The rmz looks sick, is affordable, comes with a spring fork and strong is reliable from what I’ve hard - I like it although I’m a hard core 250 smoker.

The clamps don’t “swap out” between those two bikes.

Check your local shirt/jersey printing store. The moto companies over charge for the same product.

I’d go yz with engine work. The chassis and suspension makes it easier to ride fast.

If it’s not body positioning, then it’s increasing your high speed compression adjusted on the shock (big nut on rear shock turned clockwise).

Yamaha. The kawi will fall apart considerably faster.

May need a different banjo bolt with 2 holes in it. I could not get my 13sx front brake to bleed. The ktms used to only have 1 hole in the banjo bolt vs 2 on the Japanese bikes, making it difficult to get air out.

We want what we don’t have. In my experience of switching bikes regularly, getting a new bike doesn’t solve the problem. There is most likely a larger problem at hand. I’m on year 3 of my yz250 and have no intention of getting anew bike.

The motor still looks to be tilting the wrong direction.

Filing your stock pegs will wear your boot soles considerably faster than aftermarket pegs (such as raptor or pro pegs, which I feel are the best on the market) because the stock pegs have less teeth to disperse the weight.

Buddy of mine just paid 8800 otd for a 2020 fc450 in illinois

After 139 pages, I’m not convinced to purchase a kx450 unless I’m going to get rid of it at 45 hours.

His libido is probably crushed.

Saw a guy at the track who had nothing but problems with his. Better off sticking to stock, buying the torq drive, or getting a Hinson.

For me, standard 105 sag and 5-7 mm fork height. They don’t like to turn with less than 5mm.

Don’t do it.

Nope. Run any old 93 octane and you’ll be just fine.

There is nothing worse than C class kids out there scrubbing everything. C class is for beginners. If you can clear all of the jumps then move to B class.

Yamaha > ktm