasn’t going to help either.
Yup 600 or even 660. The brake line is already very close to the exhaust on most Austrian bikes and there have actually been people hurt in crashes when the line got melted and they had no brake at the worst moment. Also, on Austrian bikes, you have to be very careful with the double pedal adjusters, especially if you are prone to dragging or overheating. This is unique compared to the Japanese bikes that do not have an independent pedal position adjuster. Basically, if you have the adjuster on the mc adjusted pretty far in and then you also take up a bunch of the throw by running the position adjuster in, you will lose throw as the fluid heats up and get a dragging brake that will overheat and boil very easily.
Spot on. Basically exactly what a GNCC KTM mechanic walked me through. The double adjustment was a PITA to figure out at first, but it’s pretty cool once you figure it out. I also went to the FASST return spring kit and that was $20 well spent.
That is a pic of the piston that I modified on my CR 250 build. It makes a big difference.
Remember the ovr sized caliper made by Braking ? For the 02+ cr,s . Bigger pads & cooling etc. I had a resivore slotted extension bolt on. Quite a bit bigger it worked. Would it help if you blasted some of the casting off the caliper ? Of wire brushed it. Weld some fins on .
Same story as you, since the 90s. Rbf660 and stock pads or ebc 40 something or other pads (can't recall exactly off the top of my head) fixed my problems.
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