Motostuff 280mm front disk

That's a serious attempt at unsprung weight reduction. Do you have an estimate of a total compared to stock?

That "Moto Stuff" rotor looks a lot like my "CRF Stuff" rotor, I wonder if it's the same folks. You should be happy
with that 280mm, I'm running the 270mm version on my bikes and it's more than enough.

dogger

Caliper is badass!

MTEK,

I am doing the exact same thing with my CRF450 re weight loss. I love the feel of the Ride Engineering brake caliper with the same Moto Stuff (CRF Stuff) 280mm rotor, but I only saved .022lbs over the light CRF caliper.

I much weight loss did you get with the TCR wheels alone? I see you have the L-TX rims but which spokes did you go with?

Are you concerned about the front end twist claimed by MXA with the titanium front axle? Are you also using a titanium swing arm pivot? These are two areas I had been hesitant to use the flexier titanium.

mike

Mettec stopped selling the titanium caliper pins because they said they could not handle the wear.

Was that 1.1 pounds per wheel? I would be thrilled if I could get half that per wheel. TCR has the lightest hubs out there, I think.

Titanium bleeder nipple? I would be worried about leaks and wear after a few bleeds.

Sometimes you don't have to be fast to notice some of these things.

mike

I run the DLC coated Ti pins as well. The DLC reduces friction over the steel pin and allows the caliper to function better.
The DLC also reduces wear to the same or better levels as the OE pin.

I don't think anybody markets a lighter hub right now than TCR, and the Dirtstar LT-X is a real strong rim. In comparison,
Team Honda runs the basic Dirtstar on their bikes.

IMO, the best things about running the DID/TCR wheel combo is you get a stronger but lighter wheel set (best of both
worlds), and unlike any other aftermarket hub, you can still use all the OE bearings, seals and spacers - what's not to like.

dogger

What's your opinion on the A kit with performance, getting it setup for you etc?

You're comparing a 280mm to a 270mm. The only other 280mm I am aware of is the EBC unit and I suspect that is the one MotoStuff was referring to.

Here's the actual quote from their site:

"Trick lightweight design of the Moto Stuff Blade System weighs only 544 grams (19.2 oz) and looks like nothing else on the market. Nearly a full pound lighter than inferior floating designs.The Blade system is 40% lighter than any other 280mm system. "

You came out at 520g which is less than the 544g they state.

I have the 280 on my bike and the stopping power is pretty ludicrous. I honestly think the 270 would be a better overall rotor and you could have lost even more weight going with the 270.

There is a reason they make rotors float. If you're not concerned with performance you could remove it completely and save a lot of weight.

Geico Honda should hire you as a consultant, clearly they don't know what's good for them either.

Tokyo Tiddler let me know when you're ready for a Ti front axle for your CRF, I have one here collecting dust that won't work with my Sölva forks and I'll make you a great deal on it.

Does TCR do 32 spoke wheels? Your best bet might be to have your stock hubs lathed down for a machined finish, OEM spokes with aluminum nipples laced to LTX or Takasago's. 8 extra spokes weigh more than you might think.

My post was more directed towards TT, where his stock Honda hubs are 32-spoke and super light to begin with. No aftermarket hub will be even close to as light if they require 4 extra spokes.

You could save weight by running 32spoke Honda wheels on your RMZ, but that could either be very easy or way too much effort to make it work. The front should be easy.

Hi Guys,
I just wanted to make a couple of quick comments for clarification.

It's taken me many years to build the reputation of CRF STUFF (now MOTO STUFF) and gain the trust and respect of the moto community and the last thing I want to have happen is to become known for spreading misleading information! The 280mm kit we compared our kit to is probably the most popular kit on the market due to it's low price and widespread availability. That makes it an easy target as as we want to gain some traction in that market by educating those riders about the pros and cons of the two designs, however that kit is not really a direct competitor to us in regards to performance etc, so I can appreciate Mteks points.



The pros and cons of floating vs non floating (in our opinion!). In a nutshell, floating brakes were developed for road racing applications where it's possible to develop a tremendous amount of heat in the rotor due to the high speeds, weight of the bike and the high coefficient of friction that pavement offers compared to dirt. To prevent warping of the swept rotor surface (which would cause a dangerous reduction in braking power), the floating design allows the outer portion of the rotor to expand and contract with minimal heat distortion / warping.

For most off road MX and SX applications that level of heat generation is never reached, so warping is not a concern, even at the highest level of the sport. Also, the mechanical button fasteners (large rivets) that connect the outer wear ring to the inner spokes of the rotor are problematic. In the harsh off road environment, abrasive dirt and debris gets in the floating mating surfaces and rapidly begins to wear the surfaces resulting in excessive play. The effect is compounding as well, the more it wears the faster it wears. Every time the brakes are applied, the increased play allows great impact between the two surfaces and this is felt as a slight delay in brake application and can also be heard as a metallic clicking.

We have a popular floating brake rotor that was sent to us by a top national pro with approximately 20 hours of use on his practice bike. The button rivets that are used to hold the rotor together have worn through and are very near failing even though the rotor surface shows very little wear. This type of failure could be catastrophic if the rotor parted from the inner hub / spoke assy (which it was about to do).

Here's a short video showing the rotor mentioned above:


Granted this can be avoided with routine inspection and possibly the manufacturers of floating rotors for off road use do include such warnings. Another important point is that street bikes with floating rotors have fixed calipers, the rotor handles the necessary float to allow for slight radial run out, heat induced warping etc. Modern off road bikes have fixed rotors with floating calipers that deal with this. When you combine floating rotors with floating calipers, you end up with an excessive amount of "float". In other words, every time you apply the brakes, the caliper float and the rotor float have to be taken up before any braking occurs. This is experienced as inconsistent response at the brake lever.

Lastly, our 280mm oversize kit is 40% lighter (nearly a pound lighter) than popular floating designs for off road use. Your brakes are unsprung weight, so it's even more important to keep them as light as possible. Why?
MXA Article- Understanding Unsprung Weight

PS- Mtek, thanks for posting the pics and details of your bike build, very nice and thanks for the kind words!

Regards,

Scott Hart
MOTO STUFF
"Trick Stuff for the Greatest Dirt Bikes on Earth!

Really good customer service. He sent me a text today to confirm my order and to make sure what I ordered was correct because I ordered parts for two different bikes. Makes you feel good when you get response back from a company and they try to help you out...