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Check all of the above first, but It sure sounds like something Is holding the slide up. Are you using the original carb and slide and cable holder or something else ?

" The bike revs up perfectly fine, no bogs, sounds very healthy. When letting off the throttle the bikes dips down to what would be the correct idle speed, but after 3-8 seconds it dips down way too low and it dies." This condition you describe is not a hanging idle. This is the opposite of a hanging idle. A hanging idle is when the bike is hesitant to return down to the proper idle speed and, instead, the idle "hangs" higher than it should, and then it won't die. It will sit there idling at a high idle, which...

My KTM with yz250 carb was running like shit. Turns out the cap to the carb that holds the slide and throttle cable had come loose. Must've gotten distracted in the garage and didn't tighten it down fully. Check your hose clamps that hold the carb to the airbox and reed cage as well. Might get you a propane torch from home depot and apply some gas to various places and see if it revs up.

Try blowing compressed air through this hole. Then clean/spray it with suspension cleaner or contact cleaner. Usually solves the problem when that happens.

No problem. Hopefully you can solve your issue. There will be thread locking compound (like Loc-Tite) on the threads... The way suspension shops remove a clevis is to clamp the rod in a vise using a special set of round soft-jaws sized for the rod. If you have flat jaws in your vise (not serrated) you can hold the aluminum clevis and loosen the lock nut. In a pinch, the method below works to remove the rod (it's better to use the soft jaws). Run the clevis lock-nut up toward the piston until it stops. Use a 17mm wrench on...

Yep had the same issue as well a while back and reached out to a suspension tech, he had me push the needle down and run a small piece of safety wire through the holes on the shaft to hold it in place open until bleeding was done make sure the wire was long enough to pull out when installed. Worked like a charm and functioned fine once buttoned up and re-charged. I think I let the N2 out prior to backing clickers off or something and stated that could cause the issue… I think…was years ago but the wire...

I’ve run into this problem before. Try banging the clevis end vertically on a block of wood. This has always worked for me.

If you have the tools, you can remove the clevis and check out the parts. It's a pretty simple setup. There's a rod with the steel needle tip and there's a bushing at the bottom of the shaft with an o-ring and a plastic backer-ring. You can push the rod out of the shock shaft after you remove the clevis. It's possible that your o-ring is bad and the clevis is full of oil. If there's oil in the clevis, it will hydraulically lock out the rod. If that's the case, pop the o-ring out of the shaft with a...

Short of us guessing or giving anecdotal experience, any machinist or builder is going to tell you there is only 1 sure way to know. Disassemble and measure the bearings and bores to determine if you still have the correct interference fit. Pay extra attention to the left side case. The YZ is already known for being prone to cracking around the bearing pocket on that side.

You will most likely be okay but if you are worried, take them back out and use green bearing retainer loctite and put them back in place. If it is that bad, you can stake the bore where the bearings go. I've used the green loctite on lots of older cases where the bores become oversize

That's a safe call. I've never been mad at myself for being too thorough with my bike work.